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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up an old bike with potential. Like many...I've got high hopes of restoring this bike. Going to be an incredible learning experience but here's what I am starting with:




Not sure why the rear shocks were spray painted brown (yes, spray painted) but I just loved the potential of this thing!

Also, I was told that it was a 1970 model. Any way to tell for sure?
 

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Sensei
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1970 FRAME serial number would be between CB450-4000001 and CB450-4100000.....
1971's started CB450-4100001......
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice! It's def. a 1970.

Upon an afternoon of cleaning off cobwebs under the seat...visual inspection points me to a ton of messy wires and missing electrics. While this is my first bike and first project, it hasn't been to terribly difficult to see what might be causing this thing to stay cold. Turning the key, grabbing that clutch and kick starting it hasn't even made whisper.

Can't wait to dig in deeper and find out what piece of the puzzle is missing.

Thanks for the welcome here, I've got my hands full...a lot of mistakes to be made....and a lot of learning to do. :)

btw - how are those Clymer maintenance manuals? I'm looking for a resource to guide me in addition to Google and here.
 

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The kicker works through the clutch...IF you pull the clutch lever it only spins the transmission, not the crankshaft....... Bike in neutral (or take drive chain off), key on, "kill" to run, choke on, a bit of fuel, etc... it should at least burp over (battery MUST be good).......I do recommend an oil change, new plugs and check valves and timing prior to attempting running....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I made a discovery that has me understanding why this bike might have been dished aside by it's previous owners. :)

The shifting pedal has been completely snapped off at the base. Yeah you read that correctly! What extends now is a mere nub of twisted metal. I'll post some pictures of my find as soon as I am able. Further more, my true newb colors have been shown. Any veteran would have immediately discovered it was missing. Basically my bike is stuck in neutral.

So now, I've got to figure out how to get that bad boy out and get a replacement in.

I am not quite frustrated yet in these beginning stages...more enjoying the discovery and the challenge. Does this attitude also show my newbness? ha!
 

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Don't know if the 450 is the same, but on my 360 you have to split the lower crankcase to get that shaft out. Hopefully a 450 expert on here has more insight and that isn't the case. That's a huge job.
 

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Pull off right crankcase cover (drain oil first), remove oil filter, then oil pump and clutch.
Remove the circlip and special washer from the pedal side of the shift shaft.
Disengage the articulated arm at the end of the shift shaft from the shift drum, and the shift shaft should pull out easily from the rider's right side.

If the end is too buggered to pull through the cases, you'll have to pull the engine and split the cases.
 

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tbpmusic said:
Pull off right crankcase cover (drain oil first), remove oil filter, then oil pump and clutch.
Remove the circlip and special washer from the pedal side of the shift shaft.
Disengage the articulated arm at the end of the shift shaft from the shift drum, and the shift shaft should pull out easily from the rider's right side.

If the end is too buggered to pull through the cases, you'll have to pull the engine and split the cases.
Just a thought Bill and I might be way off here. If the end is too buggered to get through the case, couldn't he just cut the bad end off the shaft before he pulled it out? If it's that messed up he probably needs another shaft anyway and that way he wouldn't need to split the cases.

CB450JAM, it would be interesting to see some pictures of how the end of the shaft looks.
 

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Znabb said:
[Just a thought Bill and I might be way off here. If the end is too buggered to get through the case, couldn't he just cut the bad end off the shaft before he pulled it out? If it's that messed up he probably needs another shaft anyway and that way he wouldn't need to split the cases.
Sure, as long as you can get q good clean cut and nothing is bent.
It's not exactly in a spot where you can get a clean shot at it though............
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey guys -

My work has had the best of me since my last few posts. Haven't had much energy to poke around the treasure find in my garage. Finally able to respond to all the help here.

Here's what I am up against early on - a lot, a lot and a lot of cleaning. Ready to wear out several wire brushes (cleaning tips welcome of course.) This sucker is FILTHY!

However, here's the boogered up shift rod seen once I was able to remove the drive chain cover.







So we think this should be removed from the other side of the bike?

On another note, when I removed the cover, made a fun discovery. I'll be adding the following to my list of many replacement parts:

+1 JOINT, CLUTCH CABLE #22875-283-000 (It was completely stripped out inside.)

This bike has been abused no more!
 

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When you pull the shifter shaft let me know as I would like to see pix from right side with the clutch and oil filter installed. I want to try and reset my shifter spring with just pulling the cover if possible. Also let me know if you try and get off the stupid chain oiler on the front sprocket. Mine is locked on tight and wondered if it has a reverse thread. Hang in there!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
With the weather finally warming up here in central VA...i spend a good bit out with the bike. Taking the tarp off of it felt so good guys!

Back to the Gear Shift Spindle, any suggestions on where to find that sucker? So far it's looking like an ebay waiting game. Found on on there now but it's an incorrect year.

There are plenty other things to work on with this one while I wait I suppose.
 

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ANY 5-speed shift shaft (spindle) will fit and work.....
 

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Follow Bill's sequence of operations and the job will not be that tough.

Here are some pictures to help identify what you need to do.

Here is the shaft (at the bottom of the picture) with the clutch removed.



While you have this part off it would be a good time to check the stop rollers that you see in this picture. If you have significant lateral play you might want to think about TRYING to find a replacement (tough to do) or somehow repairing what you have. A couple of us have rebuilt them but it takes a little more work and skill than what is usually required on these bikes.



In this picture you can see the oil pump held in with two bolts under the crankshaft. The oil pump comes off as a unit with the clutch hub.



And here is a picture with the filter installed. Of course you'll need the correct tool to get the nut off in order to remove the oil filter.



Each step by itself is not tough there is just a half dozen steps or so to get to the end result of removing the shift shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This is over the top and helpful! Thank you all!

I'll try to post pictures once the new spindle is in.

Mine machine ain't near as clean as the photos above! I've got to get to cleaning it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Any tips on removing that stubborn lock nut? I've got the specialty tool... the sucker won't budge.

I've got my bike stripped down to exactly this part....gasket looks good, clutch looks good...just can't get that oil filter free.



I was surprised to see that this side of the bike is dynamically more clean than the other when pulling off the side cover...

I've got the nut soaked with penetrating oil in hopes it will free up a enough for me to get it loose.
 

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CB450JAM said:
Any tips on removing that stubborn lock nut? I've got the specialty tool... the sucker won't budge. Did you fold down the tabs on the locking washer?

I've got my bike stripped down to exactly this part....gasket looks good, clutch looks good...just can't get that oil filter free.



I was surprised to see that this side of the bike is dynamically more clean than the other when pulling off the side cover...

I've got the nut soaked with penetrating oil in hopes it will free up a enough for me to get it loose. ( See above.... That won't work....)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yup...tabs are disengaged as far as I can tell. I am thinking i just need a little more muscle...but definetly don't want to over do it. :/ hmmm
 

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They are usually quite tight.... Sudden impact/rotation will get it......Wedge the primary gears....
 
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