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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I redid my rear fender so needed a new seat and new mounting method for the seat. I'm into a green sparkly theme on this bike so I thought I would first show you the full picture.



The paint is extremely sparkly which you can't really see in this pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So here is what I did. I bought a seat pan off E-bay. Came with the hinge. Then I had to figure out how to attach it. I didn't want to show off all the wiring either so I wanted something that would hide that. Don't have a welder and couldn't haul the bike into someone. So I had to figure out another way.

First I cut sort of a triangular piece that followed the wishbone of the frame. You can see it powder coated here.



If you look closely at the top of the picture, you can also see a little piece about an inch wide that is welded sort of ninety degrees at the back. That will be important later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For the seat pan itself, I got it off E-bay for $40. I then got some bungs from the Bung King. These are the handlebar spuds, the longest he had. I used a grinder to fit them to the seat pan as the pan is curved. I had a great old guy with the ultimate bike man-cave to weld them on. I also drilled holes for the bracket to fit on. When I had him weld the bungs on, I also had him weld down the screws to hold the bracket because once I had the seat covered, they would be inaccessible.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This picture shows the one inch piece welded on the edge of the triangular piece. I drilled two holes in this piece and also welded two nuts onto it. You can see the holes here.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here you can see all the pieces assembled. On the right, you can see the bungs and how they thread to the triangular piece. On the left, you can see the regular bracket that everyone uses with a regular sprung seat.


 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The one inch piece welded to the triangular piece fits next to the cross brace in the frame. I drilled holes in it and then set the triangular piece against it. it then threads from next to the rear fender. I had to drop the fender to get the screws in. To reach into the frame tube, I had to take out the storage box. Personally I like it better without it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
With the bungs I got, the seat just clears the fender by less than an inch. But it looks good and tight with the fender. The only thing I should have done is put a little bit of rubber between the bolts and the seat. It is a bit "buzzy." But it does move me back several inches in the seat, which helps with the close-up pegs.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As to the seat itself, I got some closed cell foam from an upholstery shop. (open cell holds water) I put it on with spray adhesive and then shaped it with a belt sander. I put a piece of leather over the top and another over the back (figure out where your holes are going to be before you weld everything up, it will make your life a lot easier.) I then used an awl to lace the two together. It was pretty slow work. It looked very good as it was but I wanted a bit of bling. So I got some 1970's Zodiac. I wanted it to look good so I took it to a saddle maker who did the final stitching for me. I think it turned out pretty good.

 
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