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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
looking for a new seal, i don't have a clue what a part number would be or anything which im looking for. below is a photo of the seal, it is on the shifter "stem" next to the drive sprocket. im also not sure if it is also the clutch seal that is leaking. please take a look below and if you have a part number or anything that would be great.
 

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No one here will be able to help you out if we don't know what kind of bike we're looking at.

Take a minute and change your profile and/or signature line to reflect you bike year/model.
 

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Sensei
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It's a shift-shaft seal for a DOHC 450..... I'll edit in the part number this evening when I get caught up on posts.... Steve
 

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Why do you think the seal is bad?
Don't lose that washer that was behind the circlip there - it's special and no longer available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
66Sprint was right its from a 74 cl450k6 and im still not 100% sure if its that seal or the one for the clutch thats above it. i know its from that side of the bike and every time that i go out and ride and then come back it leaks, when i pull off the cover it just pours out and it doesnt stay leaking. so if anyone knows the part number for either seal please let me know.
 

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Wanted,
I think you'll find the CMSNL.com website helpful as you look to id parts numbers for your CL450k6. They and a number of other websites have a complete fiche for just about any bike under the sun. The helpful thing about CMS is they use actual Honda part numbers rather than stock numbers like Bikebandit.com. To get the Honda part number covert the CMS # to xxxxx-xxx-xxx. The particular fiche for the part you seek is http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cl450-scrambler-450-k6-us_model558/partslist/E++18.html I believe the seal you are looking for is #6 on the fiche.
 

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Are you sure it's not the ?countershaft? (output shaft) seal? It could be either or neither. Does it have a chain oiler in the main (output) shaft??


GB :mrgreen:
 

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The seal for the gear change shaft and the clutch shaft show on CMSNL as both the same seal. If you find that one of them is your problem there is a pair listed on ebay, item number 190146335505.
Dean
 

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dingo450 said:
The seal for the gear change shaft and the clutch shaft show on CMSNL as both the same seal. If you find that one of them is your problem there is a pair listed on ebay, item number 190146335505.
Dean
????
They are all 3 different part numbers. They have changed part numbers a few times. The current numbers should be:
The clutch rod seal is 91203-292-005
The gearshift shaft seal is 91202-426-003
The countershaft seal is 91205-283-015

If you can wait a few weeks for delivery- go here:
http://www.apachemotorcycles.com/fiche_select.asp?mfg=Honda
Scroll down and enter the part # in the reverse part number lookup field. You'd be hard pressed to find better pricing on OEM parts.
the seal shown in that ebay listing is $2.94 from these guys.
I check on this stuff from time to time, these guys have always done right by me. Shipping is reasonable but the more you order the better the shipping will be per part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
it could be the countershaft seal i did not even think about looking at that one. i bookmarked the cmsl.com website and saw that they had a oil seal kit. honda part number 90000-200-000 and i think that i might just buy the kit ($33), more seals and a lower cost per seal. then i looked at the apache motorcycles and put the part number into the parts finder and found them for $2.55. am i seeing that correctly? it seems to be a little too cheap. what do you guys say?

http://www.apachemotorcycles.com/fiche_ ... 00-200-000

also im looking for some 6v light bulbs for another project, honda cm185t, i need a new headlight and the gauge lights, my local stores dont have any bulbs at all, found some part numbers on the cmsl site.

33120-329-671 headlight
34902-202-000 bulb for dash \
34908-230-000 another bulb for dash / dont know the difference between these ones
34906-329-671 tail light

looking for a cheap price on all the bulbs.

thanks guys.
 

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Just a note here that someone may have already told you but when you are sliding new seals on shafts clean the shaft to get anything off that might damage the new seal while installing it and put tape over any splines or keyways that might cut the new seal as well. If I were a betting man my money would be on the clutch rod seal as the leaker.
Don
 

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That price is right, but the part number 90000-200-000 I can't ID, not sure what it is. Is that part number for an OEM kit? That same part # at ronayers.com is like $3. I just don't know. I believe that kit at cmsnl is for C92/C95.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i looked and found the 3 seals under the drive train cover extremly cheap. but a question on the lights, if i get a 12v headlight bulb and only put 6v thru it will that cause any issues? i dont think that it would change anything, just be a somewhat weak light. it would also help me cut some cost and allow my local vendors get another happy customer. let me know what you think.

thanks
 

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If you use a 12volt bulb on a 6 volt system it'll be more than just a little dim-it'll be feeble. just a warning, I've tried it myself, it works but not real well.
 

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Sensei
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IF you run the lights on/as an AC circuit (NO frame grounds, and use the yellow and pink wires for the two connections to each light) you'll feed about 8.8 to 9.3VAC to the 12 V bulbs... (A bit brighter).... I tried it on my C-200, but you DO have to insulate ALL lights from chassis ground, and it's not optimal... My eventual "cure" was to run everything as a 12V system, using a 12V battery, coil, and lights and increase the output from the 6V alternator using a 2/1 transformer (to get 12V) and adding a 450 Honda rectifier and regulator to the circuit.....
I know this may sound confusing, but if you'll phone me, I'll explain in detail......PM to set up a phone time that's convienent for you...... Steve 540-427-4256 (Virginia)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
im really not looking to spend any money on this build just the basics, my buddy found me the smaller lights dirt cheap and the headlight it looks like im going to have to spend about $50 for at least, cant seem to find it cheaper. i kinda figured that would be the price.
 

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That's what this site is also useful for. Putting out wanted ads for cheap parts, to save you a buck or two. I often ask for members location if it's not in their profile, so that I can do parts searches for them locally(to them).

A just noticed that a couple seal kits popped up really cheap on Ebay, and the headlights do too every now and then..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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66Sprint said:
IF you run the lights on/as an AC circuit (NO frame grounds, and use the yellow and pink wires for the two connections to each light) you'll feed about 8.8 to 9.3VAC to the 12 V bulbs... (A bit brighter).... I tried it on my C-200, but you DO have to insulate ALL lights from chassis ground, and it's not optimal... My eventual "cure" was to run everything as a 12V system, using a 12V battery, coil, and lights and increase the output from the 6V alternator using a 2/1 transformer (to get 12V) and adding a 450 Honda rectifier and regulator to the circuit.....
I know this may sound confusing, but if you'll phone me, I'll explain in detail......PM to set up a phone time that's convienent for you...... Steve 540-427-4256 (Virginia)

I have never personally tried this, but knowing that 12 volt stuff usually draws less current than 6 volt stuff & knowing the high voltage you get from an unloaded alternator it may be worth a try.

Have you tried simply popping 12 volt bulbs, 12 volt regulator & a 12 volt battery in the bike??
The 6 volt starter should be fine as long as you don't grind on it for long periods.
I'm not sure about the coils, maybe just add a ballast resistor??
I have heard a couple other people claim they have done this & it worked fine.
Again, I have never tried it myself though, just heard it from a couple others.
Try it at your own risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
found out that it is my countershaft seal, new one is on its way, but i was wondering about hot to get the old seal out to replace it, im hopeing that i can just pull it out and slide the new one on but my manual says nothing about it so im thinking its going to be something like spliting the case to get in there to change it. anyone have an idea? well of course you do you guys are awesome!!!
 

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Most seals - You can drill two small holes in the face and/or just screw in two small sheetmetal screws. Then pull on those or pry on them by putting something under your prying tool of choice. Some seals that are small, I've had to just destroy them a piece at a time and pull the parts out with needle nose pliers, then tap around to get the outer part of the seal out of the case..

Oil up the shaft before installing your new seal and tap it in with a socket or piece of PVC pipe that is the same size as the outer part of the seal..


GB :mrgreen:
 
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