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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is common recommended break in time for new piston rings? I'm thinking it would be a good idea to take it easy for awhile, I'm wondering if you guys have some more specific recommedations though ie what to keep the rpms at or below and for how long in miles.
 

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Sensei
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I usually go with the "not exceeding 80%" rule for the first 500 miles.....
Don't rev it past 75/80% of redline in any gear, and don't "flog" it... ease on the throttle, etc, etc.....Remember to change the oil and re-adjust the valves at about 200 miles, and at 500..... After that, normal intervals....
 

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I didn't say anything yet - there are different theories on how to break in a new engine.
Despite the seductive logic of breaking in cautiously, there is some evidence to suggest that a hard break-in is more effective.
This is a widely read and somewhat revered treatment of the subject .....

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

However, this school of thought also has its detractors. You can Google for comments on this article...

So, suggesting anything to you would not be appropriate (for me, anyway).
I can tell you that personally, I'm not afraid to get on a new engine, and get on it hard. However I rarely take any bike to red line, unless I'm trying to "squirt" out of imminent danger.
On my recently rebuilt 450, I took it to 8,000 rpm on the first ride, and do reach that rpm regularly - but that's nowhere near redline on a 450.

I will advise you to change the oil after a couple hundred miles, examining the old oil carefully..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good tips, I'll be sure to read the article you linked thanks. It seems like most things their are different schools of thought.
 

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Sensei
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I do agree (mostly) with his comments about petroleum based oil .... Synthetic is too slippery for good seating.....And about the proper warm-up first....I'm still using "ball-stone" hones (rather than bar type), so I'm back in the "serious" honing era, and as most of these older bikes have 40 year old technology, and metallurgy.... I'll stand by my 80% rule.... Not to say I dont get to WOT, I just roll it to there rather than "snap" it wide open....But I can see validity in his principle for newer engines as well..........(And, Bills 8000 rpm is only about 76% of redline.....)...LMAO!... Another thing that will never be 100% settled, along with best oil type, best tires, etc...... :lol: :lol: :lol: Steve
 

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Another tip my machinist gave me is to never install the rings and pistons by putting oil on any of it - he says that will actually inhibit seating, to install the jugs/pistons/rings dry.
Of course, you have to think about that before the engine is back together.
I've followed his advice, and no problems so far.

I'm with Steve, I think it's best to use the gas and oil the bike was designed for - and there are numerous comments about synthetic oils causing clutch problems, etc.

Most bikes peak in the hp/torque graphs at less than the red line, so I don't see much reason to hit redline at all.
Graphs aside, you can feel when the bike starts to pull less hard, don't even need a tach - once that happens, time to shift and get back on the fat part of the power curve.
I've taken this 450 past 9,000 a couple of times, it starts to "drop off" a bit after 9K. Pulls hard all the way there, but you can definitely feel it peak there.
And of course on a 40-year old engine that I poured my guts into, redline is kind of a scary prospect, no spare engine or anything......
 

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Sensei
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I'm with you on the shift points, no use revving for revs sake (just to get to redline), and I also assemble pistons/rings/cylinders dry, but use up tons of assembly lube everywhere else ...(Ultra Slick is the bomb!).... :D
 

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66Sprint said:
but use up tons of assembly lube everywhere else ...(Ultra Slick is the bomb!).... :D

Yeah, I'm not bashful about using assembly oil either, good stuff.
I don't use it on tranny or shifting parts though - learned that the hard way, too sticky. I just coat those parts in regular oil.
 

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66Sprint said:
Another thing that will never be 100% settled, along with best oil type, best tires, etc...... :lol: :lol: :lol: Steve
That's the one thing I don't understand. With today's technology and testing equipment, I can't understand how this hasn't been tested to really see which method is better, or even, if either is best. Maybe it doesn't even matter, both end up with the same result. I would love to see some tests done to see.
 

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Haven't built an engine for a few decades but remember a saying from "back in the day"

Break in hard to make it fast, break in easy to make it last.

I've never heard of a good objective study being done on the subject either. Fits in with the worlds other great debates:

Politics, religion, blondes/brunettes/redheads (also referred to as the Ginger/Mary ann debate).
 
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