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Sensei
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Part 1: Do I even want THAT bike?.....

If you are considering any bike purchase to restore, rebuild to ride, or modify, the first thing you'll need to know is "Is the bike worth what they're asking?"....Here is what I check....
#1 CHECK THE OIL!.... Make SURE it has enough that other tests won't ruin the internals.....
#2COMPRESSION; Kick the engine through several times...and see if it "feels" like it has good compression.... Listen for the "thump-thump" sound from the exhaust. Most Hondas that "feel" good will at least start and run with basic cleaning (new plugs, clean oil, cleaning the carbs, clean/check points, new/good battery)
If it won't "kick-through", consider offering MUCH less money, or looking elsewhere unless it is one of several (the parts bike) and is otherwise in REALLY nice condition (and cheap).....
#3 APPEARANCE; Is it ALL there?...... How "rusty/crusty" is it?........Can I find replacements for the damaged/missing parts?.... How much will they cost?......
#4 IS IT TITLED in the seller's name?; Without appropriate paperwork, the bike IS just a "parts bike", and you have no way of knowing if you are contributing to the motorcycle theft problem. I do understand that in some states on "older" bikes, a registration alone is valid for transfer .... AT THE MINIMUM, get a SIGNED, NOTORIZED bill of sale that includes a FULL discription including ALL identifying numbers,(the engine too) the SELLERS full name and address (preferably copied from his drivers' license), AND, a written statement that HE IS THE VALID OWNER... (This will expedite your obtaining ownership papers, and/or may keep you out of future legal problems)... NOTE: "Open" or "Skip" titles are often hard to backtrack should you find that necessary......
#5 Haggle.....You can always offer more..... I can't count how many titled, complete (but ugly) motorcycles (with engines that will "kick through) I've purchased for $100 or less.... Often for only $25.....Occaisionally (stuck engines)for FREE!..... TALK to the man!.....


NOW THAT YOU HAVE A BIKE (that you actually own), Here is what to do when you get it home......

#1 CHANGE THE OIL....Even if it is clean and "looks" good, moisture from the atmosphere combines with sulphur in the oil and can create a corrosive mixture..(SULPHURIC ACID). Running the bike "boils-out" the moisture, so it is NOT a problem on a bike that is being used, but on a bike that has "set" for a while......??!!!?....
Fill the crankcase with CLEAR KEROSENE to the proper oil level,(remove and discard old spark-plugs) kick it through to FLUSH out ALL the old oil, drain out the Kero, add some oil, again, repeatedly kick that through, drain that all out, THEN put in new oil to the correct level...... Install NEW spark-plugs, properly gapped......
Step#2 Decide if you simply MUST(a) hear it "burp-over and run" or (b) if you want to be able to ride it when it starts......

For those of you wise enough to choose option (b), Step 3 is measure cold compression.... It should at least read something, preferably somewhere near the "low" end of the hot compression test specs... ANY "0" reading indicates a problem requiring a teardown or rebuild.... (You should have not been so exited, and/or listened for the "thumps" better)

Step 4 is FUEL SUPPLY: Drain the fuel tank and carbs..... Clean the tank out, (modern gas mixtures "go bad" in 30 to 45 days if vented to air like on our bikes, and if it's old enough NOT to be "modern" it's probably shellac by now..... I recommend soaking with a 50/50 mixture of MSR..... checking and rinsing every other day (it CAN take weeks!).....Check and/or rebuild the petcock, add inline filters on GP......
Clean and/or rebuild the carbs, adjusting to factory recommended specs.... Visually examine the intake rubber areas for "dry-rot" or other cracking...If you find ANY, replace them.....

The rest of you {option (a) guys like me...} can read how to "hot-wire and fire" in this quote from another topic.....
The Blue point wire connects to the blue condenser wire and to the blue wire on the R/H coil.... The Yellow point wire connects to the yellow condenser wire and to the yellow wire on the L/H coil.
The other coil wires should both be Black with a white stripe..... They connect together and to the Black/white stripe wire going to the "kill" switch.... The solid black wire that also goes to the "kill" brings in power from the battery, through the ignition (main) switch.......
With the points wired to the condensers and coils as discribed before, Hook one alligator clip to BOTH Black/white stripe wires on the coils ( they should already be unplugged from the main harness at this time...)
Remove or move the rubber boot on/at the starter motor so you can see the "bolt" (terminal) and heavy wire......
Connect one "jumper" wire from the battery negative (B-) to the bike chassis... A motor mount bolt is usually a good place for this
When you connect the other end of the alligator clip wire to the Positive jumper (from the battery+), the system is "hot-wired" and "live"...... either kickstart the bike, or touch the positive jumper to the "bolt" you exposed on the starter motor....(make sure it doesn't ground to the frame!)....The engine should spin over ....opening the throttle (about 1/4 of the way), should allow it to start and run..... Once it starts, lift the jumper from the starter-motor "bolt", but keep/leave the smaller alligator wire connected to it...Bike should continue to run.....

NOTE: A SMALL "puff" of ether (starting fluid) may facilitate the original starting, the choke may also help.....

I'll edit in more as time allows......Feel free to ask questions if my directions aren't clear or detailed enough.... :D Steve
 

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Nice work. Speaking of oil, what do you recommend in an old 350? Everyone rants and raves about synthetic just wondering what the experts think over here?
 

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Sensei
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Personally, I NEVER use synthetics, BUT that is probably because when they first came out, we had problems with clutch slippage, the additives affecting rubber parts, etc......Another possibility is because I'm an "olde farte" and unlikely to change my ways.....
Many riders SWEAR by synthetics and are just as stubborn insisting they should be the ONLY kind to use.....
The current "best" oil constantly changes.... My Sprints came from the factory with CASTROL R ... Which at the time, was actually made from Castor beans.. (hence, a vegetable oil)... However, after sitting in an engine for a time (unused) it became more like shortening (vegetable grease) and blocked crankshaft passages causing serious damages upon running, or requiring complete disassembly to correct....
I believe that the correct quantity of CLEAN, FRESH oil is more important than the type of oil used......
(I generally run GTX in 20-50 MOST of the time....)
Steve
 

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mnnance3 said:
Thanks for the tutorial..

My question... What is MSR ??
Milk Stone Remover generally available at Tractor Supply and Farm Supply type of stores.
 

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robotmonkey said:
Say, the oil thing reminds me -- do you read the level on the center stand or kickstand?
Center stand - the dipstick is read after wiping then sitting it in the top of the threads - don't screw it in until you get the reading.
 

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tbpmusic said:
Center stand - the dipstick is read after wiping then sitting it in the top of the threads - don't screw it in until you get the reading.
Thanks!

EDIT: Well, the drain plug is stripped-ish, so that oil will have to sit until I stop by the Bike Whisperer's for another one.
 

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66Sprint said:
The rest of you {option (a) guys like me...} can read how to "hot-wire and fire" in this quote from another topic.....
The Blue point wire connects to the blue condenser wire and to the blue wire on the R/H coil.... The Yellow point wire connects to the yellow condenser wire and to the yellow wire on the L/H coil.
The other coil wires should both be Black with a white stripe..... They connect together and to the Black/white stripe wire going to the "kill" switch.... The solid black wire that also goes to the "kill" brings in power from the battery, through the ignition (main) switch.......
With the points wired to the condensers and coils as discribed before, Hook one alligator clip to BOTH Black/white stripe wires on the coils ( they should already be unplugged from the main harness at this time...)
Remove or move the rubber boot on/at the starter motor so you can see the "bolt" (terminal) and heavy wire......
Connect one "jumper" wire from the battery negative (B-) to the bike chassis... A motor mount bolt is usually a good place for this
When you connect the other end of the alligator clip wire to the Positive jumper (from the battery+), the system is "hot-wired" and "live"...... either kickstart the bike, or touch the positive jumper to the "bolt" you exposed on the starter motor....(make sure it doesn't ground to the frame!)....The engine should spin over ....opening the throttle (about 1/4 of the way), should allow it to start and run..... Once it starts, lift the jumper from the starter-motor "bolt", but keep/leave the smaller alligator wire connected to it...Bike should continue to run.....

NOTE: A SMALL "puff" of ether (starting fluid) may facilitate the original starting, the choke may also help.....

I'll edit in more as time allows......Feel free to ask questions if my directions aren't clear or detailed enough.... :D Steve

I have some questiuons about "hot-wire and and fire".

0: Assume I have 12V battery and car jump-start cable. The jump start cable have two alligator clips in EACH end(RED and BLACK).

1: In one end of the jump-start cable, Connet the RED alligator clips to the battery's positive terminal and BLACK alligator clip to the negative terminal.

2: In the another end of the jump-start cable:
2.0. First, unplugged the BOTH Black/white stripe wires on the coils from the main harness and connected them each other. I confused here, you know there are only TWO alligator clip in each end of the jump start cable, The RED one is postive and the BLACK one is negative. I should use RED one or Black one to "Hook one alligator clip to BOTH Black/white stripe wires on the coils "?

66Sprint said:
With the points wired to the condensers and coils as discribed before, Hook one alligator clip to BOTH Black/white stripe wires on the coils ( they should already be unplugged from the main harness at this time...)
2.1 The Balck alligator clip connect to the bike chassis.

66Sprint said:
Connect one "jumper" wire from the battery negative (B-) to the bike chassis... A motor mount bolt is usually a good place for this
2.2 ,
66Sprint said:
When you connect the other end of the alligator clip wire to the Positive jumper (from the battery+), the system is "hot-wired" and "live"
Here use one more "alligator clip "(I guess it is the RED one from the batery's Positive terminal ). Howe many "alligator clips" one jump start have? Also, what means " Positive jumper "?
2.3 One more "positive jumper "
66Sprint said:
either kickstart the bike, or touch the positive jumper to the "bolt" you exposed on the starter motor

Do I miss some thing ? Could some one help me finger out how to hot-wire and fire CB360/350 by one battery and one normal jump-start cable? Or Do I need one more jump-start cable?


Thanks.
 

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Sensei
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hook BOTH coil (black/white) wires (unplugged from harness) to the red (positive) jumper cable alligator making sure it/they don't touch the frame/engine.... Hook the black jumper cable alligator to a good ground.(like the engine cases or a motor mount bolt.)
Connect the other jumper cable ends to a good battery, Red to positive (B+) and black to negative (B-).... Kick start it.... It should fire, burp, or run depending on fuel supply.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you want to get fancy and electric start the bike, you'll also need one more small jumper (3 ft of 16 ga wire with small alligators on each end).... Hook one of the small wire's alligators to (both) coils black and white wires and the other end of this small jumper to the "automotive jumper's" red alligator...... Hook the other end of the large red jumper to the battery positive (B+)..... Hook the large black jumper's ends to the frame (engine bolt, etc)and the battery negative (B-).... Touch the "auto" red alligator to the starter bolt terminal at the top of the starter motor/front of the engine to roll the engine over.....
 

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Sensei
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
74cb360 ....I can add a pictorial schematic if you think it would help, or explain better/more easily.... Let us know your results..... Steve
 

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Hi, Steve:
I got your idea about "hot-wire and and fire".

66Sprint said:
If you want to get fancy and electric start the bike, you'll also need one more small jumper (3 ft of 16 ga wire with small alligators on each end).... Hook one of the small wire's alligators to (both) coils black and white wires and the other end of this small jumper to the "automotive jumper's" red alligator...... Hook the other end of the large red jumper to the battery positive (B+)..... Hook the large black jumper's ends to the frame (engine bolt, etc)and the battery negative (B-).... Touch the "auto" red alligator to the starter bolt terminal at the top of the starter motor/front of the engine to roll the engine over.....
This one is little bit complex. If you can post pictorial schematic, it will be great help for me.

Last year I got one 1974 Cb360. Since it is my first bike and It is not complete, I am stuck there by the messed wire and missed parts for long time. One month ago, I got anothe one. Luckly, This one is totally complete. So, I re-start to work on them.

I just bought one 12N12A-4A-1 battery, but do not know how to fill it and charge it. Any tips?
 
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