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Part 1: Do I even want THAT bike?.....
If you are considering any bike purchase to restore, rebuild to ride, or modify, the first thing you'll need to know is "Is the bike worth what they're asking?"....Here is what I check....
#1 CHECK THE OIL!.... Make SURE it has enough that other tests won't ruin the internals.....
#2COMPRESSION; Kick the engine through several times...and see if it "feels" like it has good compression.... Listen for the "thump-thump" sound from the exhaust. Most Hondas that "feel" good will at least start and run with basic cleaning (new plugs, clean oil, cleaning the carbs, clean/check points, new/good battery)
If it won't "kick-through", consider offering MUCH less money, or looking elsewhere unless it is one of several (the parts bike) and is otherwise in REALLY nice condition (and cheap).....
#3 APPEARANCE; Is it ALL there?...... How "rusty/crusty" is it?........Can I find replacements for the damaged/missing parts?.... How much will they cost?......
#4 IS IT TITLED in the seller's name?; Without appropriate paperwork, the bike IS just a "parts bike", and you have no way of knowing if you are contributing to the motorcycle theft problem. I do understand that in some states on "older" bikes, a registration alone is valid for transfer .... AT THE MINIMUM, get a SIGNED, NOTORIZED bill of sale that includes a FULL discription including ALL identifying numbers,(the engine too) the SELLERS full name and address (preferably copied from his drivers' license), AND, a written statement that HE IS THE VALID OWNER... (This will expedite your obtaining ownership papers, and/or may keep you out of future legal problems)... NOTE: "Open" or "Skip" titles are often hard to backtrack should you find that necessary......
#5 Haggle.....You can always offer more..... I can't count how many titled, complete (but ugly) motorcycles (with engines that will "kick through) I've purchased for $100 or less.... Often for only $25.....Occaisionally (stuck engines)for FREE!..... TALK to the man!.....
NOW THAT YOU HAVE A BIKE (that you actually own), Here is what to do when you get it home......
#1 CHANGE THE OIL....Even if it is clean and "looks" good, moisture from the atmosphere combines with sulphur in the oil and can create a corrosive mixture..(SULPHURIC ACID). Running the bike "boils-out" the moisture, so it is NOT a problem on a bike that is being used, but on a bike that has "set" for a while......??!!!?....
Fill the crankcase with CLEAR KEROSENE to the proper oil level,(remove and discard old spark-plugs) kick it through to FLUSH out ALL the old oil, drain out the Kero, add some oil, again, repeatedly kick that through, drain that all out, THEN put in new oil to the correct level...... Install NEW spark-plugs, properly gapped......
Step#2 Decide if you simply MUST(a) hear it "burp-over and run" or (b) if you want to be able to ride it when it starts......
For those of you wise enough to choose option (b), Step 3 is measure cold compression.... It should at least read something, preferably somewhere near the "low" end of the hot compression test specs... ANY "0" reading indicates a problem requiring a teardown or rebuild.... (You should have not been so exited, and/or listened for the "thumps" better)
Step 4 is FUEL SUPPLY: Drain the fuel tank and carbs..... Clean the tank out, (modern gas mixtures "go bad" in 30 to 45 days if vented to air like on our bikes, and if it's old enough NOT to be "modern" it's probably shellac by now..... I recommend soaking with a 50/50 mixture of MSR..... checking and rinsing every other day (it CAN take weeks!).....Check and/or rebuild the petcock, add inline filters on GP......
Clean and/or rebuild the carbs, adjusting to factory recommended specs.... Visually examine the intake rubber areas for "dry-rot" or other cracking...If you find ANY, replace them.....
The rest of you {option (a) guys like me...} can read how to "hot-wire and fire" in this quote from another topic.....
The Blue point wire connects to the blue condenser wire and to the blue wire on the R/H coil.... The Yellow point wire connects to the yellow condenser wire and to the yellow wire on the L/H coil.
The other coil wires should both be Black with a white stripe..... They connect together and to the Black/white stripe wire going to the "kill" switch.... The solid black wire that also goes to the "kill" brings in power from the battery, through the ignition (main) switch.......
With the points wired to the condensers and coils as discribed before, Hook one alligator clip to BOTH Black/white stripe wires on the coils ( they should already be unplugged from the main harness at this time...)
Remove or move the rubber boot on/at the starter motor so you can see the "bolt" (terminal) and heavy wire......
Connect one "jumper" wire from the battery negative (B-) to the bike chassis... A motor mount bolt is usually a good place for this
When you connect the other end of the alligator clip wire to the Positive jumper (from the battery+), the system is "hot-wired" and "live"...... either kickstart the bike, or touch the positive jumper to the "bolt" you exposed on the starter motor....(make sure it doesn't ground to the frame!)....The engine should spin over ....opening the throttle (about 1/4 of the way), should allow it to start and run..... Once it starts, lift the jumper from the starter-motor "bolt", but keep/leave the smaller alligator wire connected to it...Bike should continue to run.....
NOTE: A SMALL "puff" of ether (starting fluid) may facilitate the original starting, the choke may also help.....
I'll edit in more as time allows......Feel free to ask questions if my directions aren't clear or detailed enough....
Steve
If you are considering any bike purchase to restore, rebuild to ride, or modify, the first thing you'll need to know is "Is the bike worth what they're asking?"....Here is what I check....
#1 CHECK THE OIL!.... Make SURE it has enough that other tests won't ruin the internals.....
#2COMPRESSION; Kick the engine through several times...and see if it "feels" like it has good compression.... Listen for the "thump-thump" sound from the exhaust. Most Hondas that "feel" good will at least start and run with basic cleaning (new plugs, clean oil, cleaning the carbs, clean/check points, new/good battery)
If it won't "kick-through", consider offering MUCH less money, or looking elsewhere unless it is one of several (the parts bike) and is otherwise in REALLY nice condition (and cheap).....
#3 APPEARANCE; Is it ALL there?...... How "rusty/crusty" is it?........Can I find replacements for the damaged/missing parts?.... How much will they cost?......
#4 IS IT TITLED in the seller's name?; Without appropriate paperwork, the bike IS just a "parts bike", and you have no way of knowing if you are contributing to the motorcycle theft problem. I do understand that in some states on "older" bikes, a registration alone is valid for transfer .... AT THE MINIMUM, get a SIGNED, NOTORIZED bill of sale that includes a FULL discription including ALL identifying numbers,(the engine too) the SELLERS full name and address (preferably copied from his drivers' license), AND, a written statement that HE IS THE VALID OWNER... (This will expedite your obtaining ownership papers, and/or may keep you out of future legal problems)... NOTE: "Open" or "Skip" titles are often hard to backtrack should you find that necessary......
#5 Haggle.....You can always offer more..... I can't count how many titled, complete (but ugly) motorcycles (with engines that will "kick through) I've purchased for $100 or less.... Often for only $25.....Occaisionally (stuck engines)for FREE!..... TALK to the man!.....
NOW THAT YOU HAVE A BIKE (that you actually own), Here is what to do when you get it home......
#1 CHANGE THE OIL....Even if it is clean and "looks" good, moisture from the atmosphere combines with sulphur in the oil and can create a corrosive mixture..(SULPHURIC ACID). Running the bike "boils-out" the moisture, so it is NOT a problem on a bike that is being used, but on a bike that has "set" for a while......??!!!?....
Fill the crankcase with CLEAR KEROSENE to the proper oil level,(remove and discard old spark-plugs) kick it through to FLUSH out ALL the old oil, drain out the Kero, add some oil, again, repeatedly kick that through, drain that all out, THEN put in new oil to the correct level...... Install NEW spark-plugs, properly gapped......
Step#2 Decide if you simply MUST(a) hear it "burp-over and run" or (b) if you want to be able to ride it when it starts......
For those of you wise enough to choose option (b), Step 3 is measure cold compression.... It should at least read something, preferably somewhere near the "low" end of the hot compression test specs... ANY "0" reading indicates a problem requiring a teardown or rebuild.... (You should have not been so exited, and/or listened for the "thumps" better)
Step 4 is FUEL SUPPLY: Drain the fuel tank and carbs..... Clean the tank out, (modern gas mixtures "go bad" in 30 to 45 days if vented to air like on our bikes, and if it's old enough NOT to be "modern" it's probably shellac by now..... I recommend soaking with a 50/50 mixture of MSR..... checking and rinsing every other day (it CAN take weeks!).....Check and/or rebuild the petcock, add inline filters on GP......
Clean and/or rebuild the carbs, adjusting to factory recommended specs.... Visually examine the intake rubber areas for "dry-rot" or other cracking...If you find ANY, replace them.....
The rest of you {option (a) guys like me...} can read how to "hot-wire and fire" in this quote from another topic.....
The Blue point wire connects to the blue condenser wire and to the blue wire on the R/H coil.... The Yellow point wire connects to the yellow condenser wire and to the yellow wire on the L/H coil.
The other coil wires should both be Black with a white stripe..... They connect together and to the Black/white stripe wire going to the "kill" switch.... The solid black wire that also goes to the "kill" brings in power from the battery, through the ignition (main) switch.......
With the points wired to the condensers and coils as discribed before, Hook one alligator clip to BOTH Black/white stripe wires on the coils ( they should already be unplugged from the main harness at this time...)
Remove or move the rubber boot on/at the starter motor so you can see the "bolt" (terminal) and heavy wire......
Connect one "jumper" wire from the battery negative (B-) to the bike chassis... A motor mount bolt is usually a good place for this
When you connect the other end of the alligator clip wire to the Positive jumper (from the battery+), the system is "hot-wired" and "live"...... either kickstart the bike, or touch the positive jumper to the "bolt" you exposed on the starter motor....(make sure it doesn't ground to the frame!)....The engine should spin over ....opening the throttle (about 1/4 of the way), should allow it to start and run..... Once it starts, lift the jumper from the starter-motor "bolt", but keep/leave the smaller alligator wire connected to it...Bike should continue to run.....
NOTE: A SMALL "puff" of ether (starting fluid) may facilitate the original starting, the choke may also help.....
I'll edit in more as time allows......Feel free to ask questions if my directions aren't clear or detailed enough....