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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

Bike: Honda CB250
Year: 2000
Model: Nighthawk / Twister

Got a little issue at the moment with my indicators. Today I took off my rear guards, rear lights, front indicators and chopped up part of my frame. So its pretty much impossible to go back to the original lights anyways so that is out of the question, and because this is a project bike (cafe racer) I am determined to get these new lights to work

Now a few weeks ago I bought these lights (unsure if link is still good):

4X Motorcycle Bike Indicator Turn Signal Light Bulb FOR Harley Bobber Cafe Racer | eBay

Anyways I believe the original indicators are 12V, 25W, while the new lights are only 9V, unsure if that is correct though, however the new ones ARE incandescent bulbs too and NOT LEDS.

After wiring everything up I turn on the bike and try to use the indicators, now the lights turn on, then I hear the relay click over but they don't seem to flash at all. I am assuming someone else has had this issue before and just want to know what I should do.

My options I was told from my local shop was either:

1. Replace the relay
2. Add resistors to the lights to allow the current relay to click over allowing the blinkers to flash.

But the issue is if I do get either or what is going to be easier or more practical to install and what relay / resistors do I buy? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Existing Relay States:

MITSUBA
FR-2204
12.8V 85c/m
23Wx2 + 3.4W
(21Wx2 + 4W)
DOT

Cheers

Anthony


Update:

Here are the two bulbs the larger being the original:

Original: P21W 12V
New: R10W 12V

Now do is it possible to get the smaller bulbs in 21W or impossible? Also what is the P / R symbol stand for is this sizing?

12287002_10154333408377538_4742523_o.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Why not just swap the bulbs over?
Your battery in good shape?
I would if I could but the little bullet indicators the bulbs are about half the size of the original bulbs and don't fit with the casing on unfortunately.

Battery is in good shape, was checked a week ago :)
 

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You need a flasher that will flash at the reduced current draw of the smaller bulbs (wattage total).....
An electronic rather than a mechanical one is the usual recommendation as it does not rely on wattage draw...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You need a flasher that will flash at the reduced current draw of the smaller bulbs (wattage total).....
An electronic rather than a mechanical one is the usual recommendation as it does not rely on wattage draw...
Now technically would this work?

RELAY FLASHER LED 2 PIN UNIV 12V | Car Hardware Accessories | Car Audio Hardware | Sight & Sound Car | PRODUCTS | SY4016 | Jaycar Electronics

But it's max is 10A and the bulbs are 10A, so would it be advisable to get something a little stronger?
 

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That's NOT the one I would choose..... Go to your local auto-parts store and get an electronic flasher with three terminals....
B (battery) goes to Honda Black wire, L (load) connects to Honda Gray wire, and you'll find a nearby empty Honda green for the third terminal (ground)....
About $7 to $10......
 

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You just need to swap out the flasher unit for one that is not load-dependent for the blinking rate. One low buck solution is to use a two-prong flasher unit normally found in the 4-way flasher circuit in a car, they are not load dependent and will flash any number of bulbs at the same speed. "Heavy Duty" flashers, sold at the parts stores and RV places are usually that type.
 

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Probably not the solution you want to hear, but do you really want to rely on drivers seeing some dim-bulb 9 volt turn indicators? I'd be inclined to either stick with 12 volt bulbs with the highest wattage rating that I could legally get away with, or go with a well-designed LED turn signal-- in either case, drivers might actually see your signals and not decide to fill that lane you thought you had open.

On the subject of LEDs- you can buy cheap LED turn signals all day long. Don't. These can be very bright (particularly given their current draw), but they typically have all of the LEDs mounted in the same plane. The problem with LEDs is that they're VERY directional- they project a bright beam of light along a very narrow axis. So if you're directly behind the bike the LEDs are extremely bright, but get 15 degrees to either side and they can all but disappear. Well-designed signals will mount the LEDs on a curved surface that spreads the light over a wider area. Or you can buy LED conversion bulbs that replace the incandescent ones in your stock turn signals; these are typically a cylindrical array of LEDs that take advantage of the curved mirror in the turn signals-- the one that's there specifically to make them more visible over a wider range.
Motorcycle-Light-aluminum-Type-material-super-bright-font-b-led-b-font-H16-font-b-BA20D.jpg
 

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I would say it's the indicator relay as well. I'm not sure how your relay works but I'm guessing it's mechanical and load dependent like mine. Your new lower wattage bulbs reduces the current draw so the contact in the relay wasn't able to open, consequently the light stays on. A simple solution is to get a new flasher unit like mike in idaho said.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
BOOM!

Installed the new relay one I had in the link works perfect.

Also I did notice the new bulbs are also 12V so they are the same brightness as the previous globes, just less current. Pretty pleased with it all will take some pictures in a couple of days I think when I clean up all the wiring
 
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