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Yes, you'll have to cut the cam chain to get the head off. Depending on how this engine got so badly stuck, it might behoove you to go into the bottom end which is actually easier than the top end work for a novice to some extent.
 

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Yes, you'll have to cut the cam chain to get the head off. Depending on how this engine got so badly stuck, it might behoove you to go into the bottom end which is actually easier than the top end work for a novice to some extent.
Why not just remove the cam and let the chain drop?
 

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Must admit, I assumed that PO had already got the head off. Removing the cam on the 175 involves completely slacking off, or removing altogether, the tappet adjustors, then removing both cam journals, cam should then drop low enough to lift the cam chain off. Remember to remove the sleeve in the tacho drive end of the camshaft. If that is not removed the cam cannot clear the head in order to remove it. Cam chain will still be threaded through the tensioner assembly though, but it should be possible to get at the clip link now.

Here's a pic of my seized 175 engine and the hole saw.

Automotive tire Fluid Cuisine Gas Automotive wheel system
Light Wood Gas Auto part Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Yes, you'll have to cut the cam chain to get the head off. Depending on how this engine got so badly stuck, it might behoove you to go into the bottom end which is actually easier than the top end work for a novice to some extent.
So I cut the chain and took the head off. It appears when this thing was parked they must have been trying to adjust the values. The pistons were at what it appears to be TDC, ill have to look into where exactly the marks need to line up on the flywheel. I did break the pistons free and was able to get the cylinders off, very slowly. How do I know where to position the cam when I put it all back together, the valves need redone.

Also should I replace the chain tensioner while I have it all apart?
 

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Pull the valves out and see how bad the seats are in that rusted cylinder.
 
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