[Alan F.]

No worries about what you're using, you could put used engine oil in there and it'd help.

Marvel Mystery is a proprietary mix, they'll never tell.

 

[theblooms]

Isn't marvel mystery oil half atf halve kerosene, basically the same thing? I'm open to anything better.

I don't know that anyone really knows what MMO is! Hence the second "M" in the name: Mystery!

I can tell you that the ATF and acetone mixture needs to be shaken up before use, because it will seperate. But that's not really a big deal. After all, you have to shake a WD-40 can before use, too. I just keep mine in a generic quart spray bottle that I got from Ace hardware.

Another "must have" shop chemical that I keep in a spray bottle is Isopropyl Alcohol.Yup, just plain old rubbing alcohol. Stuff is terrific to safely clean up so many things around the garage, even your hands!

 

[Bill H]

You said this is your first bike and you are going to strip it down after freeing the cylinders. If you dont have one pick up a Honda full service manual. Buy some quart and gallon size storage bags and a black marker pen. Bag and tag every part you take off as to what it is and where it came from including all bolts, nuts ,screws, washers and grommets. Take photos of all cables and wiring. How and where they go thru the frame and handle bars. Also the ing switch and inside the headlight bucket and how the battery and starter circuits are wired. You wont remember where all that stuff came from so take lots of photos. Hope this helps .

Bill H

 

[mehwish.yati]

I've been reading alot here since getting a 72 cl175. The engine is locked up and I've put mystery oil in cylinders and in intake/exhaust ports.

A few questions;
- can't I just put a stronger bolt on the stator side to try and break it free? I've read to be careful not to sheer off bolt head. And also it would be breaking the engine free in the wrong direction.

- if I pull the engine now, how would I get the cylinders free from the corroded pistons and rings without prying on the fins or other parts? I don't know how to disassemble if these parts are rusted together.

-If I free the engine up won't it immediately score the cylinders? Should I put new rings and possibly pistons in as a minimum, assuming both are rusted?

-anyone have complete exhaust system for a 72 cl175?

Oil has been penitrating since Friday. So far she is rock solid seized.

Thank you all in advance!!
Looking forward to getting her running again.

This CL was purchased in September as a sort of birthday present to me. It was a project that had been stalled for three years, according to the former owner.

It needed a lot of work for my 2 stroke dirt bike here, and just much everything that could be done to it has been done. Thankfully, the only thing I didn't have to do was pull the engine.

I was able to take it on a nice little 20-mile ride today.

 

[Brad Karigan]

So broke a few bolts, double nutted with a big washer trying to rotate the engine with the 8.8 x 1.25 bolts I bought, and now thinking I buy this puller and thread it in and torque on this a bit. Any thoughts?

 

[circling the drain]

So broke a few bolts, double nutted with a big washer trying to rotate the engine with the 8.8 x 1.25 bolts I bought, and now thinking I buy this puller and thread it in and torque on this a bit. Any thoughts?

The only thing you'll accomplish by doing that is removing the alternator rotor. If you want the best possible results - as in maybe you can actually run it after breaking it loose - why do you seem to be in a hurry?

 

[Brad Karigan]

You are right I do need to be patient. I figured if I dont pull on it and just rotate on it, it would work better than just the retainer bolt. I've been looking around town to see who can bore the cylinders.

 

[circling the drain]

I figured if I dont pull on it and just rotate on it, it would work better than just the retainer bolt.

Problem is, in tightening it enough to actually try to rotate the crankshaft, it pushes on the end of the crankshaft to push the rotor off the taper... so well before you'd ever get the leverage you're looking for to even think about turning the crank, the rotor would pop off. The oversized bolt doesn't just facilitate pulling the rotor, it IS the "puller"

 

[Brad Karigan]

Ah I see, I understand how it works now. I feel smart...

 

[Brad Karigan]

Would a cb 175 exhaust work on this cl 175?

 

[circling the drain]

They will, but the footpegs have to match for them to fit and possibly the brake pedal as well

 

[Bownez]

Hi Brad,
I have unstuck a few Honda engines now, and some were very difficult.
A 1972 CL175 I had was stuck due to a broken camshaft. A previous owner had used silicon sealant instead of a gasket to cure an oil leak at the head cam cover.....BAD idea! I have been working lately on a stuck CL77 305 engine. I tried soaking, heat, steering wheel puller pressure and bad language. No luck.
My BMW mechanic loaned me his pneumatic air gun hammer with a shaft drift attached. I placed a large fender washer on the piston top and had at it. The piston finally moved. As a note, I had been soaking it for over a month.
Thus, some of these frozen engines can really be trying, but, with time, they will come loose.
Be patient.

MB

 

[Brad Karigan]

Wow that is impressive. Thanks for the encouragement! I will likely pull the engine soon. I did find an exhaust that will make what I have complete. What came with the bike was just the left header(left if you are sitting on the bike). It's in California and the guy is going to ship it my way. What he has just needs the left header so I think it's a match! Real good price to Patients is a virtue, I'm a welder not a woodworker, stick metal together and go

 

[circling the drain]

A pneumatic air-powered hammer is no different than a block of wood and a hammer, both exert a hammering force on the rod bearing. Yeah I know, the engine fires a gas/air mixture that explodes... but while the parts are in motion and NOT with the same immediate impact as a hammer on a rod sitting still. You'd be far better off using a big hole saw to cut out the top of the piston and get it apart that way since you'll be tearing down the entire engine anyway. But I guess if you don't have the patience to do it the safer way then have at it.

 

[Brad Karigan]

If I pull the engine apart my thought was to fashion a piece of wood that would strattle the rod and make contact with the bottom of the piston

 

[circling the drain]

You'd have to be pretty creative for that to work, the piston skirt never leaves the bore and since it's a 360° crankshaft both pistons would be in the same position. And if you back up the piston with wood, how does the hammering process make it move in the cylinder?

 

[I M Band]

A hole saw worked for me in the same situation. Just have to be careful not to dig into the cylinder bore too much, otherwise there won't be enough left in the liner for a rebore.

 

[Brad Karigan]

The head separated from the lower; upside down so rods facing up, not beating on the rods but the bottom of the piston with a 2x4 with a notch cut out of the middle to straddle the rod is my thought. Maybe try the steering wheel puller first. I think a new piston has the skirt on it, unless I'm understanding you wrong. So once bored and oversized pistons and rings are ordered I think it would be good to go?

 

[circling the drain]

Okay, I'm not sure how much you understand about engines. All pistons have skirts, but the piston travel distance (engine stroke) is designed to keep the piston inside the cylinder sleeve. As for your thought of the upside down method... it doesn't matter which direction you're trying to make the piston move, if it's still attached to the rod (which it will be until you get the cylinders off and take the wristpin out of the piston) you're still beating on the rod and piston combination. Fabricate a steel plate with holes in the top to slip it over the cylinder studs, put some form of spacers on the studs if necessary to adjust the height, secure the plate with nuts on the studs, then put something in between the plate and the piston to push on it. Steering wheel puller is a decent thought but you might only get 2 of the 3 holes in the puller's ears to align with the studs. Whatever you can do to avoid brute force on the piston while still attached to the rod.

 

[Brad Karigan]

Not enough to understand this I suppose, thank you for trying to help! Do I need to cut the cam chain? The engine is out and I pulled the cover. The master link is not visible. Splitting the bottom end I think I'm going to try and avoid.