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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all!

Well, the 1966 Honda whatever it was, was pulled from the offering table and a cash payment was made instead. So I never got to see it. I have another friend that I'm going to do a brake job on his jeep. Fronts and rears, rotors, drums wheel cylinders the whole nine yards. Now while all I asked for in return was pizza and beer (arrrgh beer) once he saw my 350 he insisted that I take a 78' CT185 off his hands in lieu of the pizza... he claims he's seen me eat pizza... OK so maybe I can put away a large you pick the pizza... We are talking pizza here, but I digest...er digress.

So Saturday I should have the above mentioned bike. (Chanting rising in the background) Oh mighty and all knowing forum experienced ones... what / where should this lowly disciple look for trouble spots? I've heard rumors that they were 6 volt systems? (Chanting suddenly stops all Monty Python-esque) Was this even possible in 1978? I plan to restore the bike for my wife to ride. After she takes her abate class in the spring. Is this style of bike a good beginner for a very petite female, (5'3"115) The price is right and it has a title so I'm rebuilding it regardless.

So please wax poetic on it's virtues or banes.

Respectfully,

Novafrk/Eric :ugeek:
 

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Eric, I assume you will actually be getting a 1978 CM 185 T...... This bike is the direct predecessor of both the CM 200 and the 250 "Rebel" (at least engine-wise).... They are lightweight commuter bikes with (unusual) " early Honda attempt at a crusier" styling....
One carb feeds both cylinders, and the engine is a 360 degree (type 2) with a 4 speed transmission.... Yes, they are 6 volt.....
Not a bad beginner bike, but the seemingly smaller 175 actually has more HP, better (stronger) frame structure, and a more proportionate seat to tank ratio (the 175 asthetics are better in MY opinion), so a 175 would be my choice IF given one...... Since this is already "locked-in"...Go with it!.......

Let us know what it ACTUALLY is......

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You are right it's a CM 185T. I was informed it's a 79 with 3900 miles on it. It needs a batter and a left turn signal. I'm guessing a carb kit... and probably tubes and tires.
 

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I was given a '78 CM185T, aka Twinstar, for free and I proceeded to put about $50 in it for new JCWhitney tires and such, and I commuted 60 miles per day for almost a year on it. 10,000 miles with never a hiccup, at 60mph and 65 mpg.

Finally, one day at speed, the countershaft seal backed out and it drained all its oil out and siezed that motor up tighter than a drum. That was all she wrote for the poor thing...

And, yes, it was a 6-volt bike, but the PO put a 12-volt battery in it, not knowing any different. He blew all the bulbs, which was one of the reasons I got it for free. I replaced all the bulbs from the cheapie auto parts store, put a 12-volt headlight on it from the junkyard and never had another issue. It managed to keep itself charged for the entire time I owned it. In fact, it was MONTHS later that I even realized the whole 6-volt / 12-volt mismatch... I kinda wondered why it always had such a lively starter... :lol:

Good luck with yours!

Kirk
 

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Eric, I have "converted" many bikes from 6 to 12 V systems......The lights of course will ALL need to be changed over (don't forget to change the instrument bulbs, and turn signal flasher too)...... The starter motors will USUALLY handle the "extra" power if the bike is kept-up and in tune so it starts easily, (extended cranking WILL overheat it)..... I do recommend you replace the solenoid with a 12V one though, (an e-start-only bike that has to be "jumped" to start is not desirable, at least for the ladies)...... I ALWAYS replace the coil with a 12V one, but simply adding a "MOPAR" ballast resistor may suffice...... The horn will usually handle the occaisional higher voltage but may be "shrill"......... A 12V regulator (like the ones you got for the 350) will help IF the 185 has such in circuit, most 6V systems don't use one at all......... On my 90, the max output from the charging circuit is 8.8VDC (at the battery), so I use a battery "tender" to insure full charge......You MAY want to perform a similar test to measure your peak charging output...... Steve
 
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