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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I ran across this yesterday, ended up bringing it home.
1982 CM200, 4,500 miles, clean title, $350, original except for Kreemed tank and godawful paint job.
Totally original, even the tires and plugs. Exhaust is solid, but pitted, wheels and spokes good, a bit of rust on the swingarm and frame in spots. Perfect seat.
I rode it around for 20 minutes or so - starts right up, runs good except for idle, when it wants the choke.
I figure the carb, but there's weirdness with this carb.
Check out the original plug - good color.

Now I know nothing about theses bikes - anybody else here know, especially the carb??????

Questions -

1) Anyone have a Manual???
2) Did these bikes NOT come with a centerstand???
2) The carb, especially the pilot screw
4) Tires, believe it or not. They're weird, converting to a 90/90/17 front and 100/90/16 rear. All I can seem to find are pretty cheap, nasty looking old style chunky tires.




 

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For $350 you can't go wrong and it looks in reasonable shape. That seat!!! Damn, that would look big on a gold wing. You won't have any trouble with butt sore riding that around town.

Congratulations on a good find.
 

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Sensei
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Bill, I have or have had both the 185 and 200 versions... (the engine is internally almost exactly the same as a 250 "Rebel" except for displacement and stroke, although the finning, etc. was changed in shape and size .......)So, a Rebel manual should suffice.....
I just sold a 200 carb right after cleaning it....What do you need to know about it? ... (YES, There is a jet in the small side tube (not just an emulsion tube) and the "hole" goes completely through along the centerline of the cylindrical shape) ....This is usually munged up solid and takes a "drill" made of two strands of copper from a 18 ga. stranded wire to clear it.... soaking doesn't work as the passage is too small......
 

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tbpmusic said:
1) Anyone have a Manual???
2) Did these bikes NOT come with a centerstand???
2) The carb, especially the pilot screw
4) Tires, believe it or not. They're weird, converting to a 90/90/17 front and 100/90/16 rear. All I can seem to find are pretty cheap, nasty looking old style chunky tires.

had a 80 for a short while
1 had one might be able to borrow it to copy revelant sections
2 nope no center stand
3 pisspoor carburation cold bloodedest bike I've ever dealt with, probably a good canidate for re-jetting,..... pilot screw is under the bottom in front of float bowl
4 keep looking maybe moped tires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
66Sprint said:
Bill, I have or have had both the 185 and 200 versions... (the engine is internally almost exactly the same as a 250 "Rebel" except for displacement and stroke, although the finning, etc. was changed in shape and size .......)So, a Rebel manual should suffice.....
I just sold a 200 carb right after cleaning it....What do you need to know about it? ... (YES, There is a jet in the small side tube (not just an emulsion tube) and the "hole" goes completely through along the centerline of the cylindrical shape) ....This is usually munged up solid and takes a "drill" made of two strands of copper from a 18 ga. stranded wire to clear it.... soaking doesn't work as the passage is too small......
So Steve - do you happen to have any of those manuals??

I haven't taken it apart, so what you are talking about drilling is a little obscure to me right now.

I did notice the pilot screw hanging down off the front of the carb, incredibly poor location - how in the world do you turn the screw??.
It seems to have some sort of limiter cap - can this be discarded??

Another question - the original rear tire is 3.50x16 - what do you think the biggest tire that will comfoetably go on that rim (ignoring clearance issues)?? The front was a 3.00x17.
 

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Sensei
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The mixture screw "needs" a geared angled screwdriver to adjust it... IF you take the cap off.... Supposedly it is factory preset to "close" and the amount of travel (about 1/4 turn) between the stops is enough to get it exact... (I take the cap off and use a small bent driver)
I was talking about the pilot jet which is integral with the smaller emulsion tube (side holes)...It has a "Jet" passage through the center that is usually munged solid.... This is similar in set-up to the main jet and holder in that the Jet hole (up through the center) is coupled with an emulsion area (side holes in the holder)... In the pilot example,it is all one piece, and the "Jet sized" passage gets filled with varnish so hard that it almost seems to NOT have a passage all the way thru..... I'm sure this is the source of your "won't idle without choke" problem.... Cleaning or a new pilot jet will cure this.....
As for tires, the original rear I had was a "Mag-Mopus" but I'm not sure of the size (I'll check tomorrow)... I'm running an IRC "ZAP" NR53 in 2.75 X 17 on the front (same tire I used on the rear for the pushrod 90 bike) and I believe it is available in a 3.00 size....
I don't have a manual, I just extrapolated (guessed) based on the 175's..... Ran fine....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
66Sprint said:
The mixture screw "needs" a geared angled screwdriver to adjust it... IF you take the cap off.... Supposedly it is factory preset to "close" and the amount of travel (about 1/4 turn) between the stops is enough to get it exact... (I take the cap off and use a small bent driver)
I was talking about the pilot jet which is integral with the smaller emulsion tube (side holes)...It has a "Jet" passage through the center that is usually munged solid.... This is similar in set-up to the main jet and holder in that the Jet hole (up through the center) is coupled with an emulsion area (side holes in the holder)... In the pilot example,it is all one piece, and the "Jet sized" passage gets filled with varnish so hard that it almost seems to NOT have a passage all the way thru..... I'm sure this is the source of your "won't idle without choke" problem.... Cleaning or a new pilot jet will cure this.....
Do you mean a screwdriver bit in a rachet??
Isn't the pilot jet pressed in (non-removable)???
Did you completely discard the cap on the limiter thing, or just remove it to tune??
 

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Sensei
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Would need a pic of your carbs guts... mine (pilot jet) screws in like the CB 200 carb
On SOME mixture screws the caps/stops were cast on, on some they just break off with a regular slot underneath.... need a pic of yours
 

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I've got nothing specific to contribute, other than I've owned two - a '78 185 and a '79 185. Great little bikes!! Neither of mine was cold-blooded here in hot central FL. The '78, I commuted 12K miles one year - 60 miles per day, 60 mph carrying my lard-butt, pushing a windshield. 65 mpg!

That huge seat - man, those bikes fit me perfectly - with the windshield and a "standard" bar, riding position was just great. Same bar without the windshield, had to use the passenger pegs at speed for a perfect riding position.

And $350? Not a bad deal at all.

Yep, weird-Alice tire sizes. I picked up two new ones cheeep from JCWhitney. Put 10K on 'em before needing new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just discovered this bike doen't have its foam air filter element at all, just wire screen. Don't know how long it's been like that.

Hmmmm.... wonder if that could cause it to want choke at idle??

Found some IRC tires at Dennis Kirk today. You have to take what you can get sometimes.

Pried loose a big chunk of bondo from the tank - got some work to do there before I can paint.....
 

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Just a quick thought here Bill. If you need to remove some old bondo, aircraft stripper if left to soak on the area a while, softens it up nicely so it can be scraped of with a putty knife in "layers". Then re-apply and scrape another layer. It really does make short work of someone else's crappy bondo job. I hate sanding.... ;)

GB :mrgreen:
 
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