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Discussion Starter #1
I didn’t have a kickstart lever on the bike when I bought it thinking the CB pipes on the CL bike interfered with the kick lever so the PO deleted it. Put one on and the kick lever would go down but needed to be manually lifted back up. I thought maybe I needed a spring... I pulled off the engine cover for a better look. What I saw didn’t make sense, but I really didn’t know what it should look like. Now that I look at it closely I think the plate on the kick shaft is bent 90*? And there’s a boss on the casing that looks damaged? Is it too far gone or could I reshape the little plate and it’ll grab what’s left? Oh, and I noticed something else missing as well... thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow. Ok I’ll pull the clutch down further to investigate that. Not sure about the pix, why they won’t enlarge. Ideas on that?
 

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To further explain, it looks like someone overtightened one of the clutch spring bolts - they bottom on the posts where the springs go that are part of the inner clutch hub - and broke off one of the posts.

Are you using an iPhone? If so, it's possible that your storage is close to full and they compress your pictures, leaving them looking like phone-sized screenshots. Also, for future reference, here's a little lore info on pictures posted here (though some things may change in the near future as we are moving to new software)

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/25-website-issues/120382-pictures-post-upside-down.html#post1008568
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I have a replacement clutch hub on it's way to me so that issue should be resolved shortly. Back to the kickstarter. I have uploaded these pix from my PC so you should be able to enlarge them now. Mine looks slightly different that anything I've seen on cmsnl or the internet.

Mine:

kickstart.jpg

All others I've seen:

kickstart ebay.jpg

The "stop" seems much different (and weaker) on mine. I think the issue with my kickstart is the "stop" slips by the casting which you can see is slightly damaged, not able to hold spring tension. But why is mine so much different?
 

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May be it's the pictures but I don't see the return spring hooked to the case. This is the later kickstarter K2-K5 so some things are different than yours
RIMG0351.jpg RIMG0352.jpg RIMG0353.jpg RIMG0349.jpg RIMG0350.jpg

This what your shaft looks like
K0 shaft.jpg K0 shaft 1.jpg K0 shaft 2.jpg
Here's the parts fiche for early and late
K0 assembly.jpg K1-5 assembly.jpg

Note that the late model shows 3 different kicker levers. The CL is #12 which won't work with CB exhaust so you need 13 or 14
 

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Discussion Starter #9
LDR thanks for the info. My stop tab on the shaft is different than anything you’ve posted. Most I’ve seen appear to have the stop as part of a forged hub, but my stop is part of a stamped plate which is about 1/8” thick. You are right the spring isn’t quite visible in the pix because it’s rotated clockwise slightly. The stop has slipped by its place on the embossed casting, damaging the boss and bending the stop tab. So I’m trying to determine if I can repair this area. My plan is to drill a hole into the damaged area and fit a long roll pin in there, protruding out slightly to the area that’s missing. Then fill in the area behind it with something like JB Weld or similar to give it extra support. The only other option I see is replacing the lower case. Thoughts on it all??
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I took the bull by the horns and decided to try this idea. I drilled a deep hole into the chipped boss area and fitted a roll pin with red loctite. I then used some high heat JB Weld and formed it around the pin. The finished product looks pretty good I think. The question is durability. I believe the pin itself is seated deep enough to be robust and the JB is supposed to be strong enough to drill and tap (as per their claims) so hopefully will be tough enough. The only other option was to change out the lower case so I don’t think I’ve lost anything if this doesn’t work out.
I’d also like a comment or two on image size. Is this an improvement over my recent image sizing?
 

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Hopefully that will work out. If not it appears by parts number search that the lower case from any year 350 will work and it also appears that the later kickstarter assembly can be installed. What you have now is a one year version, so to my thinking Honda made a complete assembly change over for a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks LDR. Interesting that was a one year design. What year?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The JB Weld repair around the Kickstarter stop appears to be alright at this point so ive buttoned it back up and the kicker is performing as it should. Now to monitor for durability...
 
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