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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1971 cl450
Ricks hot shot regulator rectifier.

Hey so my battery dies when I use my headlight. I'm not sure that I'm getting full charging power. I would like to do the charging mod of connecting the yellow and white right out of the stator. That would leave me with two wires to plug into this 3 prong "hot shot" regulator rectifier unit. How do I go about making my bike have full charging power all the time? I feel like I have to be close but I can't seem to wrap my head around it. I tried to include a pic to help explain. Anyone? Thanks
 

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Are you actually referring to the mod where you connect the yellow and white leads together in the headlight bucket to get the always on full charge? Because if so then that's all that that is.
I am not familiar with Rick's "hot shot" R/R so I have no idea what this 3 prong connector you are referring to is.

See here for that charging mod
http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/2-...nda-twin-topics/6032-charging-system-mod.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am referring to that mod. Those wires are no longer in my harness after connecting to the regulator rectifier unit. The " ricks hot shot" regulator rectifier has 3 AC leads that are instructed to connect to my white, yellow, and pink from stator. Can i bridge the yellow and white wires down by the stator to obtain that charging mod? That will leave me with three wires to plug into the regulator rectifier. Does that work?
 

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Not sure if the aftermarket stuff for the 450s is the same as for the 350s/360s in that the charging mods are usually completed internally on aftermarket equipment (e.g., it might be bridged already in the regulator), but that may be worth checking before you cut into anything.
 

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That R/R is meant for 3-phase stators, while ours is a single phase with two coils in parallel. That really doesn't matter, though, as the diode arrangement effectively includes the charging mod described above - both output coils are driving the R/R all the time. Your charging problem lies elsewhere. What Wattage headlamp, the stock 25W/35W sealed beam? Are all your battery connections clean and tight, especially the grounds? Any other mods to the electrical system? Are you maintaining the rpm above 2000 most of the time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks That's what I was looking for. that was helpful. I actually have a 35/35w headlight. I'll go back to stock headlight size and see how it goes
 

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If connections are good, like new, the rpm that charging begins with a 35W lamp is 1800, as stated in the service manual. Anything less than that will slowly discharge the battery. The break-even rpm could be slightly reduced by using silicon, rather than selenium, but not by much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
My lights consist of headlight (off/low,high), stock gaugues, stock taillight/tag light. No turn signals. Im kickstart only. The headlight is a 7" with a h4 type plug. I have removed the white and yellow wires from the harness, so in my headlight bucket and/or the right hand control, I don't get that contact of yellow to white when I turn my lights on. You say thats okay because the R/R I have makes the connection always? Sorry if I'm being repetitive, just trying to be sure. Thank you.
 

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If you have all 3 wires from the stator connected to the 3 inputs of the R/R, then you have the full (lights on) output of the stator going through the R/R; no need for the yellow/white wires. Make sure the R/R has a good, clean ground to the battery, and the output wire to the battery is also clean and tight, else, the charging will suffer for it. At 3000rpm, you should see over 14V, measured at the battery, with the lights off, perhaps about 13.5-13.8 lights on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's working. I went over all the connections/grounds and made sure things were secure. Rode for about 15 minutes with all my lights on and my battery was at 13.2v when I got back and checked it. It seemed more powerful than before. I assume that is because the battery wasn't steady draining like before. Thanks
 

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Did you check the ground connection at the frame, where the rear motor mounts attach? That one is often overlooked, and can really affect the starter motor. A good cleaning with a brass brush and contact cleaner, like De-Oxit, can make a huge difference in cranking speed.
 
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