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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Honda ignition switch and fork lock that I'm trying to figure out what model they came from and what I can use them for. The number on the ignition switch and fork lock is 8DH23B and the keys have 23B on them. Is this enough info to figure out what models this would work with? I can also get pictures if that would help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did some searching myself and it seems to be similar to a CB77 key switch. If this is what it is, does anybody know if it can be used on a CL77? A CL77 is what I need a key switch for.
 

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According to the 1966 CL77 parts catalog: CL724836AS1 is the old part number 35010-273-010 is the new part number
According to the CA77 Dream 305 parts catalog: 35010-202-000 fits CA77-10001 to CA77-20902 and 35010-272-000 fits CA77-100001 to end of production
If the pictures in the catalogs are true then the CL77 is mounted with 2 screws through tabs on the switch body and the CA77 Dream is a single nut like in your picture.
 

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Not sure if my situation is unique, but I lost my original keys and bought an EMGO universal ignition switch a while back. The EMGO key did not have a keycode stamped on it. Surprisingly, what I have found is that the key only needs to be put into the fork lock about 1/3 to 1/2 way to engage it.
 

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Not sure if my situation is unique, but I lost my original keys and bought an EMGO universal ignition switch a while back. The EMGO key did not have a keycode stamped on it. Surprisingly, what I have found is that the key only needs to be put into the fork lock about 1/3 to 1/2 way to engage it.
I would remove the fork lock and check to make sure that all of the tabs are actually moving, you may have some at the top that are stuck in the unlock/recessed position. If that's the case then one day after you've lubed the lock and used it the tabs will unstick and your key may no longer work. Removal is just a case of removing the cap, inserting the key and turning the lock cylinder to drop out. The cap keeps the cylinder in position and the tabs are what actually keep the cylinder in the housing.
 

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I would remove the fork lock and check to make sure that all of the tabs are actually moving, you may have some at the top that are stuck in the unlock/recessed position. If that's the case then one day after you've lubed the lock and used it the tabs will unstick and your key may no longer work. Removal is just a case of removing the cap, inserting the key and turning the lock cylinder to drop out. The cap keeps the cylinder in position and the tabs are what actually keep the cylinder in the housing.
Might need to do some further fine detail cleaning then. I popped the fork lock assembly off the lower triple as part of my powdercoating prep work. I found that the same thing happened after a quick cleaning with a rag.
 
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