[jamesA]

I've been searching for hours trying to find an accurate schematic of the forks I have (I was told they came off of a CB350). I'm working on restoring a 1971 CL350 K3 and was hoping I could use these forks. Here are some photos of what I'm working with:











Did these forks actually come from a CB350? What is really confusing me is the very last image here. I can't seem to find a schematic that has those two specific rods with the holes (dampers?). I disassembled everything to clean it and those rods were held in place with a screw and copper washer, which you can kind of see in that last image. They were inside the bottom of the fork tubes but actually screwed into the bottom of the fork legs. I can't find ANYTHING related to these rods besides one listing on ebay that also said claimed they were from a CB350. Anyway, I just wanted to make sure these are okay to use with the CL350 and also ask if anyone knows why there's no schematic available that shows this part? Thank you in advance!

 

[Scotto75]

I have a ‘73 CL350 k3 masquerading as a CB350 and parts are mostly the same. Both the exploded diagrams for the CB and CL K0 - k4 are here at www.cmsnl.com

The CL350 k3

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partsl...sa-front-fork-cl-k3_bighu0028f400702_f1b0.gif

The CB350 k0

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partsl...hion-under-cover-type_bigma000103f04_3737.gif

There’s nothing that really resembles your tube. The tube being bolted from the bottom could maybe more like either the later 73-5 G models?

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partsl...t-1973-usa-front-fork_bighu0059f5009_cf4a.gif

Or the 360 maybe?

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partsl...t-1974-usa-front-fork_bighu0231f9007_cfe1.gif

Hopefully someone will recognise the model they’re from, but personally not sure they’re from a CL350.

 

[middletons]

Those are from an early 350. Stepped tube tops and outside springs. If the lowers have the correct mounting points for your fender and brakes, you have the proper upper yoke, and the tube diameter is correct, use em.

Honda sometimes wasn't great about their parts diagrams. These forks also use different shrouds/headlights mount ears than later forks.

 

[Boomer343]

As above, they look like all the other early forks I've taken apart. Put a little sealant on the screw that holds them into the fork leg, keeps the fork oil from weeping. I use my 18 volt impact gun to set the screws.

 

[Alan F.]

I took a look too and those dampeners with the aluminum "oil lock piece" that bolts between the damper and the inside bottom of the fork lower look incomplete. The 350G and 360 have a rod connected to the top of that damper tube, threaded at the top with a locknut at the top of the spring to hold it all together. Later the damper had a flanged top with a 'piston ring' still common today.
I don't see what keeps your forks together when assembled (let alone limit travel).

 

[ancientdad]

On the older forks, sometimes the circlip above the seal was all that held them together - we used to use the lower fork leg as a "slide hammer" to get the seals out, sometimes with the upper tubes still in the upper and lower clamps on the bike

 

[middletons]

he has all the parts. As AD says above, circlip holds the tubes in.

 

[83XLX]

On the older forks, sometimes the circlip above the seal was all that held them together - wee used to use the lower fork leg as a "slide hammer" to get the seals out, sometimes with the upper tubes still in the upper and lower clamps on the bike

Exactly! They are the earlier external spring 350 forks. The only thing that holds the sliders on are the large circlips shown in your 4th picture. The old "slide hammer" routine...I know it well.

 

[jamesA]

Those are from an early 350. Stepped tube tops and outside springs. If the lowers have the correct mounting points for your fender and brakes, you have the proper upper yoke, and the tube diameter is correct, use em.

Honda sometimes wasn't great about their parts diagrams. These forks also use different shrouds/headlights mount ears than later forks.

Interesting. I'm surprised they were so bad with the diagrams as this seems like a pretty significant part!

As above, they look like all the other early forks I've taken apart. Put a little sealant on the screw that holds them into the fork leg, keeps the fork oil from weeping. I use my 18 volt impact gun to set the screws.

Thank you for the advice! What kind of sealant do you recommend? Red loctite or would that be too intense?

Exactly! They are the earlier external spring 350 forks. The only thing that holds the sliders on are the large circlips shown in your 4th picture. The old "slide hammer" routine...I know it well.

Haha the "slide hammer" is how I had to get the old ones off. Saw a post around here about that technique.


Thank you all for the advice and confirmation that these forks are good to go.

 

[Alan F.]

I'd use blue loctite. Red is permanent and the screw will be Very Difficult to remove if anyone ever needs to.

 

[Boomer343]

I would hesitate to use thread locker on that fastener as you have no way to hold the inner piece the next time you want to remove it..... or be cursed by the next owner who in 2060 is rebuilding them.

I just use whatever sealant I have handy at the time, Honda Bond, thin coating of RTV Silicone, pipe joint sealant. It's just to keep the fluid from weeping as those little copper crush washers are considered one shot use.

Edit to add .... you still use the copper washer ... the sealant doesn't replace it.

 

[05c50]

No sealant is necessary, there should be a copper crush washer that will seal it. If you locktite it, the next person to take it apart (might be you) will curse you. A little aviation cement (non hardenig Permatex) will work.

.....Paul