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A radiator shop may be a good idea too? It could'nt hurt to give them a call if you have one that's local.

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Yup Bill is right. Methyl Ethyl Ketone is the solvent for the tank liner. And it IS nasty stuff...don't breathe those fumes in and make sure you have a big rubbermaid tub or some other large sealable container to dispose of the stuff in...maybe the local firehall will take hazardous waste?
As for the qtip ends??? Dunno...I used golf tees to plug the fuel taps... maybe the MEK will eat thru the cotton ends??? Dental picks perhaps, to try to hook em outta there??? or a guitar string and push em back up into the tank???

As you've already found out, the inside of the tank has to be PRISTINE before those pour in liners will adhere to the metal. Completely rust/ grease/ gas/ acid/ soap-FREE. I had to re-do mine as well due to poor prep. :( And then the real kick in the teeth was the guy who painted my tank, didn't seal the gas cap opening when he sandblasted the tank for paint, and he blasted away some of the liner on the high points of the inside of the tank... :evil: :twisted:
 

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I did a little research on this, as I've never actually used POR (on a tank) myself.
Apparently this stuff is nearly impossible to get off once it's dried.
I can't really guarantee that MEK would do it, since I never tried it.

The info suggests that POR works great if it's done right, and a disaster if not.
Most info actually suggests sandblasting to remove it- which you can't do to the inside of a tank.

I'm a RedKote guy myself, wish I could give you some sage advice, but....

I think you can kiss your crossover lines goodbye, possibly the whole tank, if the MEK doesn't work.
 

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Oops...I read 'tank liner' and assumed they were all the same. I used the Kreem Product and MEK was indeed the product to clean up with. I hope yer wrong Bill...for kdans' sake! ;)
 

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Get a piece of old speedo or tach cable, cut a section about3 or 4 inches long, chuck it up in a drill and ream em out. no huge deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well here's what happened so far. I bought a gallon of MEK at Sherwin Williams (once I convinced them I wasn't making anything in a meth lab, as they keep in behind the counter now and you have to request it and show ID) I put some in the tank three different times. It seems to have gotten most of it out. There is still some in there but not too much left. The little bit that is left in there seems to be bonded to the inside of the tank pretty well and I don't think it is going to come loose.

To get the q-tips out, I straitened the tubes a bit and took a thin nail and pounded in through. The once side cleared out, but the other side cracked where the tube and the tank join and now has a small leak. I'm thinking maybe it can be JB welded or welded by someone who knows what they're doing. So now I have a semi clean tank with a little bit of Por 15 in it and a crack on the bottom. I bought some more sealer, this time KBS. I'm not sure if I want to try it again or just buy a new "old" tank on ebay and start all over. Any suggestions? I've now got about 80 dollars wrapped up in trying to seal the same rusty tank. :oops:
 

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kdan311 said:
well here's what happened so far. I bought a gallon of MEK at Sherwin Williams (once I convinced them I wasn't making anything in a meth lab, as they keep in behind the counter now and you have to request it and show ID) I put some in the tank three different times. It seems to have gotten most of it out. There is still some in there but not too much left. The little bit that is left in there seems to be bonded to the inside of the tank pretty well and I don't think it is going to come loose.

To get the q-tips out, I straitened the tubes a bit and took a thin nail and pounded in through. The once side cleared out, but the other side cracked where the tube and the tank join and now has a small leak. I'm thinking maybe it can be JB welded or welded by someone who knows what they're doing. So now I have a semi clean tank with a little bit of Por 15 in it and a crack on the bottom. I bought some more sealer, this time KBS. I'm not sure if I want to try it again or just buy a new "old" tank on ebay and start all over. Any suggestions? I've now got about 80 dollars wrapped up in trying to seal the same rusty tank. :oops:
MEK is some good stuff..or bad depending on how you look at it. We used it alot in aviation ...i mean you could taste the vapors from that stuff if not wearing proper protection. Nevertheless is the stuff to have when you want to "cut" into a substance.
 

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A spot of braze or even silver-bearing solder will fix the crack.... Do NOT use JB weld or the like......
 

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like 66Sprint said, dont use jbweld, i know from experience that gas will leak thru it, i have a gas tank from my old land rover with jb weld all along the side seams, and it still leaks, twas a good waste of $10 and my time :(

i do have some por15 im going to use on it though

jbweld makes waterproof/gas proof jbweld that is a putty that is supposed to work but i have not tried it
 

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the balance tube is a tough area to not clog up.

when i got my 350 on the road both of mine were clogged with rust before coating. i took some solid strand 00 gauge wire and stripped it down to the 15 wires,and used one of those, and about 3 cans of carb spray, and compressed air to break mine free.

I did a por 15 kit as well, as i love their products for hot rods i've done in the past. I filled both of the tubes up with grease. Seemed to work ok.


Jason
 
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