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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have RTW02 to thank for giving me the "hot tip" on this one Bought it from a nice couple in Kelowna who let me have it for a decent price for both parties, this is going to be a stock resto but not concours enough to break the bank.... a rider shall we say.

Let the fun begin.... caved in tank on this side, anyone have a spare getting in the way?






Luckily it's all there with relatively low mileage, but engine is seized $



This better reflects the general overall condition.



I will be the new guy asking all the dumb questions :ugeek:

Just for fun I will include a link to my last build.... a 71 Kawasaki H1 with a twist http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=507148
 

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Gorgeous bike. I'll trade you a tank for those pipes. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Those pipes are not as good as they look and will require some "creative fabrication" to patch up ugly weld blobs someone gobbed on the top to try and hide some rust holes.

I think I know the answer to my first questions but....
Does the rear passenger peg and rear brake pivot point looked bent? Sure appears like it to me.





next is the drive chain does not appear to have a master link and I would think this era was before endless chains and the chain shouldn't have had to be changed at such low mileage but I can't find a master link on either side of the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Todays chore was to see why the engine was stuck, aaaha just as I expected



Top end doesn't look too bad





So after a few days soaking the cylinders were reluctant to come off.... time for some friendly persuasion



a flawless execution, took some leverage and tapping as the right piston was real bad




The helpless victim






The piston and cylinder fate will be determined with some measuring, anyone been able to reuse stuff that looked this trashed before?
 

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Once you clean up the pistons and cylinders, you may find they're not as bad as you think. My engine looked worse than that when I took it apart - lots of rusty gunk everywhere, badly stuck piston - but it all measures to spec and isn't scratched up or anything. I'm still working on getting one and a half stuck rings out of the one piston though.
 

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bake said:
Todays chore was to see why the engine was stuck, aaaha just as I expected



Top end doesn't look too bad





So after a few days soaking the cylinders were reluctant to come off.... time for some friendly persuasion



a flawless execution, took some leverage and tapping as the right piston was real bad




The helpless victim






The piston and cylinder fate will be determined with some measuring, anyone been able to reuse stuff that looked this trashed before?
What was it Sir Issac Newton said, "Give me a lever long enough and a stable fulcrum, then I will lift the world"
 

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Frankmowthelawn said:
[attachment=0:2af61bl5]81692056[1].jpg[/attachment:2af61bl5]

Cool!! Motorcycle bondage!! Gives me shivverrs!! :cool:

FMTL
Steady there Frank :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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But Nige, LOOk at it!! He's got a special table, implements and straps to hold her down while he has his way with 'er!!!

OOOOOHHH! :shock:

FMTL
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the laughs lads

Rods don't look too bad


Piston rings stuck big time, notice the bent oil control ring. Now how do you get the seized rings out? For the first time I broke a ring trying to get it out, this was the "good" piston (read less seized) :mrgreen:



As soon as I can free the rings a friend will do some measuring for me.
 

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bake said:
Nice old Honda.....WOW !!! Is that your Multistrada in the background ???
 

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Rust hates penetrating oil, HEAT, and vibration. I'd soak that sucker a little longer in something that likes to eat rust. Small amount of heat or just tapping on that ring carefully can help too, its broken already. Patience is the key, don't need to go beating the crap out of it.
 

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Soak them in PB Blaster or Kroil and use a piece of broken ring ground square on the end and a small hammer to tap away till the ring loosens enough to pull out. The operative word is "tap". The ring is hardened steel and the piston is aluminum. If you beat on it you'll end up buying new pistons instead of just the rings. Take your time and be gentle. It took years for the rings to get this way, you aren't going to get them out in a couple of minutes.

FMTL
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Rich, you got it.... a 2011 and what a treat to ride, still makes me giggle like a schoolgirl every twist of the throttle.

Meanwhile back at the ranch... inside the centrifuge and no that is not my handy work :D


it gets better

oil drain bolt

and no again.... I cannot take credit for the alternative tool work.

But on the brighter side of things
Tranny looked good, bearings good... whew

Shift forks are decent


But the biggest prize is the crank looks good, bearings check out and I don't have to worry about sending it out and spending a ton o cash (I remember my Mach 3 costing $1000 for a crank rebuild)

 

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Man, the owner(s) sure were ham fisted with the wrong tools when working on that motor.
 

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Wow, that handywork is really something to look at. Wonder what happened to that poor bike?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Still not wine and roses (yet)

just 1 rocker is worn, guess it's not a surprise the last owner probably set them with playdo


Did a quick cylinder hone but just couldn't get some rust out, closer investigation reveals new pistons and a bore are in my future.... anyone have a source for pistons for these?

Last bit of news for the day, the rear brake looked suspicious and every time I pressed the pedal the centerstand would move.... after a lot of persuasion I got the rod out and you can see just how badly it's bent, anyone have a spare?

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Time for some good news.... tach works


speedo works


Almost complete teardown...... a flawless execution


but I cant take the front end apart until I solve a mystery only you can help me with, my headlight bucket measures about 7 7/8"



but I think it's the wrong bucket as it makes the fork ears go off on a weird angle (more than 90 degrees off the forks)

So just how wide should the headlight bucket measure on a known stock one, even a measurement for a CB would do here lads.
 

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I have a 450 bucket that I put on my 360, its plastic type. Measures the same, 450, 500t, 500f, 550f, 750f, gl1000s of those years all had the same size buckets, 7 1/4" Headlight bulb, 7 3/4" wide buckets. I mentioned the Gl1000 because they had a chrome metal one. I spent a month researching the change for my bike because it has the smaller size light and replacements are impossible to find cheap.
 
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