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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm attempting to replace the oil seals on my front forks. Simply little job, right? Right?

I have the forks off the bike, dust boot removed, circlip/retaining clip removed above the oil seal...and that's about it. Feeling pretty good about myself at this point. I didn't see a way of removing the seal easily, so I assumed that I have to dismantle the entire fork. (I realize I could be completely wrong in my assumptions) So next I thought "well hell there's just this one little phillips head screw at the the bottom let's get my screwdriver out and start diggin." No go. On too tight. Never fear I have an impact driver. What follows next is 2 snapped impact bits and a stripped out screw. Now, I'm starting to sweat. I run over and grab my drill and eazyouts. Being really careful started this process. Then I tapped the eazyout with a hammer and the god damn thing snapped off. Let's just say at that moment I wasn't a big fan of Harbor Freight.

So that's where I'm at. Any guidance here? I'd love somebody to tell me not to worry at all about that bottom screw that appears to be stuck in that spot til the end of time, and just dig the old seal out and pound the new one in. But I have a feeling that isn't going to be the case. So PLEASE, I'd love some insight.

Thank you.
 

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well... get a better impact driver... I bought mine at a flea market, it's gotta be 40 years old and is one of the most indestructable tools in my shop. second, if you have a really stuck screw or bolt like that, try getting a hardened steel rod, old scrap wristpins are great to keep around for this, put the rod on the screw and smack it with a hammer, usually the shock will de-weld the threads from the base metal and it will turn right out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Believe me it's on the list. But as for this little project it's a little late, I have the tip of an easy out lodged in where the phillips head use to be.
 

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Sensei
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That "little" phillips is just the drain screw.....On SOME forks, you have to remove the allen bolt in the bottom of the leg to free the damper rod, and the tube will just slide out.....On the forks you don't have to do that, the tubes must be slammed to full extension (usually repeatedly) to drive the seals out.....
 

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The best way to getbthose Allen head screws out at the bottom of the fork is with an air impact. Make sure you have it set to loosen and not tighten because you could do more harm than good. Trust me, I know. :oops:
Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
somebody must have replaced the allen screws at some point with phillips screws. No big deal though, I just won't remove the damper.

@66 - Thanks for the guide...they came right out. I appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also, does anybody know the size of oil seals I'll need for this bike? I see some on bikebandit.com but I am suspecting they are for the K1s.
 

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You would probably be best to measure the old ones. Or take them to your local bearing supply house and they will measure them for you and can sell them to you. Sometimes for cheaper than you would expect and possibly a bit fresher than NOS seals that have been sitting for some time on a shelf.
Don
 

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Sensei
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IF Phillips screws are hiding in the holes hidden by the axle, they are stock, and you do NOT have to loosen the damper rods...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got it. That's the route I took. Thanks again for your help. Now I'm on the hunt for some seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok. I got the seals in. I carefully put them on over the shaft being very careful not to ding them. I pushed them down in and inserted the retaining clip.

PROBLEM...

Both of the forks now leak at the oil seal. Here are my guesses.

1) Too much oil? I put in approx 190cc...Is there anyway to check if I put too much in?
2) Wrong Oil Seal? I used Honda OEM 91255-286-003
3) Didn't push the seal down far enough? Is this even possible, if I was able to get the retaining clip to seat?

Please help.

Thank you!
 

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Sensei
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My guess would be you put them in upside down.....Seals are directional and depend on pressure inside the lip to help force it to seal...... Spring goes on oil side....
 

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...???? I've never seen both seals leak after replacement unless they were backwards, and didn't want to suggest you put them in wrong, but that's all I could come up with... (assuming the tubes aren't damaged)
I don't have an SL fische, so I assume you ordered/got the correct ones for your "K"...
Was there a large washer on top of the seal before/under the retaining ring ?
I'm grasping at straws... Only thing I can think of now is the seal can move up and down with the tube..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nope, no washer. I guess, I'll call my local honda dealership and double check the part #.

Just to make sure that I didn't put the seals in the wrong way. The hollow ridge, where you can see the spring is on the inside of the tube. That's correct right?
 

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Sensei
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Yes, That should be correct...(assuming "inside the tube" means inside the aluminum slider....The oil fills the "hollow" and as it is forced (hydraulic pressure) it causes the "squeegie" edge of the seal to grip tighter, sealing better....

Were there any (even minor) imperfections in the surface of the steel tubes?... Even a small nick or scratch can cut the sharp edge of the seal....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I was warned about that so I took extra care to find any rough spots. Only other thing I can think of...I read a couple posts about people using pvc pipe to push the seals in. I didn't do that, I was able to push them down far enough to get the retaining clip in. Maybe they aren't in far enough? Is that possible?
 

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I don't know how you were able to just push those seals in without a driver of some sort, but if you were able to get the clip in, they're seated deep enough. Also, if you do have them right side up (spring facing down), I can think of a possible reason for the leaking. If you weren't careful initially sliding them over the tubes on top, you could have cut or damaged the lips enough to cause leaks. The best way to prevent that from happening is to slide them over a peice of grocery store plastic bag placed first on top of the tube, and lubricate the seal lips and fork legs with some fork oil so they slide easily. I learned that tip from RaceTech Suspension's how-to videos, and it works. Sounds like you'll need another pair of seals and will have to try again. A picture of how they look right now might help us to help you, if you're able...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Funny you say that. The dealership where I picked up the seals suggested doing the exact same thing. I followed that procedure also...

???
 

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There aren't any possibilities left! If they're the correct seals, if they're oriented right side up, if your tubes didn't scratch them, if you slipped them over the top of the tubes correctly, and if you didn't damage them seating them home, what's left? I'm leaning towards other's opinions on them being installed upside down.

On a side note, did your fork bottom damper rod fasteners (phillips screws) have a copper sealing washer on each, or did you use a sealing agent to prevent leaks from the bottom?
 
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