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Discussion Starter #1
Just got one 1974 CB360. It is in no-running condition.

I will tune up it and let it run first.

My question is :

where to buy thoese tune-up stuff like battery,spark plug, oil, oil filter, air filter?(Auto-Zone,NApa,or no-line)

Allso, there is rust inside of the gas tank. Any one know how to clear it out?

I will upload pictures later.

Thanks.
 

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I have used a product called Kreem. It's is a three step process. Very easy to follow directions on the bottles. I'm very satisfied with the results. I used it on the bike I'm restoring now, check out the "My 72 CB350 project is under way" thread. Before and after photos will soon be posted.

Matt
 

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I've never used a tank sealer. I always clean mine out and then just try to keep it full to avoid further rusting. Inline fuel filters are a must using my method though. Some people use "Milkstone Remover" from a local farm supply store and have great results as far as cleaning goes. Others here know more about the cleaning process with Milkstone remover. I've never had to use it. I always used a handful of clean gravel or bolts/nuts and a bunch of parts cleaner solution. The NON-FLAMMABLE variety. Insert nuts/gravel/bolts and then pour it 1/4th full and shake it baby!!!

I prefer using nuts/bolts, that way I can count them first just to verify that I've got them all out later.

Never had any problems...

Additionally, some people prefer to use Red Kote as a sealer. Others here will chime in soon to help.

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Nope - I've never use a tank coating / sealer, as I've had to clean too many of 'em back out years down the road when they fail...

I use the 1" drywall screw (very sharp & pointy) and diesel fuel and shake method. And in-line filters after that.

But, I also have a tank that Bill Lane cleaned using the Milkstone remover, and I'm impressed by that, too.



As for the other stuff: JCWhitney, Dennis Kirk and Bikebandit online are my favorites for internet sources. For batteries, I just go to the local WalMart or even AutoZone. For oil, plugs & tune-up stuff, I like local bike shops (non-dealers). No oil filter on the 360 - just a centrifugal 'slinger' that you dismantle and clean every so often. All these sources overlap - you can get it from multiple sources.

Good luck and have fun with it.

You should probably pick up a service manual for it, too. Clymer or Haynes or even Honda. Might find a Honda manual online for free somewhere.

Kirk
 

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An interesting story about that tank, Kirk -
It was rusted as bad as any I've ever seen, I mean real bad.
My first pass at it was to put in a whole bunch of dry wall screws, thinking I'd shake it up, etc....

Much to my dismay, the screws all basically just disappeared - shake as I might, I could hear nothing at all. I turned it upside down and nothing fell out except rust. It was like the rust had assimilated all the screws, like the Borg or something.

Then I filled it with MSR (50%) and let it work for an entire week - drained and replaced it with fresh and gave it three full days.
Finally, the rust was gone and I saw the screws again, a bit worse for the wear, but still in there.
I honestly thought that tank was a throwaway, but the MSR saved the day.
Now I keep a big 60-quart cooler of the stuff, and process nearly everything through it.
It's my BFF in our eternal battle with rust, the Devil's curse on bikers.

Now that CB200 tank gets a new life on your cafe build.

Very cool.......
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great folks and website.

This 1974 CB360 is my adventure bike.

I have too much thing to learn and will have many questions to ask.

This weekend I will clear it up and take close look to see what I need to do first.

Many thanks.
 

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LOL! :lol:

Bill, I knew you'd pasted links for the 175 & 200 and 350 and 450 bikes any number of times, but I couldn't remember if you'd posted a link to a 360 manual.

And I was too lazy to search... :D

Thanks,

Kirk
 

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No problem, Kirk.

I have downloaded a truckload of manuals to this site, early on.
but due to technical difficulties, we haven't yet been able to provide quick and easy access to them.
Maybe the new place (combined sites, .net plus .com) will have access to them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here are pics and questions:

1: This is what it looks like.






Serial number on the frame:CB360-100XXX and Engine number CB360E-100XXX( this means 1974 CB360, right?).




2: misc parts.

Oil tanks(2) and seat.





question:

There are two gas tanks. One with petcock, another one without petcock.I guess the one without petcock is for CB360. The one with petcock is for CB350. rIGHT?
If so, Can I use the cb350'S petcock for C360?.



pART1 AND PART2 are air filter element and cover. But one of the air filter element was lost. Where I can get one?

Part3 is port cover.

I do not know what are Part4,part5,part6,part7,part9(piece of rubber) for and it is name.

part8 is carbs for CB350 ?.

Thanks.
 

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Yes, you have a 1974 CB 360 G..... (your serials should have one more digit)
The "greenish" tank is a CB360 tank...The "bluish" one is a CL 350 tank (K5), and you should be able to swap the petcock....
Part3 is the points cover
Part 4 is the coil bracket and condensers
Part 8 is a 350 carb
Part 9 is a rubber sleeve that goes on the aircleaner crossover (underneath the battery)

I can't see the wire colors, or identify the brackets from the pictured angle.... maybe someone else has better eyes....I don't believe part 7 is a stock part.... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Glad to know that I can use the 350's petcock on 360.

The wire was messed up and I took some pictures.

Pic 1:


Pic 2:



In Pic1. The wire #1 is come from right side coil(part #6). By the way, part 5(in pic 1) and part 6(in pic 2) should be coils, right?.
wire #2 is come from left side coil(part 5).
wire #3 and #4 is connected together.

How they should connect each other or somewhere?


Also, in pic2, what the part #7 and where it should be loacted? It just hang there when I got the bike.
thanks.
 

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This is how the coils and points should be connected.... First, bolt part #7 to a good ground, that is the condensers (capacitors) for the ignition.(there should be two matching holes on top of the coil bracket)... The Blue point wire connects to the blue condenser wire and to the blue wire on the R/H coil.... The Yellow point wire connects to the yellow condenser wire and to the yellow wire on the L/H coil.
The other coil wires should both be Black with a white stripe..... They connect together and to the Black/white stripe wire going to the "kill" switch.... The solid black wire that also goes to the "kill" brings in power from the battery, through the ignition (main) switch.......

BTW, the points nearest the front of the engine (exhaust side)are for the left coil (as you sit on bike)....The other points (nearest carbs) are for the right side.... actual wire color does not really matter as long as the left/right orientations are maintained....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
More wire trouble and questions:

parts name and where they should be mounted?









part2 and part3. I do not know where the circled wird should go. It seems splices to part2.



part1 and part 4.



poits(It looks correct ? ) :




Honestly,I know nothing about CB360's harness. Unfortunaterly, it was messed up and need to be relocated and repared.

SO, IF any one have PICTURES that show where/how these harness part has been spliced and located, please post here and help me out it.

Thanks for all your help.
 

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Part 1 is the Voltage regulator (limits voltage to prevent battery overcharge)
Part 2 is the Flasher module (for the turn signals)
Part 3 is the Rectifier ( changes the AC voltage from the alternator into DC for the battery)
Part 4 is The solenoid switch (for electric start ...)

Part 3 is correctly mounted on the battery box
Part 1 mounts on the bolts on the tabs on the air crossover tube on the bottom of the battery box....Make SURE the rubber cushions are good and the metal casing DOES NOT ground through those bolts! If it does, the regulator WILL BURN UP!
Part 2 should mount in a rubber loop and also NOT be grounded, and the "extra" wire is an extra (NOT USED)...
Part 4 also mounts in a rubber carrier off the battery box (will look like two vertical blades, the correct distance apart to fit the slots in the rubber)

The points look correct, but the coils should be checked to see if they "feed" the correct spark-plug, and you need the condensers hooked in and grounded.......(follow the yellow point wire... it should go to the condenser yellow wire and to the coil that is hooked to the spark-plug right under the points)

ALSO, "looking" correct is NOT sufficient for points...they must be clean and adjusted to within specs as well as "hooked-up" correctly.......

I assume you are trying to get the bike to start (run) and I can tell you how to wire it eliminating most of the harness, just to "check"it out....Just ask....
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #17
66Sprint said:
I assume you are trying to get the bike to start (run) and I can tell you how to wire it eliminating most of the harness, just to "check"it out....Just ask....
Steve
Yes. My plan is let it run first then.......

Any one have a 1974 CB360 parts list(pdf file) or user manual ? I google one for Cb350. But did not found any one for CB360.

Thanks.
 

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OK then..... You will need some jumper cables, and at least one 16 ga wire with alligator clips on both ends, a good battery (the car one will do)and some fuel in the carbs.....

Hook the negative side of the battery to a good ground on the bike (like an engine mount bolt)with the negative jumper

With the points wired to the condensers and coils as discribed before, Hook one alligator clip to BOTH Black/white stripe wires on the coils ( they should already be unplugged from the main harness at this time...)
Remove or move the rubber boot on/at the starter motor so you can see the "bolt" (terminal) and heavy wire......
When you connect the other end of the alligator clip wire to the Positive jumper (from the battery+), the system is "hot-wired" and "live"...... either kickstart the bike, or touch the positive jumper to the "bolt" you exposed on the starter motor....(make sure it doesn't ground to the frame!)....The engine should spin over ....opening the throttle (about 1/4 of the way), should allow it to start and run..... Once it starts, remove the jumper from the starter-motor "bolt", but keep/leave the alligator wire connected to it...Bike should continue to run.....

NOTE: A SMALL "puff" of ether (starting fluid) may facilitate the original starting, the choke may also help.....
 

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Search this very thread for a link to the 360 manual.

Bill Lane (tbpmusic) has posted a link to it (hosted on his own site) a few replies ago. Back on page 1? Well, the repair manual anyway.

For parts diagrams and lists, go to www.bikebandit.com They have all the diagrams for all the bikes. That's how you order the parts you want from them, but you can also save the diagrams to your own computer along with the parts lists.

Keep up the good work.

Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Found one pic from Internet showing how stuff lap over each other under the seat :)

Need more, more, more :-(



By the way, I need OWNER/USER manual rather than shop manual.

 
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