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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody, this is my first post! I just purchased my first motorcycle today, a 1980 CM400E for a whopping 80 USD. Some older guy was doing some spring cleaning and needed the space so i suppose his loss is my gain :p . The bike has 10845 miles on it and has been sitting a a garage since 1999. There is some rust as you can see in the pictures but nothing too major. The worst of it is on the front wheel and the fenders need to be rubbed but structurally the bike seems quite solid. The bike gets a strong spark and will fire if i pour a bit of gas into the cylinders but wont run on its own (yes the petcock is turned to on :lol: i'm not that big of a noob) so i figure rebuilding the carbs will solve that problem ( any suggestions on where to get the best price on a rebuild kit in the US?) Also the clutch cable is missing the nub on the end that hooks to the lever on the handlebars so that will need to be replaced as well. Lastly there is a good size tear in the seat but thats about it. Otherwise the bike is in great condition, all electrical/lights work not even a dead bulb. I plan on bringing her back to her former glory ( shouldn't take too much) Let me know what you guys think and if some one could point me to an online manual and a good place to oder parts i would really appreciate it. Looks like i have to get over to the DMV tomorrow and get my permit!
 

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Welcome to the site. That is a great looking bike for $80, great deal. Hopefully you can get the fueling issue straightened away and enjoy the summer riding. Since the bike has been sitting since '99, you better check the tires to ensure they are safe.
 

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Welcome aboard. Yup, $80 can be beat and it looks like it's all there too.

It seems like we're getting a lot of CM400's around here lately so there should be lots of answers to your questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awesome, thanks for the quick replies, i already found a pdf of the honda shop manual which should come in handy. I've been poking around online and bikebandit has all the parts, anywhere else with better deals on rebuild kits? bikebandit want 40 some bucks just for the gaskets per carb which seems a bit pricey
 

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Congratulations on a great deal. Keep the pictures coming.

Here's a place I found for carb parts at a bit less of an unreasonable price.

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm

There have also been some 400 carb kits showing up on e-bay for around
$45 for the pair.

Open the carbs up first to check the needle valves as there are 2 different
kinds, gotta make sure you get a kit with the right ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, so i picked up a new battery last night and pulled the carbs off this morning. Some of the screws are pretty stuck on the carb, any suggestions for getting them off besides penetrating oil? Hopefully the rebuild kits will come in before thursday which is my next day off work.
 

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mjrascoe said:
Ok, so i picked up a new battery last night and pulled the carbs off this morning. Some of the screws are pretty stuck on the carb, any suggestions for getting them off besides penetrating oil? Hopefully the rebuild kits will come in before thursday which is my next day off work.
I had good luck with Sirius and thought the quality of the kit was good. I think the best tip I got when I started working on mechanical things was to buy a really good set of screw drivers in multiple sizes. The quickest way to strip the head of a screw is to use a sub-par screw driver. I would also consider junking the rusty screws and replacing them with some new galvanized or stainless steel screws. Most hardware stores with a decent selection will have adequate replacements. Just bring a sample of each to match as these carbs use a variety of lengths.
Once you have them stripped down to just the body, don't just spray with carb cleaner and reassemble. Get either carb dip (toxic but guaranteed to work) or use the boiling lemon juice method detailed in another thread. Looking at your carbs I would soak in dip at least an hour if not longer. I bet the pilot jet circuit is nasty and will need a good soak to flush. Finish the dip with blowing compressed air through all passages.
On reassemble, take your time and don't over tighten the screws. You'll go zero to "sh!t" faster than a CBX if you over tighten and strip out the aluminum body. I also have used a dab of harvey's silicone grease on the o-rings located on the fuel tubes between the carbs. Also used a dab on the accelerator pump shaft as it passes through the boot. Also be careful to reattach the little spring that mates the choke assemblies together otherwise you'll only choke one cylinder and run very hot.
You will need to sync these things once you have reassembled them, otherwise it will idle erratically and give you fits. You can bench sync these pretty easy by using the idle adjustment screw to open the left carb so that the butterfly opens enough to reveal the first pilot hole. Use the sync screw to open the other carb to the same point. There is a procedure for using a couple of same diameter of drill bits but I find this to work just as well. This however doesn't negate the need to properly sync using either vacuum gauges or other sync tool.
Lastly, be sure to install an inline filter between the tank and carbs. The screen in the tank only catches the big stuff and you can prevent a world of problems with a little $4 filter.
Good Luck and welcome to what I call therapy! In my world these bikes are about the only thing I can fix!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the detailed response on the carbs. I think im going to get a set of the five spoke rims for the bike, wire one are pretty rusted. But before i do i need to figure out if my sprocket will bolt on and if the front brake setup from a cm400c/t will work with the forks on mt cm400e. I attached a close up of the forks let me know what you guys think. I looks like the caliper should bolt right on where the bar that holds the drum in place bolts on to now.
 

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Sorry to say it's not a simple swap. The mounting points are completely different. You can find 400c/t forks on eBay for $40-70 plus shipping. Also might need a different triple tree as the upper is different to accomodate the air assist feature. I'd try using some 00 steel wool on those spokes to see if they clean up. Might be surprised how it turns out and will be cheaper.
 

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tricks to loosening tight screws or carb jets,
1. proper sized screwdrivers are a must
2. if it doesn't want to come loose on the first try, a shot of penatrating oil then slightly tighten screw then loosen will usually break them free
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
alright, so in anticipation for the arrival of the carb kits i figured i would take them apart and give them a good cleaning. Everything went well until i went to remove the air screw from the right carb. Proper size flat head, very little pressure, pop. the head snapped right off, leaving only a little nub for me to try to get a grip on. I didn't hit it with any penetrating oil because the other one came out no problem and i was only testing to see if it was going to come out easy. Now i'm ranting, sorry. Anyways i need to figure a way to get this air screw out! I sprayed it down with penetrating oil a couple of times so it *should* be loose but who knows. I was thinking that an easy out would do the trick but don't have one small enough, any ideas?
 

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I have the same problem with mine. I didn't break it but I need to find a way to get it out.
 

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First, look at the carb the screw did come out of......IF that hole is threaded a good distance down, you could CAREFULLY cut 1/8" of the aluminum column down to the screw and GENTLY vice grip the screwand the thin aluminum ring you just cut off and unscrew it (the "ring" might break, but that should be ok).....Next, while you clean the carbs, post a pic of both screws (good and bad, side by side, and i'll try to find a match from some junk carbs...... I may even have a whole spare carb body.....
:D Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
cutting down the aluminum column may work but i think im going to try an easy out first. I'm lucky the carb kits i ordered come with air screws! I think i'll head into town and grab an easy out and proper drill bit in the morning and i'll report back with my findings. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that my carb kits will come in tomorrow as well.
 
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