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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As mentioned previously, I own 2 of these little bikes and have one disk version and one drum. It's quite apparent to me that the drum set up is the better of the two. The braking is there on the cable operated disk but it reminds me of a VW Polo I used to own. It had no servo on the braking system and so you always felt you needed a diving boot on the end of your right leg. The drum was used on early UK cb200's for around a year and then changed to the disk which seemed to be used everywhere else in the world right from the start. The good news from a parts point of view is that the CL200 must have sold well in the USA and the CL had the same drum and plate as our UK cb200. It was easy to capture the parts on ebay and I had them sent over from Wisconsin.
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The wheel rim is a DID from David Silver and I have new bearings and an oil seal ready. I thought it best to get new brake shoes too. The ones that came with the brake plate have loads on them but they will be 40 odd years old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
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The wheel rim, plate and hub are up in a little workshop in the hills above Manchester for building and polishing. In the meantime I've been getting other bits ready and need to decide what to do with the mudguard. I have a few options.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The drum brake version runs the speedo and brake cable through a loop on the stay to the left of the hub. The disk brake version has a clip on the mudguard for the brake cable coming down the fork leg and the speedo cable goes to the right of the hub, again through a dedicated wire loop. The drum brake stay loop goes on the outside of the stay, i.e away from the spokes. The disk brake loop is to the inside.
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I'm not going to find another mudguard specific to the drum for a CB200. I have no idea how many are out there but you could wait forever. So something else has to be done. One thought that might work is to simply take the brake stay off my disk version and simply flip it over. The loop would then be on the left hand side and could possibly accomodate the speedo and brake cable. The other option is to continue down the CL way of thinking. I have parts ! 20181009_083510.jpg
One CL200 mudguard in better than expected condition which will bolt straight on. And one CL175 Mudguard, rechromed and almost identical but for the bracket. For some reason the CL200 fork legs have mounting holes which run parallel to the horizontal and the CL holes are at right angles to the vertical centre line of the fork leg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The good news is that the front mounting hole on both is in exactly the same position, if I wanted to drill an extra hole in the (nicer) CL175 example, the other mudguard will provide a perfect stencil and guide me where to stick the extra hole. 20180818_105720.jpg
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Hi 13, just a little extra info for you, lots of early general export cb200 came with a drum front, the brake/hub themselves is the same casting as the cb/cl175. The Cl200 was a one year only model, so if you need spares for either of your bikes searching for cb/cl175 parts will give you a wider net.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didn't know that. Many thanks for the information. I had a look at cb175 hubs and brake plates but couldn't be confident they were the same parts. As it happened the cl parts I obtained were reasonably priced. The postage from the US is quite steep though. Regards, Russ.
 

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Yes, I was going to add that the CB175 front brake was the same. As it happens, I have a spare one.

The mounting holes for the mudguard - the CL175 K7 has the same forks as the CB200, and has the staggered mounting holes. The earlier CB175, up to K6, have the parallel mounting holes. This is why the DS pattern CG125 mudguard bolts straight on to the earlier bikes, but needs a hole drilled in order to fit to the K7 175s.

I'd forgotten that the CB200 had its speedo drive on the other side, hence need for cable guides on both sides. The CL175 mudguard has a squashy rubber guide that mounts into a hole on the left side of the mudguard, could always fit a matching one on the right hand side.

I'm in envy of your rechromed CL mudguard - did you get that done, or bought like it ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Richard. The CL175 mudguard is another purchase from the USA already chromed. I took a guess that it would essentially be the same part as the CL200. A bit of a gamble but my hunch was right. If I do end up drilling 2 extra holes to fit, I don't think it will look too bad. It will all be pretty much hidden behind the fork legs.
 

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Here's my CL175K7 front end, same as CL200.

I searched high and low for replacement fork gaiters until it dawned on me that CB200 gaiters were the same part.

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But then again, the cheapo CG125 mudguard from David Silver would also work. Nasty pattern fork gaiters which soon split.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here's my CL175K7 front end, same as CL200
Nice. That’s how my front end will look then once I’m done. If it brakes as good as it looks I’ll be happy. It’s a step away from what you would describe as a bog standard bike but I’m less bothered about that stuff now I find. I don’t show them I ride them and although my red cb200 started as a pretty pristine restoration I’m comfortable with things getting worn with use. It’s what they were made for after all. The shorter mudguard would of course throw a bit more around in the rain, but I’m fair weather now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I collected my newly built wheel today. I just need to build the brake plate back up and fit now. I'm in no hurry however, I'm going to tidy the fork legs up while the wheels are off and maybe put some lacquer on the newly polished items.The owner of the workshop kindly allowed me to take some pictures around the place. it looks like something from the early 60's. :)
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Yes it does look like a '60s shop, very nice. interesting that all the Brit bikes (some with oil drip pans underneath :D ) are mostly color-correct but the poor old Brit-killer Honda is a flat blue...
 

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Here's a thought.

Will it go faster with a drum front brake ?

No drag from correctly adjusted brake shoes, whereas with a disk brake there is almost always a very slight drag from the brake pads, even when everything is good working order.

Also noted your tyre choice, echoes my own bikes. Dunlop K82 (TT100 alikes) on the CL, Chinese tyres on the CB, similar tread pattern to the original factory fitted tyres, which were good enough to easily ground the pegs, back when I was young and foolish. Rubber on the current Chengshins seems very soft and sticky, albeit at more conservative lean angles than in '72.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Interesting question. I’ll give the current front wheel a spin when it’s off the ground prior to being swapped. I’ll get an idea of any drag then. As you say with a drum it’s just going to be spinning on the bearings. I ordered the front tyre from Silvers when I bought the other parts required. It reminded me a little of the original front tyre I had on my old cd175, parallel grooves running round the circumference with non at all going across the section of the tyre. I remember it giving really good grip and barely wearing out in the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Assembled the brake plate today including fitting new shoes. Had to unpick some of my work after I took this photo. Note the missing spring. Doh. 20181019_123550.jpg
I haven't taken the existing wheel off yet but was interested to see what the drag on the wheel was. There is indeed some resistance. Not much and certainly acceptable but the bike will be pushing against it to a small degree.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I tried to make some progress today but instantly hit a problem. Richard was right to mention lever perches, they are in fact different.

The rubber lever boot on my red disk brake version was hiding the difference. The cable push fits into the perch on the disk version with no adjustment at the lever. The drum version has an adjustment bolt and locking nut where it meets the perch and the perch is threaded to accept this.

I can't see any option but to find a new perch designed for the drum. I'm in too far to turn back now, I'm sure we've all been there. It will mean finding the new perch which includes the switches and fitting it, handlebars off, threading out the old and in the new to the headlight bucket, throttle cable, brake light switch. Que sera sera.
 

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I've not seen the part in question, but wouldn't it be fairly simple to make up an insert that threaded into the existing perch at one end, and accepted the disk brake cable at the other ?

Photos of the two different bits for us to mull over ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Richard. I'm trying to get my mind round the problem but so far I haven't come up with anything good enough. I'll try and take some photos tomorrow which will illustrate what the issues are. Regards, Russ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
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I can't really see a way around this other than to shout up the proper part. The profile of the drum brake perch is circular and threaded to accept the adjusment bolt. The disk brake item has a smooth bore to accept the brake cable end only. The bore is too wide to accept a M8 tap.

With no way of getting the existing perch to accept the lever adjuster, I wonder if it could still function with me offering up the drum cable into the smooth bore and making the free play adjustment at the other end?
 
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