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^^^The incredible idiocy continues at eBay - I find sellers regularly who are describing parts inaccurately and message them internally to let them know that their listed part isn't for a Bomber, for example, as that hot-button name brings thoughts of huge profits... it can wear you down, that's for sure
 

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Discussion Starter #82
These turn signals arrived yesterday. Only 5.99UKP for four of them.

As I'm using CB175 switchgear on my pretend SL175, I though I ought to have some turn signals to go with the CB switch. AFAIK, the SL175 didn't come with turn signals as stock, so I thought these little plastic lamps would be fairly discrete.

The odd thing, which hadn't really occurred to me when I quickly read the Ebay advert, is that no turn signal relay is required, they flash all by themselves when 12v is applied. A shame, because I already have an LED compatible turn signal relay on the way. Still, it will come in, just jumper across it for these indicators to work. It does mean that the repeater lamp in the clocks won't flash, need to think about that, maybe I can find a 12v flashing LED.

indis.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Where would we be without the internet, I had no idea that 12v flashing LEDs were so readily available and cheap. A couple arrived the other day.

I'll just use one of them, with a couple of diodes on the +ve leg, to serve either side of the turn indicator circuits.

Drilled my home made headlamp ears to take the front signals, made up some little brackets to attach the rear signals. Also got a very cheap and dinky little 12v horn, actually very loud, louder than the genuine items on the other two 175s.

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Also got a CB200 battery box, which I stripped and repainted yesterday, waiting for the paint to harden before refitting the rubbers, which were still quite pliable.

20191105_082842.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Rubbers popped back into place, ready to refit to bike.

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Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
Started work on my SL175 air filters this morning.

I'm using CB175K4 side panels, which are slimmer than the K6/K7 parts. The later bikes have 'fatter' air boxes, which don't fit under the earlier side panels, K4/K5 filters being slimmer. This all meant that I had to keep my home made air filters quite compact, but obviously wanted to get as much volume into them as possible. Each foam panel is A5 size, a single A4 cut in half.

I made up a card board mockup to start with, to ensure it would fit, before starting to cut up steel. Angle grinder and hole saw at 9:00am on a Sunday morning, bet the neighbours love me. Lazy sods. :grin:

I used 1.5mm mild steel sheet, and 1.5mm perforated mild steel, M6 holes. I cut the silicon hose to the same length (100mm ish) as the original air hoses. The slash cut end extends beyond that 100mm. Original air hose has a slight bell mouth inside the filter, I thought that perhaps my slash cut might work in a similar way.

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Then it was a matter of tacking it together with the mig welder, before making up and attaching the rear mounting bracket, again from a cardboard template.

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I also rounded off some of the rough edges, angle grinder followed by power file. I now need to make up the front bracket and tack that on, then give the whole assembly a lick of paint, before gluing the Ramair foam into place. I'll use some black mastic, Tiger Bond or similar, also use this to seal around the hole where the silicon hose fits in.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Thanks for the kind comments.

I now have to finish this one, then make a mirror image for the other side.

An exact duplicate of the original SL175 filters was perhaps a step too far, particularly as I'm using a CB175 frame. It was easiest to use the back plate from an original CB paper filter as a template for my cardboard prototype, I guess that influenced my KISS design ……

SL filters look like this:

sl175filter.JPG sl175filter2.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Made and fitted the lower bracket to the air filter today, and it all fits fairly neatly. Apart from gaving a senior moment, trying to fit the right hand side panel onto the left hand side of the bike. Quite cold here today, brittle 48 year old plastic cracked and shattered. Kept all the bits, JB Weld ing it all together now, :-?

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I need to get some clips to snuggly secure the hoses to the carbs. It dawned on me that as I'm using CB200 manifolds I don't need the CB175 style insulators. This has given me a bit more clearance to get the air hoses to fit.

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
Also had another play with the exhaust system.

I've bought a cheap pair of Chinese universal slip on cans. They have a 50mm internal bore, which means that they will have little silencing effect as standard. However, 50mm gives me plenty of room to insert some sort of baffling system, might even use some of the internals from a rusted out pair of CB175 silencers.

I've been experimenting with how it looks with varying pipe lengths. I'm still not entirely happy, but think I'll go for the first option below, as in profile it looks closest to the real SL175. My turn signals will have to go somewhere else, and I'll need to make up some extended exhaust outlet pipes, like the SL175 has. Then paint it all black with PJ1 paint.

20191112_154323.jpg Capture.JPG

Alternative was this, but it just doesn't look right to me.

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I've welded the 38 to 50mm slip on adaptors onto the ends of the exhaust bends. Next job will be to fabricate and weld on some brackets, to mount the exhaust pipes onto the redundant rear footrest mounts. Also the little wire things that attach the springs which hold the slip on can on. Can also has a mounting strap, but I don't think I'll need this, as the pipes will take the load.
 

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Richard, your bike is looking good! I agree on the first version of the exhaust pipes. Would be close enough for me and I think the detail with the extended horizontal outlet pipes will look great and make a difference. Also great work on the air filters!
 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
Welded some brackets to the exhaust pipes and got them mounted. Brackets sit on top of where I welded the slip on adaptors onto the ends of the pipes. Hardest part was attaching the little loops that take the exhaust springs, ended up holding them in vice grip in one hand, mig nozzle in the other.

All the pipework needs painting black now, but that can wait until a warmer day !

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And in reference to another thread, photos taken using my Samsung Note smart phone …...
 

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And good pictures they are, Richard... not bad for a random heap of parts :D is it going the SL350K1 way with dual exhaust, one on each side? For some reason I got the impression earlier that you were going to merge the pipes into one can on the left like the OEM SL175 exhaust
 

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Discussion Starter #94
I'm taking the easiest route for now, dual exhausts like the SL350.

I would really like to go the 2-1 route. Maybe an option for later on.

I actually emailed these folks, thinking that I could use their 2-1 headers and bend the link pipe up a bit, to mimic the SL175 exhaust, but they've not had the courtesy to get back to me, so they can get stuffed.

Good job I didn't just click on the 'buy it now' button. :twisted:

Honda CB200 Exhaust, Honda CB200 Exhaust, Honda CB200, Honda CB200, Honda CB200 parts, Honda CB200 Exhaust
 

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Good job I didn't just click on the 'buy it now' button. :twisted:
Ouch - quite the price for it too, clearly they are very proud. I suppose the name "Predator" might be a clue...
 

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Discussion Starter #96
My December issue of Classic Motorcycle Mechanics arrived yesterday. Allen Millyard has a regular column now, and in it he described making up exhaust systems, by buying mandrel bends off Ebay and welding them together. He states that by filing the welds down and finishing with emery cloth, the joints are almost undetectable. But then, he's an ace welder, with a Tig outfit.

I was inspired me to have another look on Ebay. I've already bought a few bends and connectors from various exhaust shops, wondered about having another go with my mig, stitching some tubes together.. However, this afternoon I came across a place only a couple of miles away from me that makes up complete systems, custom bends pipes etc. Even more coincidentally, it's a shop that I've used on and off for car tyres for more than 40 years, never thought to look in their exhaust shop which is on the opposite side of the road. I think a visit there next year is definitely on the books.

https://www.304stainlessexhaustparts.com/about_us
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I bonded the RamAir foam onto the filter bodies the other day, after I had painted them with silver Hammerite and allowed this to cure for a couple of days. Accelerated the process with careful use of the heat gun, to warm both the aerosol can and the object being painted.

Got them both fitted to the bike this afternoon, side panels still fit, with enough clearance underneath for air flow. You can see the cracked right hand panel which I repaired using JB Weld Steel, needs to be rubbed down and repainted.

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Ignore the crappy Chinese 'brat' seat, more of that in a moment.

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That seat. Something has been bothering me about this build, comparing the real Sl175 saddle with my CB175K4 saddle, looking at the rear of the saddle where it lines up with the top of the rear suspension mount. Basically, the K4 seat is too long. It is 24" long, compared with 22" on the later K6/K7/CB200 seats. I think the real SL seat is shorter still, 20 - 21" in length.

Real SL seats are not realistically obtainable. Replicas from Vietnam are, at a price. So, I've bought a replica SL175 seat cover, and plan to have a go at building my own seat. After all, it's just some foam glued to a bit of bent steel sheet, how hard can it be ? :confused: :-? :grin:

Closeup of my exhaust mounts:

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
I'm hopeless at using Paint to edit photos, but this is what I'm thinking about, with reference to the seat.

20191118_085248.jpg cropped.jpg Capture.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Just a bit of fun in the shed today, making up a few parts that I'm short of.

I got a Chinese pit bike starter relay for 3 quid, looks pretty similar to the OEM Honda part. Made a stainless steel strap to attach this to the battery box. Made a bracket for the aftermarket LED flasher relay, so that this can also mount to the battery box, rather than to the frame as OEM part. Not that I'll need the flasher relay at the moment, as the LED indicators I've fitted flash all by themselves.

Made up the earth ( Ground ) strap, from a piece of car battery jump start leads, crimped and soldered eyelets on either end. Also made up the short battery to solenoid positive lead, again using jump lead cable, red PVC covered this time. And a new fused lead, using modern car type fuse holder.

Too cold ( and getting dark already ) to do anymore today.
 

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Richard, I realize the engine you put in the bike is electric start, and I also remember my SL175 had the starter motor location remaining on the crankcase despite being kickstart only, unlike the SL350K1 - but did the SL175 for the UK have electric start or no?
 
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