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Discussion Starter #41
Cleaned up and painted the rusty rear fender.

The bracket which Tom very kindly donated turned up a few days ago, and fits nicely, even with my rather oversized rear frame loop. Here's some of the parts put together for a trial fitting, before being put away somewhere safe where they won't get scratched.

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Street Triple cans have just arrived, must resist the temptation to get stuck in with the angle grinder and mig, need to think things through first.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Made a bracket to attach K4 clocks to K7 / CB200 top yoke.

2.5mm stainless steel, stainless bolts tack welded into place.

Main thing is, it fits perfectly.

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Discussion Starter #44
I-Ride-A-ホンダ;1090112 said:
Nice work
Thanks. It may not be perfect, but it's mine. I find little jobs like this incredibly satisfying, especially when they turn out more or less as planned !

I think I'm going to make the front engine mounting plates next. Original plan was to use 6mm aluminium plate, but after making this bracket I thought 2.5mm stainless steel might be nicer. However, small pieces of 2.5mm are currently out of stock, so I think I'll go back to the idea of using aluminium. It's what the café racer boys used back in the day, when they were shoehorning Bonneville engines into Featherbed frames, so should be OK for my little 175.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I tried, but I could not resist modifying the Street Triple cans.

As stock, they are mounted at the rear of the donor bike, on a 'Y' piece, ie 3 - 1 - 2 exhaust system, and have suitably convoluted pipes to suit.

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So I cut those off flush with the cans, and welded on some straight stubs, which will then attach to some 45 degree upswept bends.

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I'll have to get creative with brackets to mount them to the frame, SL350 style. However, I am having some second thoughts, as they are incredibly heavy, solid stainless steel, easy to see why Street Triple owners swap them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Another cheap find on Ebay, some alloy off road foot pegs, intended for one of the smaller Honda moto cross bikes.

With a little bit of filing, they fit the CL 175 foot bar nicely. Very crude castings with lots of flashing, but a bit more work with the file should tidy them up.

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
I decided that I couldn't live with this bodge left over from PO, so I got the angle grinder out and cut it off. I'd been clearing out my garage the other day, and found a 175 side stand bracket, and a CB600 side stand and spring, which actually fit the 175 bracket perfectly.

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The previous welding had badly weakened the box section at the rear of the foot bar mounts, so I cut all that off as well. I then fabricated a new box section out of 3mm mild steel, three strips. Welded the sides on first, nice big welds on the inner faces, then welded a lid on. Drilled a new hole for the side stand mounting bracket, and bolted it all up.

Which sounds simpler that it actually was. I spent the first hour or so just getting the Mig welder to play nicely, problems getting the wire to feed through to the business end, tip of the wire hanging up on the edge of the sleeve where it enters the gun. This was when switching from stainless wire (and gas) to mild steel wire. Spools of wire seem to have a mind of their own, unravelling all over the place.

Photos will follow, I got too involved in grinding, sawing and welding to take photos today. That, and getting annoyed with the welder. I dismantled the head unit three times, to get the wire to feed through.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Some pics of the repaired frame section.

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Side stand bracket in place.

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I've seen three 175 side stand brackets, and they all cracked at the tab that shares the foot bar mounting bolt. A couple of years back, these brackets were still available on Ebay, must have been a common fault back in the day, but I haven't seen them lately. So I've reinforced this one by welding more metal in on top of it.

As standard, that tab fits underneath the foot bar bracket, which means that the metal in the tab has to be quite thin. I've swapped this around, so the foot bar goes on first, and the tab on the side stand bracket can be as thick as you like.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Here's another 175 side stand bracket, showing the tab that cracks. Once this has broken off completely, the entire bracket can rotate backwards, pivoting on the bolt that holds it to the frame. Poor design, IMHO.

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Discussion Starter #50
Drilled and cut out front engine plates today. Started by drilling an M8 hole, then using this to bolt 6mm aluminium plate to an existing steel engine plate. Drilled the next 8mm hole, put another bolt through that, so that there could be absolutely no movement between the two plates, then drilled the remaining two M10 holes. This way, the holes are spot on. Finally cut the plates out from the sheet. Note to self - need some new files and a fresh hacksaw blade.

And yes, I have remembered to get some longer engine mounting bolts !

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I took advantage of some good weather yesterday to apply the 2K lacquer to the bodywork parts. A bit of orange peel, but that'll cut and polish out once the lacquer is fully hardened. I did two fuel tanks ( SL and CB 175 ) and two fenders with one can of lacquer, as it has to be all used in one go once activated.

I cheated on the SL tank. I wasn't happy with the result of my first effort, masking and spraying the white panel, so I got some matt white adhesive vinyl and cut the panels out of this. Hair drier removed any creases and stretch marks, then lacquered over the top, seems to have worked OK.

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My spare CB175 K6 tank. Black paint for main panel, 6mm white and 6mm black pinstriping tape for edges of panel. Had real problems getting tape to curve around corners, then tried the hair dryer, which worked miracles, creases just vanished with gentle heat.

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Discussion Starter #51
Rather than buy yet another set of metal working files, I got myself a power file.

Looks as though it's going to be a useful piece of kit. With an 80 grit belt, it produced a far smoother finish on the sawn edges of 6mm aluminium plate than I could achieve, filing by hand. It also polished the heads of stainless steel bolts much quicker and easier than I'd previously done, using my little bench grinder.

It also gets into places that the angle grinder can't reach.

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Discussion Starter #52
Painted the frame this afternoon, after getting most of the loose rust off. Certainly not a bare metal respray.:-?

Having a spell of good weather at the moment. I used Hammerite Smooth Silver paint. Brushed on in the box sections and lower parts that are subject to wear, sprayed the rest of it. May give it a third coat when present layers have had a chance to cure a bit.

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Discussion Starter #53
Started some reassembly yesterday. Since these pictures were taken, I've got the steering head bearings fitted, also the rear brake pedal and side stand.

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I'm quite pleased with the way the fuel tank has turned out. cheated with the paint scheme, went for a different year, also used cut vinyl as I wasn't happy with results from masking and painting stripes. The lacquer still needs some cutting and polishing ( 1200 grit wet and dry, with plenty of soapy water, followed by Farecla G3 compound ), but it's a bit better than when I got it. :grin:

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Discussion Starter #54
Repaired a rear brake pedal this afternoon.

My CB174 K4 came with a bent brake pedal, also bent handlebars and crudely repaired lock stop, it had obviously been down the road at some time.

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Now, the Haynes Book of Lies glibly talks of straightening things by heating and bending, but as I don't possess a forge and anvil I can't do this. However, I hit upon this method. I cut a segment out of the pedal at the bend, using a cutting disk in the angle grinder, then bent the pedal back into shape.

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I then cut a piece of 3mm mild steel to bridge the gap, and welded this into place, followed by a smaller piece of steel to get the profile back, finally built up with weld and ground back into shape. I don't think that this will compromise the strength of the part, as the bend and cut section are at 90 degrees to the normal pedal action.

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Final step, not shown here, was to give it all a coat of Metal Protekt silver paint, and hung it up to dry. I then discovered that the silver paint had dripped onto my head, requiring me to apply cellulose thinners to my hair in order to remove it. My wife does not like my new fragrance ….
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
A bit more progress.

I wasn't happy with the position of the fuel tank, so I cut off the new front mounts on the frame and made some new ones, about an inch further forward, but still further back than the originals, which I'd sawn off previously. So, another 10mm hole drilled through the spine of the frame, and a 10mm mild steel rod tapped into place. I'll give it a dab of weld next time the bike is near a 13amp socket.

It's amazing how much time you can spend just cutting bolts to the correct length and polishing the ends, but it only nags me to see unused thread protruding from a fixing.

So, this is where it stands at the moment. Just about ready to drop the engine in next, then there's loads to do like making a battery box, air filters, wiring loom etc etc. I'd rather make some of these parts than spend more money on rusty original parts from the breakers. Still can't make up my mind whether or not to make do with my CB200 sprocket cover on my 175 engine. Screw holes all line up, but case is a different shape.

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Tank is now rubber mounted, with no frame contact. Rubber bungs on the front 10mm bars. At the rear, I drilled a 9mm hole in the frame and fitted an M6 rivnut. M6 bolt goes into this, through the rear of the tank, with a rubber buffer ( difficult to see in this photo ) threaded onto the bolt, between the tank and the frame.

The seat latch is salvaged from my CB175 K4 to K6 build. I'd cut the tank mount off to use on the K6 frame, not thinking that I'd need the latch part again. Luckily I'd kept it, and was able to weld another bit of metal onto it to make a new mount.

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Discussion Starter #56
Had two Weetabix and a can of spinach this morning, lifted the engine straight in without problem, easier than I remembered from last time I did this. Even got the starter cable run correct first time.

Couple of minor snags. My repaired rear brake pedal needs some adjustment, I've bent it too far in the opposite direction.

Top engine mount, the one that engine hangs from under the tank. I only had a set of CB200 plates, and as I suspected, they don't fit, as the CB200 engine is around 10mm taller than the CB175. So I'll be making a pair of new ones, once I've been down to Screwfix to pick up some more metal cutting disks. I've got a chunk of 3mm mild steel that'll do nicely for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Engine fitted.

Not impressed with durability of Hammerite Smooth Silver, it scratches very easily. Plenty of touching up required. Cue Donald or Boris. :eek:

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Hi Richard,
the bike looks great, really good job so far, and i expect the rest the same for sure.
I found that hammerite needs several weeks to harden totally, then it is quite durable.
Keep up the good work!
 
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