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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Back in January of this year I purchased a very ugly, in need of rebuilding bike. Unfortunaltley without title ( that's another story/ Thread ). Now I've NEVER rebuilt a bike at anytime in my life ( owned a bunch over my life ) and even my wife tilted her head when she heard what I was going to embark on. So this is my build so far :

The Bike when I got it home ( the holes in the tank are from when the last guy who owned it got bored and took his .44 mag to it - tank is totally rusted in and out. It was off the frame when he used it for target practice ) ;






Got her torn down to the frame :



after I got the tear down complete I cleaned and primered ;



My Paint booth ( slash garage/strage area ) I'm using the Duplicolor etching primer then high gloss black on the main frame and other tid bits:


As my original top tree snapped on the right side fork ( gee that never happens ) I found a 72' CB350F top ( yep it fits perfectly) on fleabay that the guy had stripped the paint off and I used my upper clamps on top, I will not be using the top light bar that came with it, to stock looking.


Back in June I picked up a set of used rims ( with tires ) for 40 bucks, hell of a deal. the front tire is new but it was going on his chopper build ( tossing that out ) the rear tire after I went over it has no cracks and is a 4.5" width - Perfect !! This is a comparison shot of what my rim looks like and what I did to the new rim with 180 grit on the spokes and a wire wheel on my hand drill. I also learned alot about how the sprocket set up is to be installed. that was a real fun day for me (seriously)





I'm Now at the point of replacing the steering bearings (bearings from allballsracing ), what a job this is turning out to be. The bottom race on the top of the stem came out no problem, the bottomside not so much I'm still banging away on it, I'll get it out one way or another ( yes, I've tried heating the main tube for expansion ).


So that is where I am so far on this project, you guys are getting the story in one lump some as I've posted this on two other forums that have taken me alot longer to see the results thus far.
 

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Wow! Most people use decals when they want bullet holes--you got the real thing! Good luck on your build! Lots of helpful advice available here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As I have nothing but time for this project of mine, I take it slow, enjoy the time on working on it. If I get frustrated I just back up a little and remind myself I have no time limit on this. This project is my Zen, I don't think about anything beyond what I'm working on at that moment.

I'll keep you posted as I get some momentum going again.
 

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pacaguy said:
As I have nothing but time for this project of mine, I take it slow, enjoy the time on working on it. If I get frustrated I just back up a little and remind myself I have no time limit on this. This project is my Zen, I don't think about anything beyond what I'm working on at that moment.
Good way of approaching it, exactly how I'm proceeding on my 350. No sense rushing and then end up redoing stuff later. Also, at least for me, the building process is more fun than the riding so just take it easy and enjoy the process. I rushed my 400 build and ended up redoing a couple of things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay today in the mid day heat ( 90's plus humidity ) I finally got the top and bottom races out. Thank you know who for PB blaster and a torch. Now I'm replacing the old bearings ( rabbit poop ) with a sealed bearing kit from AllBalls racing.

So I've cleaned up the steering wells of all the garbage, then I took a real good look at the depth of the wells. The top well depth will have the race flush with the top. Now the bottom well is twice as deep. How do I get the race pushed down to the old depth without hurting the race.

One thing I am doing is freezing the race's prior to installing to basically shrink the metal, should I also heat the steering stem to help the neck expand ? But the big question is what tool is used to safely install without damaging the race.

Basically I'm on a holding pattern until I can get some input, Help ( quitely whispered ).
 

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The old races can be used to hammer in the new ones. Or you can use a socket of the correct outside diameter to tap them in. I didn't even freeze mine on my 450.. They went right in by using the old races to tap against..

If you have a brass punch, that may help as well.. Everyone should own one of those!



GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bird76,

on the bottom side of the neck, does the new race install all the way to the old stop point?
 

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Yes, it has to. The spacing (stack height) may end up different though. That's why AllBalls supplies you with those washers, to shim the difference. You may not be able to use your stock headlight ears after swapping to the tapered roller bearings..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bird76,

Thanks BIG TIME for the info. I read the insert in the package regarding the shims but I did not comprehend it to well.

well tommorrow being a dry and cooler day plus a new tube of moly grease ( and plastic gloves ) I'll make my next move to the install. I really do hope that the ears can be used or if I have to shave them that would be fine, we shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
great another stuck point, this is what happens with a Newbie.

I wanted to do a dry run on the parts prior to just installing the bearings.
For some reason the bottom bearing does not slide all the way to the bottom base.

See Pic :


What is the next step that I am missing ?? I know I have the shimes/spacers but that is still "way" to much of a gap. Do I need to tap the bearing down to the base ?
 

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Yep, you have to drive it down. A large washer against the bearing and a piece of pipe slid over the steerer works well. But I wouldn't do it until you know for sure what spacers, etc. you're using because it'll be difficult to remove the bearing once it's on.

Here's a link to how I modified the lock nut in order to retain the fork ears. I did this on a CB350G which has different ears than a K4, so you may not need any modification. If you do end up with a gap between the ears and top bridge, however, this may work.

viewtopic.php?p=36257#p36257

Hope this is helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This sounds promising. Strangely enough I saved the old bearing set-up and to those of you thinking of replacing to the sealed bearing, THIS IS A MUST. as you need to measure the overall stack of the old bearings and compare to the new stack height.

Now thrilhou as your G series does have a different lock nut compared to mine ( see pic )


here is my Question in the pic :


and here is the spec from allballsracing,



- I'm thinking that the "AFTER" measurement would happen after I remove the tabs. Would that be a correct statement ? Also what tool would be best to grind down the tabs,
as I cannot just put this on a grind stone. One more question about the spacer, does it go at the bottom of the tree or do you install the dust cover first, then the spacer ?
 

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pacaguy said:
Now thrilhou as your G series does have a different lock nut compared to mine
No, they are the same part. The reason the dust cover is no longer "built in" is because I remover the "tabs" holding the cover and lock nut together. They are unnecessary. The picture I have is of the underside of the lock nut, post removal of the tabs. Instead of modifying the width and height of the ring, I ground it off and used a couple strokes of a file to ensure the nut was flat. This of course causes the dust cover to separate from the nut but this isn't really a problem as there is still a slight lip on the nut for the dust cover to center on.
Grinding down the tabs to help the top bridge seat properly onto the fork ears is exactly what I'm suggesting.
pacaguy said:
I'm thinking that the "AFTER" measurement would happen after I remove the tabs. Would that be a correct statement ?
Yep. But as I said, I just took them off completely instead of trying to turn them down.
pacaguy said:
Also what tool would be best to grind down the tabs,
as I cannot just put this on a grind stone.
I used a Dremel tool.
pacaguy said:
One more question about the spacer, does it go at the bottom of the tree or do you install the dust cover first, then the spacer ?
Order should be spacer, dust cover, bearing. The dust cover seals against the bearing, the spacer allows both to sit higher on the steerer.
Hopes this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bryan,

Thank you so much for this " lesson". As I have to leave tonight for work, I'll be working on this little project when I get back. I'll update once I get this accomplished.



Greg
 

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I hope some of the info proves useful. BTW, if you do a search for things like "tapered bearings" or "All Balls" in the forum's search function, you'll find lots of other helpful information/walk-thrus/etc. from other folks that've done the same procedure. I read through about every post/problem/solution I could find before I went to work on it... It helped with visualizing the process.
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Okay got the All Balls races placed in properley. I have a concern on the top race as it does not sit flush to the steering column yet it is set to the correct depth of the stop in the top steering column. I've set in placement - thin spacer,dust seal, greased the bottom bearing onto the steering shaft ( Beavis "hehe - he said shaft" ) installed the new bottom bearing ( I put the steering component into the freezer for about a half hour - it did help ) then tapped the new bearing down to seal against the dust seal, I used the other spacer in the kit to cover the new bearing while tapping down to help prevent jarring the bearing.

Then once that was complete I greased up the top bearing, passed the bottom steering stem through, dropped the new top bearing in, then new seal, then the cover that was ground down per the spec ( ish ). Now with that completed I noticed that the headlight ears are about a 1/4" short, even with the chrome spacer that sits on the bottom of the ear, is this common ? I'm wondering if this is due to the upper race being slightly above the steering head ( Beavis " hehe he said head " ) . would this be the case ? Yes my brain tells me to write childish crap. Run with it, it's how I'm wired.

Tell me your thoughts on the headlight ears, I'm looking for your input - Big time. Thanks !

Thrilhou, I did look at your post where you ground down the nut but I did not grind in down to the point of separation, would that be the problem in itself? do I only need the nut and not the cover ? would not having the cover make the cover nut screw down further, making it so I would have the headlight ears flush?
 

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You should have measured and compared "stack" heights of the old vs the new bearings..... If you have a 1/4" gap, you probably didn't need the spacer...The simplest solution is to add a 3mm thick o-ring above and below the ears... (that's 6mm of the 6.3mm that is a 1/4 ")
 

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The problem I had was that the crimped ring holding the nut and dust cover together cause the assembly to sit high, which in turn causes the top triple clamp to sit high, creating a gap.
If I remember correctly, in order to use the dust seal that comes with the kit, I had to remove the ring... otherwise the nut would not come in direct contact with the bearing.
If you look at the old top race, you'll notice that it sits perfectly with in the circumference of the ring. Not so with the new bearing.
My understanding is that the instructions indicate to widen and shorten the ring so that the new bearing can fit properly. It still would cause interference with the kit's dust cap, though (again, the reason I decided to grind it off entirely).

But 1/4" is a lot of space. I can't say if that's what's causing the problem... I guess it's possible that there are other contributing factors, so you should triple check everything.
Grinding the ring that holds the dust cap and nut together certainly won't harm anything (as long as you're careful and you don't damage them in the process) and the nut has a lip that allows the two to center together, so... maybe that will help?
Or just add O-rings as Steve says...
Good luck.
 
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