My 1972 CB350K4 restoration project is underway!!!!

31152 Views 153 Replies 29 Participants Last post by Brown Bomber, Oct 15, 2009

NE350

Discussion Starter · Nov 10, 2008

2

Here is what i'm starting with, I purchased it 3 years ago and it didn't take much to get it rideable, but I recently got a 1975 CB550K and can now take the 72 off the road for it's overhaul and still be able to ride.
To start the 350's:
- commpression is 90R/120L
- some of the engine gaskets are leaking
- most of the random metal parts are rusty, poor paint, and or no paint
- side covers and tank paint very faded

More photos to come as my work progress. Does anyone have any tricks or tips on painting the engine ie. Should I take it apart and do piece by piece or can I just keep it one piece???
Matt

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66Sprint

· #2 · Nov 10, 2008

With that compression difference in the two cylinders, you should be taking it apart for a rebuild......At least top end anyway....... Steve

NE350

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 13, 2008

6

Here are some before/after pics of my progress
Tool Box

Foot Pegs

Rear Directional

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tbpmusic

· #4 · Nov 13, 2008

Forget the compression difference between the two cylinders - that's irrelevant in light of the fact that the 350 manual clearly states 150 pounds as the minimum.

74cb360

· #5 · Nov 13, 2008

Hi, NE350

Great job.
How you did it? You chrome the foot pegs and Rear Directional? Or just sand and paint them?
Thanks.

66Sprint

· #6 · Nov 13, 2008

Bill,.... I knew YOU would know the specs...LOL.... The only one I can easily remember is 164 minimum for the 450's..... (Did you get the side-cover bolted on yet?...Can't wait to see your bike!)... Steve

tbpmusic

· #7 · Nov 13, 2008

66Sprint said:
Bill,.... I knew YOU would know the specs...LOL.... The only one I can easily remember is 160 minimum for the 450's..... (Did you get the side-cover bolted on yet?...Can't wait to see your bike!)... Steve

Well, not to be nit-picky, but Honda says the cutoff for a 450 is actually 164 pounds.......

No, haven't touched mine for a couple of weeks. too much travelling for work.
I have a few days home now, but the darned washing machine just broke, and I have to fix that, or wifey will never shut up and leave me alone.
I hate washing machines - I swear, all the parts are made by Gillette, and with big hands, they cut you to ribbons.
Then, on the road again next week...........

NE350

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 15, 2008

74CB360,

I came up with a 6 step process for turning rusted/tarnished metal into a Chrome like shine. Here is my secret:

1. Scotch brite wheel i.e Paint/rust/grime/tarnish remover
2. Black Rouge on Sisal wheel
3. Brown Rouge on Spiral Sewn wheel
4. White Rouge on Spiral Sewn wheel
5. Liquid white rouge
6. Maas Metal Protector

I use a drill attachment, no fancy set up here.

For the parts that need paint, I just hit 'em with the Scotch Brite wheel, wash with surface with soap and water, prime, the paint. Without ignoring the other two guys concerned with the commpression, Piston rings and new gasketts are sitting on my shelf waiting. Not sure if I'm gonna need to bore them, we'll see when I open her up!

Matt

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NE350

Discussion Starter · #9 · Nov 15, 2008

2

Here's the rear brake cover.

[attachment=1:13dqu1jo]100_0132.jpg[/attachment:13dqu1jo]
[attachment=0:13dqu1jo]100_0134.jpg[/attachment:13dqu1jo]

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bill440cars

· #10 · Nov 15, 2008

Great job on that brake plate, can't wait to see how the rest of the bike turns out, if this is an example of your work.

NE350

Discussion Starter · #11 · Nov 15, 2008

2

Here is the rear axle before and after. I guess you could say this project is a deep cleaning one.

Matt

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NE350

Discussion Starter · #12 · Nov 15, 2008

2

....and the rear wheel

It amazing what is revealed after grinding 35+ years of grim off!!!!

Matt

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NE350

Discussion Starter · #13 · Nov 15, 2008

As I undertake this project I found that it would be so much easier to go to the local hardware store and replace all of the nuts and bolts. But pride takes over and I find myself being very pleased after hours of polishing each original nut/washer/spacer ect.. When it's finished I will only be replacing a few things such as Mufflers, Mirrors and possibly the rear shocks. It will also have a nice fresh coat of paint on the tank and side covers of course original light ruby red.
I have a nice image of the engine restoration in my head as well, polished side covers and tap caps next to a black painted engine with the fins polished. I'll keep you posted.

Matt

NE350

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 15, 2008

Does anyone have any tips on taking the tank badges off without destroying them? I'd hate to shell out $80 fo rnew ones.

Matt

NE350

Discussion Starter · #15 · Nov 15, 2008

6

Seems to be a problem with some of the photos I posted earlier so here they are again...

TOOL BOX

REAR DIRECTIONAL

REAR FOOT PEGS

Matt

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gene03079

· #16 · Nov 15, 2008

Nice work on the clean up. I can see a lot of time is going into this one. keep up the good work.

Bird76Mojo

· #17 · Nov 16, 2008

Lookin good man!!

GB :mrgreen:

NE350

Discussion Starter · #18 · Nov 20, 2008

4

Here are some pics of my progress....

Pegs/kick stand before

After

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krukster86

· #19 · Nov 21, 2008

WOW! I am cleaning up my footpegs right now. Are you going to clean up the rubber on those pegs? Toothbrush and 409 worked wonders for me.

So when you clean up all those nuts and bolts, what do you use to keep em from getting rusty? I also don't wanna replace all the nuts and bolts on my bike!

tbpmusic

· #20 · Nov 21, 2008

krukster86 said:
So when you clean up all those nuts and bolts, what do you use to keep em from getting rusty? I also don't wanna replace all the nuts and bolts on my bike!

You can't stop them from rusting again, for the most part.
When I do a bike, I just make a list and replace every nut/bolt/screw on the bike with stainless, from Bolt Depot.
Costs about $100 for the whole bike, including engine mounts and everything, but I think it's well worth it - they look GREAT and will never rust again.

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