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Discussion Starter #1
somebody will answer this, i'm sure. here's my 2 problems...

my new head headlight has white, green and blue wires. i get it, white is low beam power, blue-high beam and green is ground. correct? i have a NEW control switch as well. it's an inexpensive 3-way switch from radio shack- it's mounted on the headlight bucket- looks sharp. the middle position is clearly stamped "OFF." for the forward position i have the blue wire soldered, backward i have the white. do i need anything attached to the middle position, in other words, OFF? the green ground wire from the light is connected back in to the harness through a corresponding green wire bullet connection. does this sound right? what's actually powering the headlight, am i missing something here? thats's question 1.

more info- i have no more kill switch. all of my bar switches are gone except for the headlight switch relocation.

my rear/brake light should power on with the ignition set to "run," correct? it doesn't. thats's question 2. my rear light isn't effected by any other bar switches, correct? the "stop" brake light works when i activate both front and or rear brakes so i know i have that part wired correctly. there is a brown/white wire (i think coming from the ignition switch) terminating from the harness up by the headlight with a female bullet connection waiting to be connected to something. additionally there is a brown wire coming from my tail light with a similar female terminating connection waiting to be connected to something? any suggestions? i can supply more info if needed.

this is obviously a custom wiring bare-bones application i'm going for here. purists can please keep their comments to constructive criticisms only.
[attachment=0:gix6o92r]27703_10150177674005567_862220566_12485271_8271559_n.jpg[/attachment:gix6o92r]
 

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uhohferris said:
somebody will answer this, i'm sure. here's my 2 problems...

my new head headlight has white, green and blue wires. i get it, white is low beam power, blue-high beam and green is ground. correct? YES

i have a NEW control switch as well. it's an inexpensive 3-way switch from radio shack- it's mounted on the headlight bucket- looks sharp. the middle position is clearly stamped "OFF." for the forward position i have the blue wire soldered, backward i have the white. do i need anything attached to the middle position, in other words, OFF? NO

the green ground wire from the light is connected back in to the harness through a corresponding green wire bullet connection. does this sound right? YES

what's actually powering the headlight, am i missing something here? thats's question 1.
a black wire from the old handle bar switch powers either blue or white to headlight plus the brown/white which powers the tach/speedo/taillight

more info- i have no more kill switch. all of my bar switches are gone except for the headlight switch relocation.

my rear/brake light should power on with the ignition set to "run," correct? it doesn't. thats's question 2. my rear light isn't effected by any other bar switches, correct? WRONG

the "stop" brake light works when i activate both front and or rear brakes so i know i have that part wired correctly. there is a brown/white wire (i think coming from the ignition switch) terminating from the harness up by the headlight with a female bullet connection waiting to be connected to something. TACH/SPEEDO/TAIL LIGHT

additionally there is a brown wire coming from my tail light with a similar female terminating connection waiting to be connected to something? ALL HONDA 450'S HAVE THAT IT'S FOR EURO MARKET THAT HAD A PARKING LAMP IN FRONT, IGNORE IT
any suggestions? i can supply more info if needed.

this is obviously a custom wiring bare-bones application i'm going for here. purists can please keep their comments to constructive criticisms only.

WHERE IS THE FUN IT THAT?
This may help
 

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your descrition of the stock headlight color coding is correct. on your switch you are missing a power source from the battery or ignition switch (since this is custom you decide what switch powers what). in order to tell you what to hook up to which pole you need to provide a switch diagram or do a continuity test on the switch.

for starters, your green wire from the headlight needs to go to a good ground which can be directly to the frame or back into the wiring harness (that bullet connector you mention for instance)
for the 3 positions on your switch we need my question above answered but lets assume that you can figure out which position is which.
the three wires your switch needs is:
1: a power source from the battery or ignition switch
2; one wire to the headlight white for low beam
3: one wire to the headlight blue for high beam
4: how do you want to control your tail light?...always on; then wire to the ignition switch, on with high beam and low beam only; buy a 3 way diode input 1 wired in parallel from high beam, input 2 wired in parallel with low beam, output to tail light.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thank you guys. i'm getting close to the answer i'm looking for here i can tell. hope again i don't sound to naive here, i've done a lot on this bike but wiring is still throwing some curveballs at me.

i'm at work, otherwise i'd take an actual photo. if this is too ridiculous i'll repost tonight when i'm home.

1. so those two middle sections (both in the empty portion of my amazing diagram) of the switch are obviously the "off" position. nothing gets wired to them.

2. the empty connection directly next to the blue wire soldered connection needs power?

3. the empty connection directly next to the white wire soldered connection needs power?

4. can those above requirements be achieved by splicing a wire- where one wire splits into two, and connect back into some power in my harness? any idea which color one? black?

i'll respond to the proposed tail light answers tonight.

thanks again
 

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Can't answer you without a switch diagram or continuity test. in order to answer your question we need to know which poles are connected when the switch is in each of the 3 positions of your switch (just like the diagram for the headlight dimmer switch in the wiring diagram above)

1. so those two middle sections (both in the empty portion of my amazing diagram) of the switch are obviously the "off" position. nothing gets wired to them.

----nothing is obvious whithout knowing the switching inside the circuit for each position

2. the empty connection directly next to the blue wire soldered connection needs power?

----can't answer without knowing the internal switching

3. the empty connection directly next to the white wire soldered connection needs power?

----can't answer without knowing the internal switching

4. can those above requirements be achieved by splicing a wire- where one wire splits into two, and connect back into some power in my harness? any idea which color one? black?[/color]

---if I understand your, question, this would defeat the purpose of having a switch in the first place, since you would have effectively wired your switch in parallel rather than in sequence. in order to give you any real answers we need to know what's happening inside your switch. do you know how to do a continuity test?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i DO NOT know how to do a continuity test. i have an ohm meter? on the bottom of the switch the connections are labeled 1 2 3 along one side and 4 5 6 along the other. again, i've got my low beam wire connected to 1 and my hi-beam connected to 3. the rest are empty connections.
 

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Phone me...I have the answer for your switch...540-427-4256....Steve
 

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a continuity test tests for continuity between each of the terminals; ie tells you which terminal is connected to which other terminal(s) for each of the 3 switch positions; for example in position 1 is terminal 1 connected to terminal 4? is it connected to any other terminals at the same time?
on your ohm meter set it to the lowest ohm setting and start with one test lead on terminal one with the switch in position 1 and then try the other test lead on each of the other 5 terminals one at a time and note down which terminals are connected to terminal 1 in position one, then repeat this test with the switch in position 2 and then in position 3.

then repeat for each of the other 5 terminals in each switch position
 

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Discussion Starter #9
just went out and plugged everything in and... behold! i have light!!! both head and tail. exactly as you said steve, 1 and 3 to tail light, 4 to hi beam, 6 to low beam and 2 & 5 to power. thanks steve, and everyone else.

1 4

2 5

3 6
 

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