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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm new to the forums, new to motorcycling, and a proud owner of a new (to me) 1976 CB360 :)

I've had the bug for awhile- my soon-to-be-ex-wife and I talked constantly about taking the riding courses and buying bikes- but like our marriage, things just didn't turn out the way we planned. So part of my new appreciation for life is to do all those things I talked about and didn't do.

Through the girl I'm dating, I met her girlfriend's husband who is a hardcore biker and the bug just completely overtook me. His Sportster is ratted out, ugly... just completely perfect. I realized I could buy something really cheaply and customize it for years and make it my own.

Anyway, I probably paid a little too much for my CB360- it's not in the best shape cosmetically, but it starts and RUNS reliably which, from what I've gathered in these forums, is a rarity. $650 got me a bike that will teach me to ride, wrench, and appreciate the art of scrounging and jury-rigging parts for a bike almost as old as me.

I spent the last couple days reading and decided this is a great place to share and learn- thanks for the forums, and I hope to have a project page up soon.the
 

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Sensei
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Lots of 360 projects on group..... Read the project logs, it may make your job MUCH easier... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys. Yeah, for now I'm tackling the easy stuff- the oil change, chain lube, replacing tires, fixing my headlights- and I'll do a lot of reading before I tackle cleaning the carbs and other stuff. Luckily there are a lot of generous 360 owners taking lots of pictures. Seems like I found the right place to learn.
 

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Sensei
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Bone.... Now to see if the Honda upgrades were done.... Check the boss on the engine that contains the serial number.....If it appears that there are TWO "extra" dents (centerpunch marks) struck into the area (usually one over CB 360 and one over that "dash" between the numbers), then all the factory warranty upgrades were done......Don't panic if they are not there, its just nice to know.....
Keep a journal of dates and services (oil change etc).....It makes it easier to figure out what and why if something does change or go amiss......and to track your expenditures on the bike.....
:D Steve
 

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Welcome! Yes this forum is full of other CB360 projects and be sure to learn from our mishaps...er...experience :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nice, all the people whose 360s I admire are showing up :)

I don't have the money (nor tools) to go the restoration route- so mine is going to be a journey of customization... uglifying the bike, if you will... I'll get some pics up soon of the bike in its current state. Looks like most of the 360s at the start- ripped seat, a little rust, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So the bike's been at my friend's house all week. I was working on it there, and besides the oil change and a slight idle adjustment, all I did was buy a new seal for the gas cap since it didn't have one when I bought it, and my first fill-up spilled gas everywhere when I drove off.

The next day, the bike would start and then refuse to idle- it would just start, sputter, and then crap out completely. Shortly after that it wouldn't even turn over. Please remember, this is my first bike, and first experience troubleshooting an engine. I take my car to Firestone...

I did a lot of reading, decided I'd need to start with the cam chain adjuster, valve adjustment, points, and carb cleaning... bought the tools I needed, ordered a new set of gaskets and Allen engine bolts to replace while I'm in there... and felt overwhelmed. Also pissed that the bike I just had running all of a sudden stopped running.

I perused the forums here some more, and found a similar problem to mine. Someone mentioned the vent to their gas cap was clogged... sure enough, I went over to my friend's for lunch today and popped the gas cap. It was vacuum tight. The gas vent hole was clogged with goo. I poked it out, and one kicked turned the beast over. It's humming again :)

Now, I still intend to do all the tune-up work, but I can do it on my own time, after proudly driving the bike home tonight. And I don't have to burden my friend with a bike sitting in his driveway for another week. I'll also take the opportunity to pull the ancient tires off and stick the new ones on that I ordered last week.

Question: I don't have a center stand on this bike. What's the best, safest way to remove both wheels? I have some cinder blocks I could try and get the bike up on, if that will work. Otherwise, should I remove one wheel, take it to Cycle Gear and have them install the new tire, then come back and do the other one?

Also, besides paying attention to my Clymer's book, is there anything to watch out for when taking the wheels off my first time?

Thanks. Pictures soon.
 

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No center stand - bummer.
You can use your cement block, or wood blocks or something under the engine, do the wheels one at a time.
Or if you have a real high ceiling, you can "hang" it from the rafters with one or both wheels off the ground - I ressort to this on bikes without stands, as I have 12' ceilings. I just use the motorcycle tie-downs I keep in my truck.
Or you can buy an official bike stand - a 2-prong prop with a long handle to leverage the bike up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So, no stamps at all on my engine VIN :(

Today I had a few minutes and replaced a burned out turn signal, and the lights work with some weirdness. Turn signals do not flash, only stay lit when activated. Front turn signals are in running light mode, rears are off until turn signal is activated. Headlight works, but activating the high-beam toggles the running lights off. The taillight functions as running light + brake. Turning the ignition key two notches clockwise leaves the taillight on.

This weekend, I'll be trying to adjust the cam chain tensioner, the valves, and the ignition timing. I'm really hoping I'm not over my head, but we'll find out.
 

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Bone said:
So, no stamps at all on my engine VIN :(

Today I had a few minutes and replaced a burned out turn signal, and the lights work with some weirdness. Turn signals do not flash, only stay lit when activated. Front turn signals are in running light mode, rears are off until turn signal is activated. Headlight works, but activating the high-beam toggles the running lights off. The taillight functions as running light + brake. Turning the ignition key two notches clockwise leaves the taillight on.

This weekend, I'll be trying to adjust the cam chain tensioner, the valves, and the ignition timing. I'm really hoping I'm not over my head, but we'll find out.
Sounds like you just need a new flasher, OR you have a VERY low battery voltage.
Unless im mistaken every thing you said is normal (except for the "not flashing" ,which is IMHO more than likely just a bad flasher) and correct for operation except the "High Beam" thing which Im not real sure about. Someone a little more familiar with this model/yr bike might be able to answer that one.
Honestly I think ya just need a new flasher IMHO. ;)

That "turn the key thing" is so that if you break down, etc , you can pull the key and go for help, and leave the rear parking lights on at night so folks can see the bike sitting there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I bought a generic 12v thermal flasher and installed it, blinkers worked. Went on a 40 minute trip and blew the main fuse :( guess it's time to inspect every wire.

The maintenance weekend didn't go as well as I planned either. I followed the steps to adjust the cam chain tensioner but am not sure if it did anything. Moved on to valve adjustment but wasn't sure what I was measuring :)

Went to adjust ignition timing, and the screws holding the point plates are locked tight and not budging. To make things worse, I over-torqued a new Allen bolt when screwing the alternator cover back on, stripping the crankcase threads :( luckily it's the top of three alternator cover bolts and no oil is leaking.

The bike runs great and I am wary of doing any more damage- I may look for a reputable mechanic, and hopefully one who won't mind showing me some of the answers
to what seem like simple questions.
 

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Bone said:
I bought a generic 12v thermal flasher and installed it, blinkers worked. Went on a 40 minute trip and blew the main fuse :( guess it's time to inspect every wire.

The maintenance weekend didn't go as well as I planned either. I followed the steps to adjust the cam chain tensioner but am not sure if it did anything. Moved on to valve adjustment but wasn't sure what I was measuring :)

Went to adjust ignition timing, and the screws holding the point plates are locked tight and not budging. To make things worse, I over-torqued a new Allen bolt when screwing the alternator cover back on, stripping the crankcase threads :( luckily it's the top of three alternator cover bolts and no oil is leaking.

The bike runs great and I am wary of doing any more damage- I may look for a reputable mechanic, and hopefully one who won't mind showing me some of the answers
to what seem like simple questions.
Those who have been doing mechanics will tell you it's more of a matter of patience.

The more you do this the easier it comes to you. I have been wrenching on things for over 10 years now, and it's still not as simple as i would like it often, but, a little thinking and waiting you can usually get most of it.

As for blowing your main fuse, check the fuse connectors, those are often horrible contact area on the fuse as well.

Also, invest in a impact screw driver (harbor freight 6 bucks) and for the over torque on the allen bolts, learn your strength! when in doubt, torque wrench.

Keep in mind you have a 30+ year old motorcycle with an unknown amount of neglect before you bought it, and an unknown about of general decay. Things will break, and things will fall off, not work, stop working, start working randomly. This is the soul of the vintage motorcycle. The enjoyment of working on it should be almost as fun as riding it, and becoming one with the machine. It comes, just in time, and lessons learned. And, keep in mind, the next bike, will be that much easier.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I agree, the wrenching is fun for me, and part of the charm. I guess I'm trying to enjoy the honeymoon with a running bike right now before I go too deep and make it un-rideable for a while :)

The generic flasher unit, on closer inspection, is already dented up- seems like it's a little too big compared to the OEM one, to fit under the tank near the frame.

The good news is that just a little tuning of the air mixture screws seemed to make a difference in how this thing runs- before I struggled to hit 65, now I hit 75-80 on the same road going into the wind (and I weigh 190).

What I need is a mentor, you guys are helpful but I think I need someone looking over my shoulder. I had no idea where to measure valve clearance, and wasn't sure if I was doing a lot of this properly. I am all for learning from mistakes but I need to know I'm making them. Thanks for the encouragement though... I know this will be a labor of love.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My other question- since I stripped out the screw hole (not the screw, but the crankcase where it goes in), how trivial is it for someone to re-tap that thread? Will they need to add filler (weld) material, or what? I'd hate to buy a new left crankcase cover for ~100 bucks.
 

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Sensei
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If all you need is the alternator side case (that holds the round cover) I can probably scrounge one up for you...( Not 100%, but 80% sure I have one). E-mail me a shipping address to [email protected] ..... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hell, that's community support for ya! Thanks man, that's exactly the part I need. E-mail sent.
 
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