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Discussion Starter #101
Long awaited success! A little more than two years after the original piston/cylinder/valve/cam/follower/valve seat/etc/etc damage from no oil in the middle of Northen Nevada (and having to drive home to Portland), I started the bike! And it didn't blow up. In fact, it ran strong and powerful. So much compression on this completely rebuilt upper end. I'm a little more familiar with the upper end than I planned to be, having torn it down and reassembled three times, but hey, third time's the charm. I think I did it right this time.

Can't wait to take her out on the road.

I did do the oil tranfer piece mod recommended by crazy PJ and I'm strongly considering running a 5W-40 oil and seeing about replacing clutch springs.

Final (planned) step in the rebuild is to send off my mangled followers to be resurfaced. The followers currently in the bike are from a parts engine I had. They were so much better than the ones ruined by oil starvation that I assumed they were good, but Chris told me that they still looked rough. Here's a pic of the worst one.
309567


Would you guys agree this needs to be replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Since I have four followers, I was thinking of using Delta Cam. Is that the currently recommended provider? Jim had mentioned that some people have had some trouble with them.

I came across this post from five years ago that gives some good info I could include to insure they do their work correctly....
hondatwins.net/threads/cb450-cam-follower-profile.36782/
 

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A side view would likely show that some material is gone from the surface leaving a bit of a dished look, but it's in good enough shape to be resurfaced. Though Delta has done some nice work in the past, recently at least a couple people have had some issues with them so I'm not sure of what's going on there. Couldn't hurt to send that info and a good follower as a sample (and mark it as such), then follow up with a call to them after your tracking shows the package was delivered to them
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Thanks Tom.

These are the mangled followers that I was planning on sending for resurfacing. They are off my original engine after the oil starvation issue. I'm wondering if they look like they are good enough shape to be resurfaced...

309588

309589
 

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They're all pretty rough and 3 of the 4 looks like they got really hot, compared to just hot... my only concern in that case is the strength of the metal after that much heat, but I'm not an engineer or whoever would be able to make that judgement. As scarce as they are right now, I'd try to get them all done
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Okay, great feedback. I think I'll run that concern by the dudes at Delta Cam. Will keep you updated!

Just to be clear, I have "OK" followers installed in the head. Wanted to be able to keep the bike running and work out kinks while I wait potentially for a long time for a Washington state based business. I could send those over to Delta too and just get 8 followers resurfaced. Those other 4 don't have heat discoloration. If people have been running into issues with Delta, though, I don't necessarily want to risk all of my followers at once.
 

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If you spend a little time on eBay you can run across people selling 450 followers and shafts - which I noticed one of yours looked like it was galled a bit on one end, which is odd - and if you're lucky you'll find them at a Buy Now price instead of bidding on them and paying too much. I bought 4 used ones a while back for something like $40... they're out there but you have to be patient, and right now what else do we have to do? Well, unless you're in one of those impatient places that's re-opening too soon so more of us will get sick
 

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Discussion Starter #108
I'll keep my eyes out. Thanks for the tip. +1 to taking it easy on the reopening. It's hard right now but it will be even harder if death rates go above the high levels they already are at....

Just popped out on my first break-in ride. Maybe it's just because I've been riding my other two bikes, but I forgot how powerful this bike is. Whooowhee. It was hard to keep it relatively easy riding.

Also making that difficult was what I think is an air-leak happening. The bike is fine until about 3000 rpm, at which point it takes off and the rpms shoot up. Then it doesn't go back to idle unless I force it back down with the gearbox. One of my clamps from the boot to the carburetor might be stripped. Going to replace those before next start-up. Are hose clamps OK or is there a better clamp I should use?
Also, Chris Schumann noticed my left boot was leaking and couldn't get results on a leak-down test until he took it off. I put some hondabond on the mating surfaces and tightened it up... Not sure if there is a better way to do that. I could cut a new gasket for at least the left boot...
 

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Did you replace both carb boots? It's cheap insurance for the long run. The factory clamps look nice and when everything is new they work well, but down the road they get screwed up because people don't realize they have a limit and will clamp fully together, screw bottomed out and then the clamp gets twisted when someone later tries to tighten them even more. I'm not fond of the look of hose clamps but there are nicer aftermarket band clamps out there that are wider than stock and do a better job. I used American hose clamps on mine, just turned them under a little to keep them form looking so garish. The idle situation could also be the springs on the advancer are a bit weak from age, don't know if you've checked it yet or it was mentioned previously but they can be a culprit. Engines get advanced and like to stay that way :)

And yeah, I like the overall power of the 450 engine... bigger soup cans make more go
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Didn't realize a new set of boots was under $30. I just ordered a pair for that security as I do plan to take the bike on some overnight trips this summer.

While I wait I'm seeing if I can't track down another culprit. This morning I replaced the suspect clamp with a hose clamp, much snugger fit around the carb. I fired her up and sprayed some carb cleaner around the carb-head connection. I felt like the engine bogged down a little instead of an increase of speed... I took the bike out for 10-15 minutes, and the RPMs were still shooting up after around 3000 and then hanging up at about 3500-3800 (according to my tach).
Came back home and tried spraying some carb cleaner again at carb-head connection and my engine bogged down and died. Not sure if there is a correlation there, but it sure seems like they were related. :unsure:

I did assure that my advance was working well during the rebuild. However, I'm not ruling that out.

Once my new boots come in, I may just clean the carbs well as they haven't been cleaned for over two years, much of that time spent sitting on a shelf...
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Well by golly, while the spark advance snapped back, one of the spark advance springs was loose. I turned the ends slightly and it now fits snuggly. Waiting now for the bike to cool down before I have another break-in ride to see if that changes anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Good news is the engine doesn't hang at 3K anymore. The bad is that once past 3500-4000 rpm the engine revs up quickly, uncontrollably. I can cruise at speed without much trouble, and the engine settles back down to idle when I roll back the throttle, but it makes starting from a standstill sort of unnerving. I was also getting some slight sputtering and low power when starting from a stop.
Thoughts?
 

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Are you sure the timing is still set correctly now? If the timing changed after you put the plate back in and it's now a little retarded, once it gets up into the advance range it will "want" to rev up more
 

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Wish I could ride it for 2 minutes... this kind of stuff is crazy. All you can do is go back over everything again. Is it possible you tightened up the loose spring a bit too much? If it takes more revs to get the advance going the reaction could be that. It's funny sounding to say, but mechanical advance engines "like" to be advanced and it can change things quickly
 

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Discussion Starter #118
I was thinking about over-tightening as a culprit, too. I guess it's such an unspecific thing that I don't really know what's "right." Should the spring be just barely taut at rest, or a 'little' more than taut? I think right now they are both a 'little' more than taut.

Wondering if the carbs could have anything to do with it...
 

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Wish you could ride it too! But we are about as far apart as we can be in the lower 48... ha!
Yup, Seattle is about the only place further that I've actually been to... Nothing to "lose", try loosening up the springs a little. They should basically just be beginning to stretch when the weights start moving with only a small amount of base tension, not much at all but not loose or sloppy.
 
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