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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

thanks for taking the time to read. I've been rebuilding my bike ('72 CL350) off and on again due to "life" getting in the way. I've found some time to get back into it and was able to put in the crank and transmission today. I found two issues that I need to resolve before buttoning up the cases.

First, I noticed that I am missing one dowel pin. What I find strange about it, the missing dowel pin does not to seem to serve a purpose as it does not correspond or recess into the bearing closest to the the alternator side. See images attached:

IMG_2119.jpg

As per the manual there are three dowel pins and a locator pin (green arrow)

IMG_2121.jpg

I am missing the far right dowel pin in the above photo.


IMG_2120.jpg

In this photo you can see the recess in the far left bearing, the two dowel pins in the centre bearings, and none (and no recess) in the far right bearing.


IMG_2122.jpg

The arrow is pointing to where the dowel is supposed to sit (there's not even a hole deep for it to sink into - it just sits there). And the bearing has no recesses for it to locate onto and doesn't seem like it would do much good even if I had the dowel pin - the other three pins seem to lock the crank in place.



Secondly, I'm also missing the black rubber sealing ball that goes into the oil passage in the upper case. Does anyone have a spare that I could buy or know of where (other than CMS) to get one? I did an eBay search but no luck.

Any suggestions and knowledge passed on would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers Fellas.
 

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I'm certainly no authority, but I do know that the manual is not always right. As Boomer notes above, models and designs change over the life of the manual. Even Honda is manned by humans, and like us all, typos, etc. happen. Your particular issue may have been covered in a later update or addendum to the manual or just...

The translation of Japanese to English in 70's can sometimes be comparable to modern Chinese to English instructions. I think we can all relate to that analogy. :eek: Reviewing my own manual yesterday before installing pistons I noticed for the first time that it directs the user to install the pistons "with the arrow pointing to the top of the engine." :-? Hmmm, yes that's helpful. :D

The manual is indispensable. It is not infallible. Luckily we have HondaTwins for such occasions! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Dennis - PM’d you back.
And thank you oupa - LoL, yes lots can get lost in translation! Might explain things.

I’m just wondering if I would still need that dowel pin? I’m guessing that I could get away with not having it since it doesn’t lock anything into place.

I DO need that little rubber ball however!
 

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Is it possible that someone split the cases already before and changed the bearing race? Any evidence e.g. excessive use of sealant or so? Just guessing cause it doesn’t make much sense to leave one bearing without the pin.
 

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Early crankshafts used a locating pin for that bearing, yours doesn't.

Sent a PM about a ball.
Boomer or anyone else in the know. As I understand it Bigring has ballbearings on either end of his later style crank vs the earlier crankshafts having ballbearings on the drivegear end and needle bearings on the Rotor end. Any advantage to going to a ballbearing on the rotor end on older cranks? I have a 70 with the needlebearings and I’m curious as my motor is currently apart.
 

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Boomer or anyone else in the know. As I understand it Bigring has ballbearings on either end of his later style crank vs the earlier crankshafts having ballbearings on the drivegear end and needle bearings on the Rotor end. Any advantage to going to a ballbearing on the rotor end on older cranks? I have a 70 with the needlebearings and I’m curious as my motor is currently apart.
I won't claim to be in the know but I can tell you I have never seen a failure of these bearings of either type so stay with what you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No Frisian, no wear shown at all. And by the build of these bearings, as Boomer made reference, they’re built to last. I’m just wondering if the later CL/CBs didn’t have bearings on the alternator side with recessed for the dowel pins. Would have made sense not to re-cast a brand new upper case if that were the situation.

As per the rubber ball - is its only function to stop oil completely or was it meant to move around and asssit with pressurizing and allow oil to move? If it’s sole purpose is to stop the flow of oil would it be advisable to just block that passage with a heavy duty sealant, JB weld, or the such? One would think you’d want something pretty permanent.
 

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No Frisian, no wear shown at all. And by the build of these bearings, as Boomer made reference, they’re built to last. I’m just wondering if the later CL/CBs didn’t have bearings on the alternator side with recessed for the dowel pins. Would have made sense not to re-cast a brand new upper case if that were the situation.

As per the rubber ball - is its only function to stop oil completely or was it meant to move around and asssit with pressurizing and allow oil to move? If it’s sole purpose is to stop the flow of oil would it be advisable to just block that passage with a heavy duty sealant, JB weld, or the such? One would think you’d want something pretty permanent.
Bigring, I just measured my rubber ball. Its 9mm. If nothing else can you do a local search for one that size?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Too long of an ETA - part would be coming from China and crazy expensive. CMSL price, with shipping to Canada, as approx 27 euros - so close to $50 Cdn. My pockets aren’t deep enough for that.

It was suggested either using a good rtv silicone like permatex ‘the right stuff’ to block the passage. I was also told to find a rubber ball, preferably nitrile, and carve/shape/sand down to the proper size - would never get it perfectly round.

Anyone with any other suggestions or places to find one?

Thanks Fellas.
 
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