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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
losing battery power after full charge and engine turnover. (alternator?) bike will start and only stay running for a few seconds. (yes my petcock valve is open):D:D:D
 

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The CDI ignition on your bike is an independent system. The battery has nothing to do with the spark, in fact it will run just fine with the battery removed.

Give us some history. Has the bike been sitting for an extended time? Was it running fine and just started having issues?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So I don't have much history about it before I bought it, other than it only had one owner. I bought it at the beginning of last spring And didn't do much maintenance to it it's my first bike all I wanted to do was ride it. So I did just that, then at the end of the Riding season somebody tried to steal it by smashing the ignition switch all up, I caught them in the middle of it! I so now I'm stuck with no ignition switch or way to start it all Winter season I scoured the virtual Highway, America, and Canada, and the UK for an oem ignition switch. I finally locate d one in a bike boneyard in Ontario with no key took it to a locksmith to have a key made of course the key codes not on the ignition switch outside of it which means it's on the key cylinder inside. this guy has had it for 4 days I'm thinking about going to pick it up and taking it somewhere else now mind you I took the pigtail off of the ignition switch before I took it to him.

so needless to say being my first bike I didn't do any research about storing it I took it to my buddies, put it in the shed and left it there, had a half a tank of gas in it in and the oil. as it got closer to this year's riding season I started doing some research and realized I probably screwed up by not draining the gas or putting some kind of stabilizer in it.

So about a week ago, mind you the ignition switch is messed up, I don't have a way to start it.
I had been trying to figure out a way to start the bike for about a month.
My buddies new roommate comes out and says here let me show you a trick, he touches the screwdriver to the starter solenoid nuts and Bam my bike starts up, first try not even a stutter in the engine!

So I'm excited at this point I let the bike idle and run for about 15 minutes, It does so without skipping a Beat.
When I bought this bike it started right up everytime I started this bike I started right up first try no ifs ands or buts. I drive the bike home a little bit of a long ride as I took the scenic route because I was just happy to be on my bike.

I figured out that I can take that pigtail turn that little white contact switch until the lights turn on on my bike and then it will turn over and start I had it started in my yard in front of my house working on it the night I brought it home last week. that was the last time it started (Now that I think about it. I'm wondering if I too jumped it by the solenoid and never originally tried the ignition switch pigtail?) (Also wondering if that's how I killed the battery)

My plan was to get her home break her down figure out why my turn signals not working and a few other little minor things. I thought about watching tutorials in reading the shop manual on cleaning the carbs. I'm not a mechanic at all but when I put my mind to something I can figure it out, except this, this kind of stuff stumps me. I know a computer like a mechanic knows an engine.

I've been working on it for over a week just troubleshooting little things, checked all of my grounds, did some voltage testing, replacing fuses, ( can anybody link me to the thread about modifying the fuse box to one like in a car), I also checked Spark, (I have spark on both sides), and other things that I followed out of the shop manual and off of Dennis Kirk website As much as I can but I've been very busy that's why it's taken me so long to get back to this post as well as updating a few others.

My first guess is the battery as you said it will run fine without the battery. Had the battery tested at AutoZone bad battery, replace the battery.
So, I change the Flasher for my turn signals my signals work but they do not light up as running lights I bought a novita 552 flasher as there was a 552 flasher in it I'm not even sure if that's the correct flasher. it's got single filament bulbs which I assume are stock I don't see them having double filament back then in 1982.

Also, there was an aftermarket Emgo ignition switch (The one they screwed up when they tried to steal it) that has 4 prongs instead of the OEM ignition switch six prongs, it was a five prong connection, the PO removed one of the prongs Everything seemed to work correctly with that ignition switch.
( before scouring the Earth for the OEM ignition switch I scoured the internet for this Emgo ignition switch and cannot find it, hence why I searched out the OEM in Canada)
Since getting the OEM ignition switch from Canada I plug that pigtail in and also everything seemed to work as it should, Just waiting for the locksmith to make a key for it, in the meantime using the pigtail to switch the power off and on and so that I can turn it over, I'd really like this bike to start.

I was out there tinkering with it tonight and found out that my choke cable is seized up. my question about that is does that have anything to do with the carburetor or did that cable itself need replaced.
I have a new tach, tach cable, throttle cable, ( and another cable I'm not quite sure off the top of my head which one it is) on the way on Friday from another member of The Forum. (You guys are great by the way!!!) because they broke the tach glass when trying to jam up the ignition switch.
It does have gas in the gas tank (that sat all winter with no additives) and all the bike does is turn over. I'm I'm wondering if all of this has to do with the carburetor, maybe the floats?, maybe the carburetor itself needs cleaned?
I don't know, I'm only going by what little research I've done, I'm hoping that somebody here can help me out via virtual Highway without having to take it to a mechanic.
I would rather learn how to do it myself.

I definitely appreciate you guys and your time. if you have any other questions that may help you help me diagnose this problem do not hesitate to ask I will be waiting for your reply, Thank you!

-Brandon

 

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The choke cable closes the choke (for cold starts, sounds like yours starts without it), but that didn't just happen and isn't causing your problem. Good idea to replace it when you have the carbs off anyway.

Since it does start momentarily you apparently have spark and compression. That leaves the fuel/air mixture.

Attempt to start the bike then remove the spark plugs. Are they wet or dry?

Turn on the petcock, then open the drain screws on the bottom of the carb bowls (placing an OSHA approved environmentally correct container under the drain to catch the fuel). There should be a steady flow of fuel. If not, there may be a restriction in the flow of fuel to the carbs, or the float or float valves may be stuck (unlikely to happen to both carbs at the same time).

Since you plan on going through the carbs anyway, unless your troubleshooting leads elsewhere, you might want to study this before you start:

http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/63-fuel-supply-carburation/24191-rebuilding-vbulletin-carbs.html
 

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There's a new sticky in the Electrical section for making the blade type fuse block work.
If the battery is draining then charge it up, connect your VOM set on volts to the negative cable and negative battery post. You should read zero volts meaning there's nothing on. If you have any reading at all then start disconnecting components until the voltage goes away. Whatever component fixes that is the source of the drain. Sometimes it a unit that has power from another source so you may need to follow where the power comes from. I've had voltage regulators cause a drain because of a bad diode nternally which requires replacement since they're not serviceable.
 

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Bookmarking.

"So, I change the Flasher for my turn signals my signals work but they do not light up as running lights" - check your wiring, find a diagram if you don't have one. Also, check that the wiring to the signals wasn't tampered with previously. also check your connections on the relay.

As far as the starting and running issue - stupid, I know, check your oil. Just do, if the engine's too hot it'll shut itself down.

But overall sounds like an electrical - specifically your ignition switch - problem to me. You can clean up that switch, just be careful not to lose the springs and ball bearings inside.
 

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Might have missed this. The front turn signal lights also function as running lights, powered by the headlight circuit. The rear turn signals function as turn signals only, not running lights. Rear bulbs are single filament, front bulbs are dual filament.
 

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Yeah - that's what I meant by wiring - it is possible, I've seen it - that the PO switched out the front winkers to a single filament.
 
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