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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, we've determined that 2 of my valves are leaking enough that I think they need to be reground.

I've been putting off taking the head apart but I can hold off no longer. For those that have gone before me, what say you?

  • Do I need a special tool for the torsion spring?
  • Would you replace the valve guide seals (8k on the motor).
  • Would you just lap the valves or spend the money for someone with the proper tools to re-cut or grind the seats/valve? I can handle the lapping myself and I suppose it's one of those things where I have to pull the valves out to inspect before I can make that decision.
  • RE: cleaning the carbon. I've got the tools to wire brush the valves and the combustion chambers. How have others cleaned out the intake/ex ports? Can they be blasted without fear of grit getting the oil galleys?

I'm going to have my blaster guy use plastic on the exterior (he has the cylinders now) parts. I was going to put the valve covers on and tape them up before taking it over there. I want to polish the valve covers so I'd like them protected. With all the covers in place, it's my hope that the grit will stay out assuming I tape up the stud holes as well.

How have others handled this type of disassembly/cleanup before.

Johnny, I've just reviewed the process you used and it was helpful. I don't have a big dishwasher type of cleaner to help with that chore so I'll have to do something else. What did you use to clean the intake/exhaust ports?
 

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MNellis said:
  • Do I need a special tool for the torsion spring?
  • Would you replace the valve guide seals (8k on the motor).
  • Would you just lap the valves or spend the money for someone with the proper tools to re-cut or grind the seats/valve?


  • No special tool required for torsion bars.
    If they're (guide seals) included in your gasket kit, why not???
    I would let the machinist make that call - he's the best judge of whether or not they need to be reground.
    But frankly, he can lap them better than either of us anyway..........
 

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Johnny, I've just reviewed the process you used and it was helpful. I don't have a big dishwasher type of cleaner to help with that chore so I'll have to do something else. What did you use to clean the intake/exhaust ports?

Mike, I cleaned the entire head by glass beading it after the oil and grease were removed in the Storm King washer. I spent a lot of time cleaning it after to make sure there was no debris left in the head any where. Most shops have some kind of part washer, they save the technician a lot of time. If you deal with an automotive business they would probably throw the head in and let it wash for no charge or at least very cheap. Too bad you're not closer, I'd be happy to do the valves and seats for you but shipping the head to me would be expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
tbpmusic said:
No special tool required for torsion bars.
If they're (guide seals) included in your gasket kit, why not???
I would let the machinist make that call - he's the best judge of whether or not they need to be reground.
But frankly, he can lap them better than either of us anyway..........
I don't have the gasket kit and don't know if they're included or not. If they are include then it's an easy answer. The quote from the dealer for 4 seals is almost $40. 'Spensive buggers.

Is there such a thing as "engine seal" kit? I don't know if the various seals (shift shaft, counter shaft, etc.) seals are included in the gasket kit. If they are not then what's the alternative....to identify each seal piece by piece and order separately?

I got my parts list back from the dealer today. I had some things on there that I probably will not need (cam chain guide wheel, gas cap, etc.) but my local dealer was about 20% higher than the internet price and that included a 10% discount to me. He offered to up the discount to 15% if I ordered the parts.

I'll probably order from the deal even though it's an extra $100. They're good guys and local so I'll support them and enjoy their service if I get a wrong part or something.
 

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MNellis said:
I don't have the gasket kit and don't know if they're included or not. If they are include then it's an easy answer. The quote from the dealer for 4 seals is almost $40. 'Spensive buggers.

Is there such a thing as "engine seal" kit? I don't know if the various seals (shift shaft, counter shaft, etc.) seals are included in the gasket kit. If they are not then what's the alternative....to identify each seal piece by piece and order separately?
Then buy a gasket kit that includes everything - the good ones will have all the o-rings and valve guides too.

Yes there are seal kits - check some of the EBay vendors....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Bill, that auction has been on my watch list.

Question; when you've rebuilt motors in the past how have you dealt with the oil seals. Have you just replaced them with NOS parts one by one or did Honda have an oil seal kit you'd crack open.
 

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MNellis said:
Thanks Bill, that auction has been on my watch list.

Question; when you've rebuilt motors in the past how have you dealt with the oil seals. Have you just replaced them with NOS parts one by one or did Honda have an oil seal kit you'd crack open.

Depends on what you mean by "the past" - that covers a lot of ground.
Back in The Day, you just got the parts singly at the Parts counter. Maybe $4 for every seal in the engine. I don't recall any seal "kits" from Honda, but that was a long time ago.......

On these bikes at least, those days are history, and I've used these seal kits for a long time.
They are less expensive than piece-mealing them from Honda.
As a matter of course, I replace all seals, o-rings, stuff like that when rebuilding.
Usually everything is covered in one of the good gasket/seal kits, including valve guide seals.
 
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