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LED turn signal issue (1974 Honda CB360)

9K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  Yendor 
#1 ·
Ive purchased some LED turn signals and had success wiring resistors to the rear set. The work great. The fronts are a different story. I know that everything is functional because the stock signals still work when I plug them in. But when I try the LEDs I get nothing. I wired the resistor to the ground and power coming out of the LED signal. If anyone has had the same issue while installing the LEDs and has a possible solution (i.e. I have wired the resistor to the wrong ground) I would greatly appreciate some help. Thank you.
 
#5 ·
Wiring in resistors is not solving anything but getting the LED blinkers to actually blink. It's removing some of the positive effects of installing LEDs in the first place. Saving voltage and lifetime of the LEDs is the main goal, right?

By using an LED "no load" flasher, you're actually taking advantage of the voltage saving of using LEDs. Using a resistor, you're wasting that gain.


GB :mrgreen:
 
#6 ·
Bird76Mojo said:
Wiring in resistors is not solving anything but getting the LED blinkers to actually blink. It's removing some of the positive effects of installing LEDs in the first place. Saving voltage and lifetime of the LEDs is the main goal, right?

By using an LED "no load" flasher, you're actually taking advantage of the voltage saving of using LEDs. Using a resistor, you're wasting that gain.


GB :mrgreen:
I save by using hand signals. The mounted LED's are for passin inspection up here.
 
#7 ·
I appreciate the help guys. It must have something to do with the way I have it wired. The resistors are 8ohm 20 watts. The rear signals are wired the same way and work fine. The fronts give me nothing. For now I have the Stock signals on the front and the LEDs on the back. Works for now.
 
#8 ·
Check polarity (positive/negative) Just a thought since I have no idea if you're using them in the stock housings or not.

Is your front/rear wiring set up differently where the fronts stay on as running lights and the rears do not (or vice versa?) Something else to check into.

Otherwise they should work if they're getting 12v and it's hooked up in the right direction.
 
#10 ·
I don't have any pics to show this but here we go.

#1 Install an electronic flasher.
#2 No resistors are needed.
#3 Currently, your turn indicator bulb is connected across both sides of you signals. Disconnect it.
#4 Ground one side of said indicator bulb.
#5 Wire a diode from each side such that it passes current from the turn signal connection you removed the
bulb connection from to the loose connection of this rewired indicator bulb.
#6 Do not use an LED for the indicator, your flasher needs the load from a standard bulb to flash.
#7 Install LEDs in all four signals.

Alternatively, use two indicator bulbs wired from hot side of turn signal circuit to ground in place of above circuit and forget the diodes all together.

I have used both methods on my mutant 360 and both work great. My current instrument cluster has two indicators, so that is what I use.
 
#12 ·
What things? Electronic flashers? I saw a bunch at Pep Boy's today, 12 bucks. Or if you're talking about LED signals, it's a lot of preference on style.

For the OP, you sure you're not wired into the running lamp plug? I know 99% of aftermarket LEDs for these old bikes are 2 wire setups, not the 3 wire we have for the front.
 
#13 ·
Any auto parts store will have the flashers, I believe i got mine from Auto Zone, but Pep Boys, Oreilies, NAPA, Etc should have them.

The best place I have found for the LED modules to fit stock turn signals is Pep Boys. (Short of ordering them online)
Also, TA, Flying J & other truck stops will have them.

I suggest the small round ones with all LEDs facing outward for our turn signals & the big one with LEDs all around it for tail/brake lamps. (These worked best on my CB360)
 
#17 ·
Not sure why someone decided to respond to an 8 year old thread but here is 2 cents.
If you are switching to LED's to save current, adding resistors to the circuit to make it work completly nullifies that gain.
 
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