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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone! I’m in the middle of replacing my clutch plates and cleaning the oil filter on my 72cb350 and since i’ve owned the bike, the kick has worked but never returned. I always have to manually lift it. The PO said something about a cracked piece, and that was why but i’m finally getting around to verifying what was cracked for myself. Pics below. Also from comparison pics i’ve googled, the spring and kickrod positions weren’t correct from what I can tell.

I’d like to get some opinions on my options, I know a REALLY good welder who does moto work but of this missing part is non critical, i’d rather just get everything positioned correctly and back together.

Thanks!





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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I turned the kick rod 180 deg and is now positioned like so.



It seems to be operating as it should. If anyone who knows about the broken piece could chime in I would greatly appreciate it!


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It appears that whoever was in there before you noticed the broken piece, and either reinstalled the kick shaft incorrectly, or the circlip retaining it broke, allowing the shaft to move axially and the clip is floating around in your bottom end somewhere. Was the circlip present when you pulled the side cover off? As for the broken piece, I believe it acts as a baffle for the oil to keep a consistent level on the clutch plates during hard cornering. Any time I come across any broken or missing pieces inside a clutch or stator cover, I assume the worst and split the cases to try and find it. Best case scenario, the prior owner noticed it was cracked and manually removed it. Worst case, he noticed it was cracked and did nothing, and it eventually broke off and is sitting in your crankcase waiting to really screw your engine up and possibly severely injure you. It's your call but I'd dig deeper and verify that it isn't in your bottom end. Maybe get in contact with the PO to see if he has any more info? Just my .02.

-Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Russ! Thanks for the reply. The Circlip was on the kick rod when I took the side cover off, no 18mm washer though. So today I cleaned all the nasty oil filter bits, new o rings and oil seals, new clutch plates and springs, and from the looks of it the kick returns beautifully. I got it all back together and after letting the carbs fill it kicked over about the 3rd try. Idled with choke for a min then off and she was right there purrrrrrrr. Went for a spin and WOW those new plates and springs make all the difference.

I would have to guess that the PO saw it was cracked and removed it because the other components in right side case are good.

As for the kick and the one thing i’ve noticed different is that I can’t roll the bike backwards when it is in gear and I am holding the clutch in. Would this mean I need to adjust my clutch lever or would this be an issue with the kickstart not fully disengaging for some reason?


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You need to find and install the washer on the kick shaft just inside of the side case. If not you will have issues with the kicker mechanism again.

with the clutch in you should be able to bush the bike forward and backward easily...if not something is not installed or adjusted properly. Start by disconnecting the clutch cable and making sure the clutch cam actuator on the left side cover is adjusted correctly. Then reattach and adjust the clutch cable. After properly adjusting if you still can’t easily push the bike with the clutch in then something in cases is broken or assembled incorrectly
 

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If the problem is omnidirectional and you can still roll the bike forward with the clutch pulled, for me that'd point to the kick shaft not disengaging the dogs on the ratcheting gear inside the case, not allowing you to move the bike in the opposite direction. It could either be the friction spring being worn or something was reassembled incorrectly. Do you hear a clicking sound when moving the bike forward in gear with the clutch pulled? Do you hear any new or different sounds after reassembling everything?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I hear the clicking noise when its running in neutral and it goes away when I pull the clutch lever in. When the bike on the center stand I carefully put it into first and let out the clutch and the clicking sound comes back


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It sounds like the dogs on the idler gear aren't disengaging from the kick starter. If I were you, I'd pull it apart and either go through the whole assembly with a fine tooth comb and assure that it has been put back together correctly and there are no broken or worn components, or just replace the whole kick shaft assembly. You should be able to source a good working unit on ebay relatively inexpensively. The problem is that being up so high in the case, the two gears aren't being bathed in oil, and although they are meant to slide over each other, that's only between kicks or for a split second after the bike starts, not during idling or riding. Other people should feel free to chime in with a second opinion, but if it were me, I'd pull the motor and get to work on splitting the cases, it's going to save you a lot of headache in the long run.

-Russ
 

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Yep I’d have to agree with the above ...sounds like the likely cause

sounds like your kicker gear is not disengaging from the idler gear
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I took the cover off again today to try and see if I could maybe shake things loose but alas I think the PO may have had the case open at one point, you can see the sealant goo around the case seam.

Is it possible to install the kick rod 180 deg out of phase? The first few pictures are how it has been since ive owned the bike. You can see the dog ear positioned around 2 o clock there

The picture in my first comment showing I rotated the rod clockwise to bring the dog ear to its current position, around 10 o clock. If installed “out of phase” and then turning further clockwise to where it currently rests would in theory put too much tension on the internal mechanism to allow it to release?

Going to dive in and break the case once the weather in TN warms up. 3 hours in the unheated barn today around 15 degrees was fun but painful after while! 4 pairs of rubber gloves to keep the cold tools from hurting my hands and an insulated Carhartt jump suit did the trick for a little bit!


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I think if anything, turning it clockwise would cause the dogs of the ratcheting mechanism to move further apart, rather than closer together. I suppose you could try rotating the shaft 360 degrees counter-clockwise and see if that solves anything, but I wouldn't get my hopes up. I hear you loud and clear about the cold, this is my first year in a heated shop. Many cold winters spent out in the garage with a space heater!

-Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey Russ,
Yeah I tried to rotate counter clockwise but I can’t get the spring mount on the shaft past the stop on the block if that makes sense. Turning it clockwise seemed to be the only way to get it in proper position to tension the spring.

Maybe I can get by with 3 or more space heaters hahahahaha


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
UPDATE:

So I spent this morning getting the Engine out of the frame and getting the case split.



It turns out that everyones advice was correct that the kick mechanism was not disengaging. From the looks of it I really think someone installed it wrong.



A few things occurred/noticed in the process today.

I discovered the wires on my stator are almost broken coming from one set of coils from what I can tell. Isn’t there a post about a new upgraded coil someone is making?



There is a crack/puncture on the piece behind the stator magnet. Any ideas on if this should be replaced as well?



I somehow broke the the kickstart return stop on the lower case. I must have twisted the engine in the wrong direction while it was still stuck in an attempt to remove the stator magnet.



So i’m on the hunt for a new stator and a new lower for this guy. If anyone has them lying around and would like to make some money, let me know. Ill also post in the parts wanted section to see if that helps.

Woo i’m tired and need some lunch!

-Logan




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Rick's Motorsport Electrics can supply you with an upgrade rectifier-regulator and stator, but it's not cheap. As far as the hole on the rotor, I had one do that and it was the pin for the starter clutch breaking it's way through. I'd suggest disassembling it and welding the hole or replacing that part of the starter clutch if you can find one. They're no longer available from Honda.

..........Paul
 

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I may have a spare stator (untested it came from a previously siezed engine I have been taking apart for parts) You could have it for shipping. I do live in Canada.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I may have a spare starter (untested it came from a previously siezed engine I have been taking apart for parts) You could have it for shipping. I do live in Canada.
Hey Crash,
Thanks for the offer, I am buying a new case bottom and stator from a guy on here and he also offered to throw in the starter clutch.

Is that what you mean’t or do you mean the starter clutch?


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Ya I just fixed that. The thingy with the broken wires that spins around the magnet. Or the magnet spins around it ...so tired today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ya I just fixed that. The thingy with the broken wires that spins around the magnet. Or the magnet spins around it ...so tired today.
No worries friend! Thanks for the offer. I’ll keep you in mind if I run into anything else!


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