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Discussion Starter #1
So my chain snapped on my way home from work today and I had to walk the bike 2 miles in the miami heat and humidity. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good strong chain?

Also, when the chain is gone should I notice problems with shifting, you know, aside from not actually being able to get in motion. It should go through all the gears correct? I noticed that at the bottom of the trans case a bolt is snapped and when I pull my clutch lever the case visibly moves as if something is pushing out on the case itself. The gear pedal is somewhat loose and I noticed that I had to pull it out about 1/4" for it to grab on the gears (barrell...whatever it's called.) What symptoms am I looking at? I hope my description was good enough, if there are any questions to help you understand what i am trying to describe please ask as it may help me to figure out any problems through my answers (and yours if you have any for me.) Thanks!
 

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pawn said:
So my chain snapped on my way home from work today and I had to walk the bike 2 miles in the miami heat and humidity. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good strong chain?

Also, when the chain is gone should I notice problems with shifting, you know, aside from not actually being able to get in motion. It should go through all the gears correct? I noticed that at the bottom of the trans case a bolt is snapped and when I pull my clutch lever the case visibly moves as if something is pushing out on the case itself. The gear pedal is somewhat loose and I noticed that I had to pull it out about 1/4" for it to grab on the gears (barrell...whatever it's called.) What symptoms am I looking at? I hope my description was good enough, if there are any questions to help you understand what i am trying to describe please ask as it may help me to figure out any problems through my answers (and yours if you have any for me.) Thanks!
Just a good quality 530 chain. Do NOT get an o-ring chain, this has been discussed many times here.

They may or may not want to shift well when the countershaft is not turning - it's probably not an issue.

I assume by "trans case" you mean the counter sprocket cover??
Replace that screw - the clutch lifter mechanism is behind that cover, you're seeing it push the cover out.
The loose shift lever may be due to a missing circlip on the shift shaft, under the counter sprocket, sort of.
The shift shaft has the shift lever on the left end and extends all the way through the engine to the right side.
So check for that circlip, then let us know what you find....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok I'll check that tomorrow after work and I'll let you know what I find. I'm hoping nothing out of the ordinary. If I can't get to it tomorrow, I will at least be able to get a new bolt for the cover. Thanks for your help!

edit: sorry for the total newbie question, but a 530 chain is the type right, but not the size? What link count is teh stock cb450 k7?
 

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530 indicates width and pitch (pin-to-pin length).....The trans will probably shift once the countershaft is spinning again, although you should check the shifter snap-ring AND for a bent shift-shaft.....A snapped chain (or lost master link) can damage the clutch pushrod as well...check that and the main cases under that "loose cover" for impact damage too.... The neutral switch and alternator wires can also be damaged
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry I didn't get back to this sooner, I don't have internet at home so I haven't been able to respond (and I was out from work last friday.) Anyway, I took the cover off and checked everything, and all seems well...if only a bit dirty from years of chain lube buildup. I'm still waiting on my new chain to come in. I got a Tsubaki (sp?) chain (not an o-ring) with 100 links. I hope to be up and running again before the weeks out. I've also taken to replacing every bolt on my engine since this and using blue loctite to keep all the bolts on the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Another quick question...after some searching on this site I came upon a post that basically put it that when replacing a chain, one should replace the sprockets too. Is that really necessary? My sprockets seem to be in good condition, with no broken or sharpened teeth.
 

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If the teeth/valleys look symmetrical and when you wrap a new chain around the chainwheel it sits evenly in all the valleys, you should be OK with using it. Chains wear faster and suffer from age, which sprockets don't. In my experience, hardened steel sprockets live through a few chains before needing replacement. Last aluminum sprocket I had was decades ago; I don't remember anything about how it wore. Metallurgy years ago wasn't quite what it is today.
 
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