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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, i could use some help as ive been stumped for a bit. I need to remove the rotor to replace my transmission but i cant figure it out. I have the 07933-2160000 tool but i cant seem to find the other piece to the puller for a k6 cb450 anywhere and i have no clue how they are measured. Im completely new to mechanics so im probably missing something super basic, but regardless im stuck lol. Any help is appreciated
 

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You actually don't need to remove the rotor - just the cover with the stator in it. The rotor can stay on the crankshaft when you split the cases
 

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The bottom engine case covers both the crankcase and the transmission; remove it, and all is revealed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
oh ok, i was trying to avoid extracting the engine from the frame if possible. if there's not another way i guess ill start trying to plan that out. do you have any suggestions for removing it?
 

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First - what type of transmission problems are you having? Some issues can be fixed in the right crankcase (clutch) cover. The shift shaft, outer end of the drum and shift detents are all accessible in the frame by removing the clutch cover
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My transmission slips out of 2nd gear and its also stubborn to get into 3rd. Most of the bottom end of the engine i believe is original so going off what info i could gather i figured i should just replace the transmission entirely and check the shift forks for wear
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I already purchased a new transmission with no signs of wear a while back from a '73 cl450 i believe so i do already have that waiting
 

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Sounds like a potentially bent shift fork, and possibly some wear on the engagement dogs on the gears involved, so inspect closely - both of them, as good used sets often have some wear as well. You should still go over the entire detent system, check the rollers and their shafts for slop along with the pins in the end of the shift drum and the star plate/assembly as well for wear... you'll see what I mean when you get there, at this age pretty much all 450s with any significant miles on them will have some (or a lot of) wear on these parts
 

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To remove the engine, I recommend having a platform about as high as the engine in the frame, and put a block under the side stand to hold the bike nearly upright; support the bike so it won't tip over, maybe with straps to the ceiling of your workspace, or some other bracing. Then, wedge a support under the engine, so it is tight, but not actually lifting it, so you can get the bottom mount bolts out. I used a floor jack, with a 1x6 board on it to protect the aluminum, so I could adjust the height as needed. Remove the tank, carbs, and other things that will get in the way. Now, once all the mount bolts are removed, you can roll the engine to one side - I did it on the RH side - and onto the platform. Now you need a support for the engine that will hold it upside-down securely. It weighs something like 80-90 pounds, so make sure you're up to that kind of lifting, or have a linebacker or Marine around.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry, ive been busy with school work so i havent had much time to come on here. Thanks for the advice, ill try and get started on everything soon
 

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The drive dogs on the gears are ever so slightly dovetailed when new, jumping out of gear suggests they are now "worn", which can also effect the selector forks and the rest of the selection/detent mechanism.

Can you post a picture of the rotor you want to remove ?

You know of cmsnl for the exploded views, and, know that the clutch Hub and Basket are circliped on. You will need a peg spanner for the centrifugal oil filter body that may have to be removed to remove the clutch.
 
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