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Discussion Starter #41
The wire deal is just to get the idle screws in exactly the same spot as the starting point. Adjust the throttle cables so the arm on each carb begins to rise at exactly the same time when you twist the throttle. It will never idle that way, though - you have to turn each screw in an equal amount from that point to get an acceptable idle before tuning the idle mixture.
Inside carb is not going to be that easy to get to for any of the adjustments. Too bad they did not have a true right/left setup with carb adjustments facing out.
Any insight into wiring, particularly what is needed to just get it running, headlight-less?
 

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So you're saying the bike has aftermarket carbs? Or 2 left-side or right-side carbs instead of a proper pair? because if neither of those are true, the stock carbs have proper adjustments on the outside of each when in the proper mounted position. Pictures help
 

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Discussion Starter #43
So you're saying the bike has aftermarket carbs? Or 2 left-side or right-side carbs instead of a proper pair? because if neither of those are true, the stock carbs have proper adjustments on the outside of each when in the proper mounted position. Pictures help
Guessing I am working with aftermarket carb or carbs. the adjustments, drain for the left side face inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #50
by the way, my pics are before I cleaned them up some and installed carb rebuild kits (which was not too terrible of an ordeal). I will grab some pictures of the carbs (they are still off the bike) tonight when I go to hopefully install them.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #52
Started some reassembly this afternoon. Did the idle sync on the carbs and then installed them, along with air filters and covers.
Wiring doesn't look as bad as thought. Did solder some splices. Is reconnecting my wiring as simple as matching up colors? Sort of looks that way.
Put bucket on. Realized I will need to find or fashion a grommet for the opening where the wires come through.
Got a message from my exhaust vendor confirming that purchase. Really looking forward to that install.
Noticed most of the bolts are 10mm and those that are not seem to be even numbers.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #54
That's about the going rate for an early CL exhaust in that condition (when you can find one). Looks like a decent deal. Scrub the rust off with a ball of aluminum foil soaked in Coca-Cola. Sounds crazy, but it works. Here's a link to my post where I cleaned up a rusty one like yours.

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/53-miscellaneous-discussion/47265-saving-early-cl350-exhaust.html
Just read through the post, when I should be working. Looking forward to trying the coke-aluminum foil trick.
Can you advise on mounting brackets for the stock cl exhaust. Are they built into the bike. not sure how it mounts. Just was excited to find a reasonably priced, reasonable appearing condition set.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
On my mind regarding this bike:
Charging system;
Brakes;
Engine - tune;
valve adjustments;
Other tune-related functions I have never done before - ie timing;
drive chain adjustment (remember with my bikes a too tight chain would screw up bearings, I think);
electrical system in general;
cam chain adjustment.
First I want to get it running (of course), but I want to get it running right and keep it that way.
 

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Just read through the post, when I should be working. Looking forward to trying the coke-aluminum foil trick.
Can you advise on mounting brackets for the stock cl exhaust. Are they built into the bike. not sure how it mounts. Just was excited to find a reasonably priced, reasonable appearing condition set.
There are 3 brackets for that exhaust: 1) A long, contoured, 2-piece bracket that clamps both pipes and bolts to the swingarm pivot, 2) a small bracket that attaches to the top of the muffler and bolts to the top shock mount, and 3) a 2-piece frame clamp that bolts to the bracket on the back of the muffler. Here are a couple random pics that I have that may help.

The rear half of #1 swung downward for air cleaner installation. #3 clamp visible on the diagonal frame rail (ignore the chrome bracket attached to it).
IMG_3081.jpg

#2 bracket
Top Mount.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #57
There are 3 brackets for that exhaust: 1) A long, contoured, 2-piece bracket that clamps both pipes and bolts to the swingarm pivot, 2) a small bracket that attaches to the top of the muffler and bolts to the top shock mount, and 3) a 2-piece frame clamp that bolts to the bracket on the back of the muffler. Here are a couple random pics that I have that may help.

The rear half of #1 swung downward for air cleaner installation. #3 clamp visible on the diagonal frame rail (ignore the chrome bracket attached to it).
View attachment 279874

#2 bracket
View attachment 279878
I know I have the two-piece bracket near the air breather - it holds my existing exhaust on. Probably can fashion something for the rear bracket. Bracket #3 might be problematic.
 

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Noticed most of the bolts are 10mm and those that are not seem to be even numbers.
There are very few 10mm bolts on your bike.... MOST of its fasteners are 6mm.....

Metric fastener sizing is determined by the shank/threading diameter and thread pitch, NOT the wrench you use to remove/install it.....
With your terminology it is likely to have a "12mm bolt" (actually an 8mm bolt ) mating to a 12, 13, or 14mm nut, ( as 8mm nuts commonly are available with those hex sizes)... To eliminate possible confusion, it helps if we all use the same terminology.......

Note that when first switching from SAE to metric bits, many of us (myself included) made that same terminology error........:oops:
 

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Bracket #3 is just a split P-clamp that goes around the round frame rail. A split P-clamp may be difficult to find, but a regular P-clamp will work if you spread it out enough to pass over the frame rail.

P clamp.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #60
There are very few 10mm bolts on your bike.... MOST of its fasteners are 6mm.....

Metric fastener sizing is determined by the shank/threading diameter and thread pitch, NOT the wrench you use to remove/install it.....
With your terminology it is likely to have a "12mm bolt" (actually an 8mm bolt ) mating to a 12, 13, or 14mm nut, ( as 8mm nuts commonly are available with those hex sizes)... To eliminate possible confusion, it helps if we all use the same terminology.......

Note that when first switching from SAE to metric bits, many of us (myself included) made that same terminology error........:oops:
I guess it would have been better to say - about all you need to keep these bikes going are brains and a 10mm wrench or socket :)
I have been getting familiar with metrics again. About the only metric I have used in a while was the 10mm wrench needed to change a battery on my Harley.
I am also renewing my relationship with my favorite hardware store's bolt/nuts/fastener section.
 
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