Honda Twins banner

21 - 40 of 317 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Thinking about trying out Evaporust in my fuel tank. Not sure if I need to run something else through it prior. My radiator guy said $70 to clean and if I wanted the liner kit, about $200. So might just try a do-it-yourself solution. Wondered if ospho might be a reasonable option, but opted against that approach.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,089 Posts
$200 to clean and line a tank? Yeah, I'd do it myself at that price. Many people here use Evaporust (myself included, though not on a tank yet) but be advised, it will flash rust in a hurry once clean so be prepared to get it rinsed and dried quickly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
$200 to clean and line a tank? Yeah, I'd do it myself at that price. Many people here use Evaporust (myself included, though not on a tank yet) but be advised, it will flash rust in a hurry once clean so be prepared to get it rinsed and dried quickly
My drying approach has been a shop vac. Wonder if after letting it set, treating with ospho would be a reasonable followup.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,089 Posts
Lots of people here have done tanks, I have not as yet - others will be along to share their methods and results. If you don't hear from anyone in a couple days, post a new thread about cleaning and lining the tank and you'll hear from those who have
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Lots of parts have arrived - factory style air filters, used filter covers for both sides, mirrors, right side controls (NOS), allen head bolt kits (two of them), of course the carb rebuild kits and aftermarket mufflers. Awaiting some rubber parts from 4into1 such as rear shock top grommet, side cover grommet kit, battery band. Somewhere among these parts are the handlebar mounting bushings (top and bottom). fuel tank gasket, fuel tank mounting rubbers, inlet manifold gasket.
From a shipping perspective, common motor is great. David Silvers has yet to ship and order that was placed and paid for over a week ago. Four into one was prompt to ship.
So should start on some repairs in earnest tonight, including filling the fuel tank with Evaporust and letting it set overnight. Replacing the necessary components from the right side controls (not sure if I will pull everything or just replace the housing if possible sparing me the joy of redoing cables).
Also need to do an idle sync on the carbs (watched a video on doing that) and also the other carb sync. Both are simple in description.
My muffler baffle wrap comes in tomorrow, so that will be good timing.
My plan with the evaporust tank cleaning is to fill and let set for a day, drain and rinse, air dry with shop vac and air compressor and then swirl some fuel around in it to minimize flash rust while I await filling it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,038 Posts
I've cleaned out a couple tanks with Metal Rescue, which is about the same thing as Evaporust. I am a cheapskate and bought only 1 gallon, so I had to reposition the tank every couple days to insure every part of the interior was submerged for about 48 hours. I was working on other things, so I didn't mind letting it soak so long. Keep in mind, the warmer the temps, the faster (and better) the stuff works. After rinsing and drying it, I sprayed the inside with WD40 to absorb any moisture and put it aside until I was ready to install it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Well overestimated my capabilities today.
Tank is soaking with nearly two gallons of the rust eliminator.
However, I stalled when starting to replace the right hand controls. Even though the part number is correct, it doesn't have the brake light switch. Would appreciate a suggestion on how to move forward.
Also ran into a little bit of a mess in the headlight enclosure. Not too bad, but I went ahead an disconnected all and pulled the headlight bucket. Bucket is damaged. Right side is missing the nut. A few of the wires were hacked pretty bad.
On a simpler challenge. How does one install the grommets in the side covers.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
The '68 and '69 models had no kill switch and had a front brake light switch built into the front brake cable. Those cables aren't reproduced, and made the brake feel spongy anyway.

What sort of mufflers did you buy?
Back to this - were these built into the actual cable. I guess to put it another way, is the switch on my bike now what was originally on the bike. Since this bike has obviously had some damage on the right - based on the bucket - perhaps the switch was replaced previously.
the other answer, should I move forward with my existing, new part?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
13,089 Posts
Back to this - were these built into the actual cable.
To be completely clear - your bike had a brake light switch integrated into the cable originally, so that when the lever was pulled it compressed the sections of the switch and made the contacts touch and turn the brake light on. That method caused a "springy" feel in the cable and made the front brake feel a bit spongy as described above, so later models - after yours a year or so - used a switch located in the lever perch. To convert to the later, smaller switch, you would need a later version lever perch, whether the original style that also was part of the right handlebar switch (headlight/starter button) or the even later version that was just a lever perch alone.

Original - no longer available new (and probably not from aftermarket either)

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cl350-scrambler-1968-k0-usa_model546/cable-front-brake_45450290670/#.XLXMxzBKi00

Later version - #9 in this fiche (goes into the hole to the right of the cable adjuster hole in the right switch in the picture)

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cl350-scrambler-1972-k4-usa-rh-handle-switch-cable_bigma000149f01_baa8.gif

I guess to put it another way, is the switch on my bike now what was originally on the bike. Since this bike has obviously had some damage on the right - based on the bucket - perhaps the switch was replaced previously.
the other answer, should I move forward with my existing, new part?
No, what is on your bike is the later version. I'm guessing you have to move forward since you probably can't find an original cable anyway, plus you already have the later model switch/perch. If your existing switch doesn't work anymore, they are readily available
 

·
Sensei
Joined
·
27,018 Posts
IF you are restoring the bike you will need to find one of those cables with the switch built in......Good luck with that.....
IF you simply want a functioning front brake switch but no "kill", then you really only need to replace your broken lower housing, swapping in the old switches......
OR, a later unit with "kill" and brake switch can be used......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
I appreciate you making this effort with me on this. If I want to use my new switch/perch, I need this cable if I want a front brake light control?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-OEM-Gray-Front-Brake-Cable-1968-1970-CB350-CL350-45450-290-670-2/192262488667?epid=17002989375&hash=item2cc3bcc25b:g:GswAAOSwOAZZfiwk
If I want to stay with my existing wiring, I will need to find a control or perch with the port for the switch? Now those, I have not been able to find. I am open to spending more money to get it done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
IF you are restoring the bike you will need to find one of those cables with the switch built in......Good luck with that.....
IF you simply want a functioning front brake switch but no "kill", then you really only need to replace your broken lower housing, swapping in the old switches......
OR, a later unit with "kill" and brake switch can be used......
I am not restoring the bike, per se.
I want a functioning Scrambler that looks reasonably original. Something of a restomod.
 

·
Sensei
Joined
·
27,018 Posts
You CAN, but then you'll need the bottom housing half from an early CB (so it's silver) OR you can excise the perch and file/polish the remainder from your existing lower housing...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,038 Posts
I put a regular cable on mine and didn't worry about retaining a front brake light switch. Earlier '60s motorcycles didn't have them, so no big deal. If you're restoring one to concours condition, I suppose you'd need the $200 cable, though...:eek:

FYI, the switch was moved to the housing on the K2 model. K0 and K1 had the switch as part of the cable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
I put a regular cable on mine and didn't worry about retaining a front brake light switch. Earlier '60s motorcycles didn't have them, so no big deal. If you're restoring one to concours condition, I suppose you'd need the $200 cable, though...:eek:

FYI, the switch was moved to the housing on the K2 model. K0 and K1 had the switch as part of the cable.
Actually found a used cable for $19 with shipping on ebay from Bobco Vintage Cycle Parts. I ordered it. I can go original if I want. I am also verifying as to whether or not I am required to have a front brake light at the inspection station. The option to use an add-on perch with brake light switch is also on my mind and filing down the remnants of the broken perch. That's a $40 option.
This evening, I will get back to setting up my carbs. Seeing what I can do about patching and reconnecting the wiring and fixing my headlamp bucket.
I can't tell from my headlight, but is there anything special about it?

scrambler.cable.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Decided to proceed with k0 approach to the right hand controls. However, I made sure to remove the existing unit without damaging it any further. Installed the new unit fairly easily courtesy of silicone lubricant. Seems to work smoothly.
Also replaced the top bushings on the rear shocks. Tried to install the side cover grommets, but no luck and no enthusiasm at that point.
Should get the correct brake cable by Saturday.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Currently planning on my next step to be setting the idle sync on the carbs. Based on a video I watched, it appears to be basically using something thin (in my case a strand of brass wire), resetting the stop to where it is not touching, then adjusting it to where the piece of wire just slips free.
Additionally plan to work on trying to hook up my wires again. The wiring diagram I found, while complete is challenging to read. Working on my light bucket is also on the list.
Have completed one muffler repair - adding baffle material. Hope this works. Really don't want to use the long mufflers I ordered from Common and would like to send them back.
Awaiting some rubber parts.
Would really like to get it started in a day or two. But not sure how much of my wiring I need hooked up to make that happen. Know electric start (yes I can kick it, too), Any suggestions here would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,038 Posts
The wire deal is just to get the idle screws in exactly the same spot as the starting point. Adjust the throttle cables so the arm on each carb begins to rise at exactly the same time when you twist the throttle. It will never idle that way, though - you have to turn each screw in an equal amount from that point to get an acceptable idle before tuning the idle mixture.
 
21 - 40 of 317 Posts
Top