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Discussion Starter #261
Timing adjusted. After working with someone looking over your shoulder it makes more sense. Some of that long distance coaching sets in.
Ed worked with me for a couple of hours today. Being a honda hawk guru, the cl350 was somewhat different. I did not have access to my notes or a manual, so we set the points at .014.
Pulled plugs. Definitely sooted up. Ed media blasted them clean, but said one was showing wear, even though very few miles on them.
But, performance was only somewhat improved. He thinks I need to work the carbs now. I know slide sync needs improvements.
Also on the agenda...install chain guard acquired at a very reasonable price from a forum member, install fork seals and work my no electric start issue.

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Discussion Starter #262
Can't fix stupid.
Working on front left shock to replace the seal. It wasn't seating well enough to get the circlip installed, so I popped it apart. While checking the seating of the collar, I installed the collar without the shaft in place. Now no way to pop the collar out.
Pondering options here.
Photo for affect.


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Discussion Starter #263
Can't fix stupid, two..
Was dissasembling the carbs this evening in prep for cleaning them up, verifying jets, functionality, etc.
Discovered my right carb was missing the needle valve.
Had no luck with my fork issue. Found some on ebay. Probably buy a set there and hope descriptions are accurate.

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A slide hammer with something on the end to catch the underside lip of the seal might do the trick. Just gradually work it around the seal moving it upward little by little.
 

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"Toggle bolt" type of "to the wall" fastener.... Grease the "flaps" of the toggle so it doesn't cut into the aluminum inner diameter....
"toggle wings" open once inserted, catch bottom edge of collar, pull on bolt removes it......(Slide hammer would be great, but leverage will work.......)
 

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Discussion Starter #266
I had thought about the toggle bolt type of approach as well, but the riser tube in the middle of the fork base gets in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #267
a small update. I wasn't completely at fault on the missing needle valve. Seems it had separated from its base. Discovered this last night while reassembling my carbs. My local 305/Hawk guru Ed and taken my carb bodies and bowls and had ran them through a carb cleaner for me. So last night I started assembly and realized the issue with the valve when i could not find what I thought I was looking for in the needle valve. Instead it was in two pieces - base and valve. Checked all of my jet numbers and they match up with the specs for the cl350 - 105 -70 - 35.
Provided my shocks come in this evening and they are indeed serviceable Ebay items, I should be able to get the bike back together:
Replace the clutch shaft seal;
troubleshoot electric start;
install and adjust carbs;
reinstall exhaust.
cl350.carbsettings.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #268 (Edited)
Well made some progress.
Installed the clutch rod seal and it seems to be holding. Also getting better at removing and reinstalling the chain.
Installed the ebay find front forks. They are actually in better shape than the original ones. But will need to pull them again. Realized what the rubber rings PO had used at top of forks were for. They hold the headlight brackets solid.
Installed carbs and exhaust. Running much better. Revs up well under load. There is a little pop, for lack of better word, that seems to be coming from right side.
Gotta pull it all again, though, appears to be a leak around the bowl.
Also noticed this time when I ran the carbs dry, it actually died hard.
Pretty good day. Reference the drawing of the front forks, what does item 26 do?


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That's the original helmet hanger.......Mounts under the fork top bolt and gives a place to strap your helmet when not riding......
 

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Discussion Starter #270
Well bike runs and no leaks. Not even my front forks show to be leaking. Getting pretty good at removing and reinstalling those front forks. Same with my exhaust.
Right now no electric start. There is a weird exhaust or carb noise when I first start the bike but goes away quickly. Also, idling down frequently takes a while. Did verify carbs are returning to idle position normally.
Road around town and on state highway for about 45 minutes today. Definitely have to get used to the high rpm at 55 to 60. Really don't want to go much faster than that.

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Discussion Starter #271 (Edited)
Regarding cam chain adjustment..simplistically if all four followers are loose and left side is on compression stroke that is the time to reset cam chain tensioner?

Also, really will be considering a 34 tooth sprocket for the rear. Just revs out so much at 60. Willing to give up a little bit of acceleration for some lower rpms at 55/60.
Bike shows to have 10K or so on it, Don't know if I would need to replace front sprocket as well.
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Discussion Starter #272
Will be pulling the tank this weekend. Seems the left exhaust tappet cover fell apart during an afternoon ride. The threaded part of the cover was still there. As you can tell from the picture, something else deteriorated from the heavy misting of hot oil. Bike showed no signs of issues. Only discovered it when I pulled over to reconnect the tachometer cable.
A favorite pair of work denims got coated as well.


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^^^yep, that's the pair you put in the garage and don't bother to wash them ever again... just use them when you know you're gonna get dirtier than you'd try to wash out. BTW, the valve cover was previously overtightened, which is what caused that to happen. They don't need to be really tight because they have an o-ring seal
 

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...Also, really will be considering a 34 tooth sprocket for the rear. Just revs out so much at 60. Willing to give up a little bit of acceleration for some lower rpms at 55/60...
Both the CB and the CL had a 16 tooth front sprocket. The CB had a 36 rear and the CL had a 38 rear. I'm running a 17 front and a 36 rear on my CL, which equates to a 2.118 ratio. A 16/34 sprocket combo will result in a 2.125 ratio, which is close to what I have. The bike spins a little less rpms at highway speeds, but takes a little extra clutch slipping to get going from a stop. That said, these engines do rev to make power and there's no getting around that. If you're used to riding Harleys, the rpm on the 350 at any given speed will be double (or more) what you would see on the Harley at the same speed. It takes some getting used to, but 6000 rpm is just barely over halfway to redline on the older 350s like ours, and should be no problem at all for a healthy engine to do all day.
 

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Discussion Starter #276
Both the CB and the CL had a 16 tooth front sprocket. The CB had a 36 rear and the CL had a 38 rear. I'm running a 17 front and a 36 rear on my CL, which equates to a 2.118 ratio. A 16/34 sprocket combo will result in a 2.125 ratio, which is close to what I have. The bike spins a little less rpms at highway speeds, but takes a little extra clutch slipping to get going from a stop. That said, these engines do rev to make power and there's no getting around that. If you're used to riding Harleys, the rpm on the 350 at any given speed will be double (or more) what you would see on the Harley at the same speed. It takes some getting used to, but 6000 rpm is just barely over halfway to redline on the older 350s like ours, and should be no problem at all for a healthy engine to do all day.
You are right - will take some getting used to.
I have yet to get mine past 7K rpm. After working on it this weekend (cleaning up my oily mess), will change the oil and take her out and try some more. Need to put some blue loctite on my tach threads as it keeps getting loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #277
Pulled the tank. Not too much oil to deal with.
Rerouted my clutch cable though the brace on the bars. Saw a picture of a brand new cl 350 and noticed that was the way it was routed in that picture. One of the cables from the right side was as well, but did not know which.
Pulled a plug. My local auto parts store said the ngk bp8es was a direct replacement for the b8es I pulled from the bike. The plug was sooted pretty badly, but it had several miles running with faulty needle valve.
Also picked up another "winker" to replace the one in the picture.
Pondering trying the cut off valves on the crossover line again.


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I just read this entire project thread. You're possessed of a healthy dose of persistence, tenacity and patience. Well done!
 

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The BP8ES is a projected tip plug. It will burn a little cleaner and have the effect of advancing the timing a degree or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #280
I just read this entire project thread. You're possessed of a healthy dose of persistence, tenacity and patience. Well done!
You read this whole thread. The same could be said for you:)
I would rather have a healthy dose of knowledge and skill.

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