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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Before I go too far on this, thought it might be OK to start a log on my project, a 1968 CL350. I have posts in engine and elsewhere regarding the project which officially began the day I acquired it, 04/06/2019. Frame shows to be 68, engine seems to be a 69 based on a website I have used.
The bike was described as ready to ride. It wasn't, but I believe the bike to be in pretty good shape.
Bike would start easily and quickly with kick or electric, but would not develop any RPM past 1500 or so. Idle was erratic.
Currently, it doesn't run. Both carbs are off as well as the tank.
Tank had trash in it clogging the petcock, which was damaged. Barely any flow from fuel lines or tank balancing lines initially.
Tank has been flushed with very hot water until liquid flow was clear and strong. Then, used shop vacuum to suck up as much moisture as possible and air compressor to blow out all openings. Did not see much rust, scaling in tank.
Carbs have been pulled and generally inspected. Have started superficially cleaning them with dremel and brass and steel brushes and cleaned insides of bowl and jets with carb cleaner. They were pretty clean inside, but had form a gasket material at the bowl.
Do not plan to make any adjustments, yet until carbs have been rebuilt and air filters are in place (bike was running without filters).
Initial spending includes:
carb repair kit, factory air boxes, used ebay finds air cleaner covers for each side, tank mounting grommets, mirrors, Common Motor-suggested mufflers (existing were essentially baffle-less), seals for the air filter crossover connection, gas cap seal, inlet manifold rubber gaskets, petcock, mirrors, allen bolt kit (not needed, but I wanted them).
Items wanted - coil (wire to left cylinder is melted but want to verify operation first); honda luggage rack.
Seeking paint code/color alternates for fuel tank (have body guy who will repaint).
Bike is Candy Red/White.
Bike odometer shows 10K.
Other numbers - paid $4300 for bike.
current total expenditures with bike $4900+-.
Bike's purpose: supplemental riding. I ride a Harley Ultra Limited daily and tour some on it. Wanted a smaller bike for running around town, to work and hitting some gravel, dirt roads. Could have done that with a brand new Suzuki VanVan 200 for about the same money and lots and lots of other benefits (warranties, better performance, etc.) but this bike mimics my first real bike, a Honda Hawk 305 Scramber I had in sixth grade and junior high. Plus I think they are cool looking.
I am told the bike has had the rectifier/regulator upgrade performed.
The picture is from the Craigslist listing for the bike.
I have other images in my gallery.

cl350.leftfront.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Me, my Dremel and my carbs had some quality time last night getting them to look a little nicer in anticipation of carb rebuild kits coming in soon. Credit card saw a little action as well as I ordered the upper and lower cushions for the handlebars. I am just under $5K in expenses (including bike cost). Insurance was added this week as well (I don't include those costs). Adding the CL lowered my insurance costs for my Ultra Limited by about $50 for the year. Insurance for the CL was $130 for the year (full coverage).
 

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I am just under $5K in expenses (including bike cost).
don't forget the ground wire from the handlebar mount to the gauge mount for the ground continuity to the bars/switches

let me know when you get to $8500 total... :lol: that's where my 450 build is currently (but then again, I'm done too)(well, as done as a vintage bike ever is)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Sounds like my 1981 Harley FLT project. Bike cost $2500 (from a family friend). Records show I spent about $6K on it (this was my first project ever) and then sold it for $4500. Same time, I bought a 98 883 from the family friend for about $1500. Spent $400 on tires and a battery and fluids change. Road it around for a while and sold it for about $3000.
As to the ground. I noticed multiple places where it appeared a wire lead was wedged under frame components the like.
Pondering as to going ahead and put in the specified battery for the bike (an AGM version of the 12n12) or leave the lead acid 12N9 battery in place until needed.
 

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Just to be clear, the other grounds are likely harness grounds and of course, need to be there but the one I'm referring to will cause your starter and horn buttons to be inop if you leave it off the bottom of the handlebar mount and one of the gauge mount bolts
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well found another issue this evening. Brake lever adjusting control is broke. Previous owner was using zip tie to hold in place. What approach is used to address this issue. I see perches with mirror and brake light control plug at Common. Seems like that would be clunky, but not finding that throttle assembly, yet.
Also, does it matter which plug a coil is connected to? Seems it might be better to have coil and cable on same side as spark plug.
Did find the rectifier upgrade. It was mounted under battery box.


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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The right control, i am showing as 35300-292-670 using consolidate motor spares fiche and I found a NOS on ebay - sound of the cash register closing, again.
right.controls35300-292-670.jpg
 

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You can replace just the bottom half of the throttle-piece housing, ( that one is not original anyway, the original would NOT have contained the built-in provision for the brake-light switch)....
Identical throttle and switch units were employed on various sized bikes of the time, almost any one (Post 1970) that ran a drum brake will work ..... CB/CL 175, CB/CL 350 (except G model), Early CB/CL 450 ....

What you get will depend on how accurate a restore you intend.........

As to the coils, the plug wire MUST connect to whichever side of the engine the point wire from that coil controls.... However, the coils themselves may be mounted to their bracket on the "wrong" physical side, or the bracket itself may have been mounted to the frame backwards... (PO's do strange things).....
 

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The right control, i am showing as 35300-292-670 using consolidate motor spares fiche and I found a NOS on ebay - sound of the cash register closing, again.
IF it is the $75.99 one from Thailand I'm looking at (there are several offerings), it does NOT have the brake-light switch provision (in the pics shown) .... (It is correct for the bike's model year however as it has NO "kill" switch..) Just depends on IF you need/want the brake switch (or Kill) on your bike.....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
IF it is the $75.99 one from Thailand I'm looking at (there are several offerings), it does NOT have the brake-light switch provision (in the pics shown) .... (It is correct for the bike's model year however as it has NO "kill" switch..) Just depends on IF you need/want the brake switch (or Kill) on your bike.....
Mine was not from Thailand, I don't believe. Shows to be US based.
https://www.ebay.com/str/ebvc
is his store.
Thanks for the information about coil/points/wire.
 

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The '68 and '69 models had no kill switch and had a front brake light switch built into the front brake cable. Those cables aren't reproduced, and made the brake feel spongy anyway.

What sort of mufflers did you buy?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The '68 and '69 models had no kill switch and had a front brake light switch built into the front brake cable. Those cables aren't reproduced, and made the brake feel spongy anyway.

What sort of mufflers did you buy?
The recommended ones from Common - https://www.common-motor.com/honda-cl-mufflers

I am wishing, I had checked out this bike prior to buying the one I have - https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/austin-1973-honda-350-scrambler-vintage/6849404885.html
 

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The recommended ones from Common - https://www.common-motor.com/honda-cl-mufflers

I am wishing, I had checked out this bike prior to buying the one I have - https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/d/austin-1973-honda-350-scrambler-vintage/6849404885.html
Yeah, after you buy something expensive, stop looking at other ones for sale. You're bound to eventually find a better and/or cheaper one if you keep looking at them, causing regrets and grief...:D All things being equal, the early ones are worth more than the later ones, so keep that in mind.

As for the mufflers, you will have to abandon the stock mid-pipe brace (if it's still on the bike) and make something of your own to secure the headers and mufflers. In the stock location, the header pipes are too close together and too close to the rear shock to just bolt the mufflers on and go, so the pipes will have to be splayed slightly and the brace won't fit any more.. The bracket(s) you fab need to be strong and support the pipes well, because if they move around too much, the header flange can break off at the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, after you buy something expensive, stop looking at other ones for sale. You're bound to eventually find a better and/or cheaper one if you keep looking at them, causing regrets and grief...:D All things being equal, the early ones are worth more than the later ones, so keep that in mind.

As for the mufflers, you will have to abandon the stock mid-pipe brace (if it's still on the bike) and make something of your own to secure the headers and mufflers. In the stock location, the header pipes are too close together and too close to the rear shock to just bolt the mufflers on and go, so the pipes will have to be splayed slightly and the brace won't fit any more.. The bracket(s) you fab need to be strong and support the pipes well, because if they move around too much, the header flange can break off at the head.
I can send them back. The issue with my shorty pipes, which fit really well, is no baffles.
Their installation instructions suggest: nstallation Tips: Most factory CL exhaust systems are welded together and will require you to cut at least one of the mufflers off of its respective header pipe. How far back each header can be cut depends on the sub-model of your specific bike. For instance, the CL350 K0 headers remain straight further back on the bike than the later models 350s and 360s. Your bike will require its own custom bracket. No two bikes are exactly the same, and where you cut the header pipe makes a significant difference in where your mufflers can mount and how your brackets will fit together. Regardless of which bike you have, it is a good idea to replace the Copper Exhaust Gaskets while you have the system apart.

Since these mufflers are universal parts, they will need somewhat custom brackets to fit your bike. Fortunately each muffler comes with a generic bracket that should allow you to derive a solution with no more than a hack saw and a power drill. See above pictures of one such solution on a Honda CL350 K4. In this example, the top bracket mounts to the rearmost end of the mounting slot in the top muffler. This bracket received a hole to hang the lower bracket, a notch to clear the shock absorber, and a second hole to mount to the shock stud (M10). The lower mount bolted to the lower muffler mounting slot near the center, extending upwards parallel to the shock absorber, ultimately connecting to the upper bracket with a M8 bolt, lock washer, and nut.

The whole process took a drill press, two drill bits, a hacksaw with a multi-purpose blade, a file, and roughly an hour of time. Depending on the diameter of your shock absorbers you may want to trim down the mounting bracket on the lower muffler so they don't interfere.
 

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Looks like they explained it pretty well. Could you buy some decent baffles for the mufflers you have now? I used to have those same shorty mufflers on my '69 (the ones that were on yours when you bought it), and they were LOUD, even with the baffles that came in them. I managed to fit them and use the original mid-pipe bracket, made a custom rear bracket, and they just cleared the rear shock. I finally found an original '68-'69 system and installed it. I never liked the way it ran with the stock setup (maybe the muffler had a dirt dauber nest in it or something ...lol), and I eventually converted it to CB pipes. Good luck with it - be patient and ask a lot of questions.

IMG_3195.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looks like they explained it pretty well. Could you buy some decent baffles for the mufflers you have now? I used to have those same shorty mufflers on my '69 (the ones that were on yours when you bought it), and they were LOUD, even with the baffles that came in them. I managed to fit them and use the original mid-pipe bracket, made a custom rear bracket, and they just cleared the rear shock. I finally found an original '68-'69 system and installed it. I never liked the way it ran with the stock setup (maybe the muffler had a dirt dauber nest in it or something ...lol), and I eventually converted it to CB pipes. Good luck with it - be patient and ask a lot of questions.

View attachment 279278
I am ordering some baffle fabric from Drag specialities to try to make my existing pipes work, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The parts fairy arrived today bringing air filters, mirrors, carb rebuild kits, petcock and mufflers.
Mufflers won't be opened up until I see if repacking the shorties provides reasonable results.
Rebuilt the carbs this evening. Won't be able to do anything more until maybe Sunday. Anxious to see if I can get the bike running next week.
As to carb rebuild, any suggestions on initial setting on idle mixture screw. I started with 1.5 turns.

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Discussion Starter #19
I know a lot of the guys really don't like the aftermarket manuals. But I like a manual that I can prop up on the table and read while working. Opening up my tablet and phone don't get it for me. I enjoy reading manuals while watching baseball games. So is the Clymer manual for our bikes that bad of an option. Doubt that I will find a hard copy of a factory service manual. I have the three series set for my 71 F100 and I always have a service manual for whatever Harley I happen to be driving.
Any suggestions for wire to tie up the baffling material to the baffles.
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/308-264/bassani-fiberglass-muffler-baffle-repack-kit-14-1-2-x-12-1-2-and-14-by-8-1-2
Among items I need to get are the rubber bushings for the rear shocks, the inserts on the side panels (one fell off). I have ordered the upper/lower bushings for the handlebars.
I also would like to take a look at improving the wiring above the engine. Looks cluttered to me.
 

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I think the Clymer manual has a few mistakes in it, but I don't remember the specifics. I believe they are in the timing and/or valve adjustment sections. I printed those sections (and a few more) out from the on-line Honda manual and stuck them in my Clymer for reference.

I'd look a 4into1 or David Silver Spares for those parts you listed.
 
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