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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I just replaced my original headlight with a 9007 halogen. Wow, what a difference! It's as bright as... a car headlight!

Here's how it went...

I first ordered an H4022LR headlight unit from Candlepower.inc. I was disappointed. It is 5 3/4 inch, and dropped right through the headlight bezel. I could have made it work, but wanted something better.

I went to my local H-D/Kawasaki/Suzuki dealer, and after searching in the back for a few minutes, the guy came out with a better headlight unit. It is just a HAIR too big, but otherwise fits very well. Later I might get a dremel and make the bezel just a little bit bigger. I was able to secure it using fuel hose (shade-tree, I know, but I think that's what we have to do with these bikes sometimes, right?) I found that a 9007 halogen bulb fit very well, and after I put a rubber band around the o-ring for a tighter fit, it really stayed put.

The beam isn't perfect, it shoots a round beam on the wall, with only a small difference from high to low. But it still looks great.

The headlight unit says "Koito" on it. There is a Yamaha symbol on the part number sticker. The parts sticker says 235-84310-00. The shipping label says 235-84320-60-00.

Here's some pics:



 

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Shade tree always is the most rewarding. One word of advice, if the bulb and lens are not secure it may shake around some and cause the light to shake around 9more dramatically) and be annoying to you and other drivers.

I hope it works as I have been shopping around for new light ideas.
 

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How many watts is that bulb?
The reason I ask is that these old bikes have a marginal charging system to begin with, and if a fancy high wattage (meaning more amps), bulb is installed, a couple things may happen. Crusty connectors and crusty switch contacts have a higher resistance, which can result in heat being developed. This can melt the insulation and zap the wires, making an even higher resistance situation.
Also, if the fancy bulb is requiring more juice, the battery may not be getting enough to stay charged.
Optimizing the existing situation by thoroughly cleaning all connectors and contacts and applying some dielectric grease is a must. Check the wires from the alternator at where they exit the engine case. Just in front of the front sprocket, behind the clutch cover. Years of nasty oil and heat will break down the insulation.
Do a charging system check with the headlight off and on. Put a voltmeter across the battery and rev the engine to 4k or so, making note of the voltage. Hopefully it stays above 13.5V.
Cleaning the connectors can be a PITA. A home brew soda blaster works good. Some tiny stainless steel brushes are needed. Maybe check a gun shop for tiny brushes. Maybe these brushes, of the correct size for the female round connectors: http://www.torringtonbrushes.com/stainl ... ushes.html
Vintage Connections for new stuff: http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Being totally lit is fun,
NE
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Funny you should ask. I knew the 55w would draw more power, but I had hoped I had that beat since I replaced my original rectifier with a solid state one and converted all marker/turn signal bulbs and the taillight to LED. But no, especially at idle it draws too much power, and the LED turn signals start flashing badly. Meaning they blink more than flash, or go FLASH!FLASH!FLASH! instead of flash-flash-flash.

I made another change to the original fix. The halo effect I got from the long 9007 bulb was not acceptable. The element just sat too far into the reflector dish and made an unusable beam. So, I got out my implements of destruction, and removed the stamped sheet metal ring in the hole in the back of the reflector housing. You can see the tabbed piece easily in the first picture. It had three or four spot welds, but it's made of tin and came out pretty easily with some twisting from a pair of vise grips. Removing that ring made the hole just a little bit bigger, and I was able to seat an H4 bulb into the hole. It's a tight fit, I had to use some thumb pressure to seat it. Perhaps I might use some sealer to "glue" it in later, but I don't think I will have a problem. Anyway, the H4 (P43t base) style bulb is much shorter, and I get a very usable beam out of it, on both low and high (high is still a halo, but still does what "high" is supposed to do). I'm going to order a 45/45w P43t base bulb here in a few minutes, which should reduce my draw by 20%. That will be nice, since I would really like to put an original filament brake light bulb back in it. Right now my license plate doesn't get light at all, and that could attract too much attention.

I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.

71hondacbtwin
 

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It is hard to replace the headlight of the bike if you are not sure of the quality of the light and the proper installation of it. I am planning to change mine again with LED light bulb. They said it consumes less energy than other bulb I have used.
 

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I just ordered an HID conversion kit from sharphid.com. Should be arriving monday. It claims to draw less power, except for on start-up, which I expect shouldn't be an issue, since the 71 CB350 has a headlight on/off switch (meaning I can turn it on once the bike is running and charging to lessen the draw at startup).

If it's really an issue I'll either go back to the sealed beam, or order the new alternator upgrade, either way I'll post results here also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think you only get one beam with the HID kits... Is that so?

By the way, I received my 45W H4 bulb Wednesday, and I didn't get the results I wanted. Switching back and forth between the higher wattage H4 (I think it was 55w) and the 45w, and gained .05 volts. Not .5, but .05! Crud, I had higher hopes. Oh well.
 

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sharphid sells a bulb that will handle both hi/low, you just have to select it when you checkout. I bought a 7" round light that accepts an (h4?) sized bulb, and picked the appropriate HID "bulb" to fit the light. Hopefully it's all simple to use, I'll find out Monday.
 

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As I understand it you are correct about HID using less current, as it works, (again as I understand it) by an inverter (Balast unit) creating high voltage at a low current draw. HID means High Intensity Discharge see the article in Wikipedia you will need to scroll down to it, but the explanation is good.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp
Downside finding the correct bulb to suit the headlamp is not very easy.
 

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Update:

Kit arrived from sharphid on time and as-promised. There were no instructions in the box, but there have wiring diagrams online, and I even emailed to ask a silly question and received a response from John in under 10 minutes.

I had the kit test-assembled and wired to the bike in about 5 minutes, and it works great.

Unfortunately, I ordered the wrong size headlamp. (my headlamp bucket is 7" diameter... but the lamp itself is significantly smaller than that. oops.)
So, the delay in install is completely my fault, but at least I know all the electrical bits work perfectly, and the light is amazing!

Their customer service is certainly above par at this point as well, since I now have >3 human responses from someone in less than a day.

I would recommend this upgrade/conversion to anyone who is sick of the weak beams on their old bike. SO EASY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Slickware,

Does your bulb include the ballast as part of the bulb, or is it a separate unit?

Can we get a pic of the bulb?

I'm confused, you say your CB350 headlight bucket is 7", but I'm pretty sure the original bucket is smaller than that. Around 6.5" I think. Which is why you can't just buy a standard 7" 1970's standard automotive sealed beam and drop it in; it's too big.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As promised, here are pics of my beams using the Koito headlight lens and the H4 bulb. The low beam is on top, the high on bottom.




 

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Wow. My headlight puts out the same field the size of an old D battery flashlight. The high beam is crazy!
 

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Wiring Harness:


Bulb, attached to what I believe is the ballast:


[edit]
The bulb is detachable from the ballast via 2 or 3 wire clips. There is enough length to run the ballast unit to somewhere up under you gauge cluster, but probably not much farther than that.
Also, the top picture is a little confusing - the wiring harness comes with TWO bulb/ballast "mount" points - it's designed to be multifunction in case you were purchasing this kit for a car and/or wanted/needed to hook up 2 HID bulbs. I've been informed that I can simply cut off one end of the harness since I don't need it. This is the end on the left side of the photo that I've just wrapped out of the way temporarily with elec. tape.


As for the 7" - my headlight BUCKET is 7" in diameter, exactly.
What I failed to measure was the inside diameter of the chrome retaining ring that fits around the outside of the bucket, and houses the lamp-lens-glass. The lens/glass is something like 5&3/4 or 6&1/4 depending on how I bend my tape measure. I just assumed stupidly that a 7" lamp would fit inside a 7" bucket, since I had the OEM lamp out when I did my measuring.

Regardless, when the new lamp arrives I'll be good to go. This particular unit has both low and hi beams in one bulb, so I don't have to keep the stock light at all.
 

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nathalie said:
It is hard to replace the headlight of the bike if you are not sure of the quality of the light and the proper installation of it. I am planning to change mine again with LED light bulb. They said it consumes less energy than other bulb I have used.
what bulb are you looking at? I am planning to do a home made LED board to fit in the headlight housing. I will use some high powered 12v white LED's and then some 12v yellow LED's for the turn signals. So something similar to the Clear Alternatives brand tail lights with integrated turn signals.
 

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I believe it's 35/35.....filaments just "aimed" differently.....
 

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Will led work with the flasher relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
LEDs with flasher relay: No, they won't work with the stock flasher, they just stay lit. You have to get a flasher made for LEDs. I think it was $12, I ordered it with the LED bulbs.
 
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