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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey All,

Howdy from San Antonio, Texas! I'm actually in Helotes which is a suburb on the northwest side of SA.

Picked up a CB360T in good-but-neglected shape. It cam with an original key, complete tool kit, and an aftermarket owners manual. Runs on one cylinder for the most part; the right cylinder kicks in intermittently at higher revs. No leaks except for the typical gummy oily stuff from old/worn gaskets. Brakes, shocks, battery, and tires are good.

I've started working on it with the help of all the info and advice I've found here and at Common Motor Collective.

So far I have:

Changed oil
Cleaned oil filter/rotor & oil screen
Cleaned air filters
Changed fork oil
Cleaned/lubed clutch cable
Adjusted clutch
Cleaned petcock fuel filter
Adjusted valve clearance
Reset cam chain tensioner
Repaired broken wire to rear turn signal
Straightened support/mount for rear signal
Spent 4-5 hours trying to get the points right, couldn't, and figured even if I did get it, I'd have to return to it periodically to adjust. So I just bought a Pamco unit and installed that.
New spark plugs & caps to go with the Pamco (the BR8EIX & caps I found out about in the forum)

I've ordered carb rebuild kits and a regulator/rectifier. Hopefully after the carb rebuild, I'll be able to ride for a while before I get involved in a large-scale teardown.

I'm trying to keep the current look with the original paint and patina. But the right side air-cleaner cover was pretty badly damaged. It's been glued together and looks ok from 10 feet but I'd like to find a proper replacement in good shape with original blue paint. I've checked Ebay but didn't see anything at the moment. If anybody here has a source, I'd be grateful.

Anyway, cheers!
 

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Welcome to the forum! You’ve got a looker there - all I’ve ever wanted in life is a blue vehicle, but I seem doomed to red. Red truck, red bike...forever.

Anyway, those side covers are crazy tough to find - it might be a game of carefully checking eBay regularly. They show up occasionally on here though! I actually recall some selling a couple weeks ago, so stick around. If you haven’t already, don’t throw away your points/advancer! My PAMCO kicked the bucket on me and I had to source replacement stuff for my entire ignition.

For your right cylinder, have you checked the compression on it? Not a bad place to start, just to ensure that you don’t do all the other work and then later find out you have to rebuild the top end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I bag all the parts I take off just to preserve the possibility of going back. And the blue is what sold me on this bike. There were actually 2 of them but this one looked better and was more complete. And less than 10,000 miles.

I just received the compression tester today. Ordered it along with some other goodies: vacuum gauge, JIS screwdrivers, big ol' impact bits for the manual impact driver.
Didn't get a chance to try it though. Had to do Christmas lights.

Cheers
 

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I agree with spirograph, it seems like Pamco is still troubleshooting the new CB360 e-ignition system as there have been people complaining about failed units. I personally am going back to points myself on my project (I used to run a hybrid system). I agree, check eBay and the Parts for Sale page on this forum regularly, this stuff does come up, although these sidecovers in good condition tend to be rather rare and fetch a pretty penny.

A full carburetor rebuild would be a great place to start with addressing the issue with running mostly on one cylinder. Like you said, you have been working through CMC's videos, and their 3 part CB360 carburetor rebuild video series is excellent. The part about the float height I am taking with a grain of salt, because I have been hearing all sorts of recommendations. I imagine it will be a matter of "guess and check". In regards to the carburetor rebuild kit, do you have the pentagonal "shaped" gaskets included in lieu of the circular ones? I purchased shaped gaskets from 4into1, and they are 100x easier to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For the float height, I've seen anywhere from 16 to 21 recommended, so yeah, it'll be multiple iterations of guess and check. And I watched those exact videos last night! I didn't order the pentagon gaskets because I didn't even know it was a choice to be made when I ordered the kits from CMC. Only found out about them later while watching the videos. So I'll give the square ones a try along with some Gascacinch.

Cheers
 

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Welcome and nice bike! You need good compression, spark at the right time and fuel from carbs. Make sure your carbs are clean, clean and clean again. I got mine cleaned by a local shop and they did a crapy job. They were so gummed up, I had to put them in the ultrasonic cleaner for 4 hours, used a small wire and compressed air to clean all the jets and passages. Keep us posted.
 

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I didn't order the pentagon gaskets because I didn't even know it was a choice to be made when I ordered the kits from CMC.
Just a quick heads up: While I love CMC's instructional videos on youtube and their very organized range of products by bike and category, they don't have everything that is available, and some of their stuff is SERIOUSLY overpriced. When looking to buy parts, I would open up a browser tab with other vendors like Dime City Cycles, Sirius Consolidated Inc, and 4into1 to compare prices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks for the leads! I do need to look around. I've added all of those to my bookmarks.

On the subject of CMC. How necessary is a tool like the carburetor sync tool? The extended combo screwdriver/nut driver. CMC is out of stock and I didn't have any luck so far finding an alternative. I'll have the carbs off for the rebuild so is the bench sync method close enough?

Thanks

EDIT: And just like that, found it! On the 4into1 site.
http://4into1.com/motion-pro-carburetor-adjustment-tool/

Thanks guys!
 

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I haven't really used it yet, as I have yet to install the carbs on the motor, but I would think it is not required, but makes life easy. I would think that a super long flathead screwdriver + crescent/box wrench would do the trick. When member flywin stopped by my house for a chat, he said he found out who supplies CMC with this tool and ordered one cheaper from the manufacturer direct. I don't think he mentioned exactly who that was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The manufacturer looks to be Motion-Pro. If it's not the exact one, it's REALLY close.
On 4into1, it's ~$16. Versus CMC at $25 (and out of stock).
Also just looked on Amazon. Found it there for ~$16 too.

Another 2 questions,

I checked the shop manual but couldn't really see the answer:
1) How many drain tubes are there per carb? Looks like one but just want to be sure.
2) What's the recommended material to use when replacing the fuel lines & drain tubes?


Thanks
 

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1. 1 drain tube per carb
2. Uh...not sure, I would just use a 3.5mm fuel rated hose for the drain tubes and at 5mm fuel rated hose for the fuel supply lines.
 

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That tool will come in handy as getting to the lock nut on that adjustment screw is a PITA. Small pickles for sure but do google searches(amazon) on most of the stuff CMC has, you can find a lot of the stuff considerably cheaper.

360s need to have a good sync, bench syncs will get the bike "running."
 

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+1 on the sync tool - doing a vacuum sync is a PITA even with the tool, I can’t imagine my blood pressure without it. There really ought to be a sticky where we can all argue about what’s safe to buy on fleabay versus the known shops :D for my part, I’ve been good with fuel lines and hoses, but I had a carb boot snafu that has me sticking to the majors even if it’s a bit more pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, finally got back to work on this after letting it sit for a while. To give away the ending, I got it running and have put about 60 miles on it in the last few days. Seems to run pretty strong but I know there's more juice in there because I'm still fighting the junk in the gas tank which is causing hesitation and poor fuel flow. It also means I have to keep the in-line fuel filters in place still which also restricts fuel flow.

So the full story is this:

I pulled the carbs at least 3 times to clean gas-tank gunk out of them. The float valve kept getting stuck and fuel would just pour out through the drain tube. Finally had to confront the fact that the tank needed to be cleaned, including doing something about the TERRIBLE attempt the PO took at sealing the tank. I talked to a local shop about the issue I was having and he mentioned using citric acid to clean the tank; said I could get the powder/crystals on Amazon. He said he soaks the entire tank in it and that it won't harm the paint.


After as much research as I could stand, I decided to try it. Ordered a 5-pound bag and received it a couple of days later. I did a muriatic acid wash first with 50/50 water/acid. I let that soak for an hour or so and drained that back into some containers for disposal. Then I added 2 gallons of water and 6-8 tablespoons of citric acid and 5 large nuts to agitate around inside. I covered the fuel-filler hole with a small piece of plastic and stuffed a towel into the hole to provide a semi-tight seal. I held the tank and shook it back n forth as much as I could. I'd let it sit for a few minutes and shake some more.

In all, I did this for about 2 hours and at least 8 gallons of citric acid solution. Each time I drained the tank into a plastic container and would examine the water for residue. I kept going until I thought it was good enough, not perfect but little enough gunk where the filters (tank, petcock, and in-line) would handle it. In between rounds I would pick away at the plastic tank slime. I ended up removing a bunch of it. I had to get a set of long-reach, narrow-opening pliers to get way down in there. I ended up getting a lot of it. I rinsed the tank and blew it out with compressed air and then let it sit for a little while to get the moisture out. To finish it I added some Marvel Mystery Oil and coated the inside as well as I could to stop the flash rust.

I had also found that the petcock I had wasn't the right one so I replaced it with one from CMC. I also installed 2 new ignition coils.

While I was working on the tank and waiting for the acid to do it's work, I took of the left & right case covers and stripped & repainted them. I went with the VHT primer and aluminum-colored paint after reading recommendations here. They came out ok I think but the color is a little too blue for me; doesn't bother me enough to do again but I'll try one of the other brands if the occasion arises. I put the cases back together with new gaskets and mounted the tank.

Another trick I learned but I can't remember if I saw it here was cleaning chrome with water and aluminum foil. Fellas, this is miraculous! My mufflers, rims, pipes, turn-signal housings, rear springs, and several other pieces were in bad (not terrible) shape. I've never dealt with rust on chrome before but I thought the damage was done and that I'd have to replace these pieces. I sprayed some water from a little misting bottle and started rubbing with a small wadded-up piece of regular aluminum foil and the results were instantaneous. The mufflers look brand new. The rims sparkle! I couldn't believe how easy and CHEAP it was! I usually hate working on paint and finish but this was working so well, I went at it for a couple of hours.

Anyway, I got the bike running. It starts right up and doesn't need the choke after 4-5 seconds. It take a full minute to warm up but it's easy riding after that. The only hassle is that there's still gunk in the tank and it's clogging up the filters. After 20-30 minutes of riding, the fuel flow slows enough that the motor really hesitates. I've cleaned the tank & petcock filters once again but the problem is still there. I'll do a few more rounds on the tank this weekend, maybe less fluid this time and more nuts/bolts to knock more of that stuff loose.
 

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