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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
JP's Broom (CL350) Resto-Mod

Hey everyone, I've been lurking on this site since last summer--before I got my bike. This is my project thread.
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Long story short I got played on this bike. It was basically in "barn find" condition, but I didn't know it until after I started to ride it home...
I rode it 50 miles home from suburbs to Chicago and immediately noticed that it was not in the best condition. The PO did say that it had been sitting for about 4 months--I think it was a bit longer than that. It struggled to reach 45mph (bad carbs and timing). The both wheels wobbled; Out of true. Handlebars were bent and one of the front fender mounts on left side was broken, so it was missing the screw. Right hand side / upper muffler was covered in JBweld and rattling loose.
This is the bike the day I got it
IMG_2923.jpg
So, I overhauled the carbs about a week after getting the bike, adjusted timing (Thank you Common Motor Collective for the how-to vid), and I removed the JB weld from the muffler and wrapped it with ceramic muffler cast. I then started browsing this site for clues as to what else I should be replacing repairing.

Since then I have replaced the Plugs and boots, Trued my wheels, Replaced the air filters with NOS, Overhauled the Triple Tree,
Installed the Radioshack Rectifier,
I replaced the entire front fork springs/damper/sleve
Front Fork Damper.jpg
Pulled the engine and opened the cylinders; Will be either honing or Boring to .50 size Pistons/rings
IMG_6112.JPG
Lapped the Valves because they were caked with soot (leaky head gasket).
IMG_6124.JPG
, Replaced the Swing Arm bushings with Bronze ones
IMG_6159.JPG
, New Euro bars n Grips
IMG_6165.JPG
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What I plan to do next is get the cylinders to the shop and have them tell me if I can get away with honing or if I should bore. Install new points, get new battery, new mufflers.
Also, waiting on the replacement Cam chain tensioner roller set
Chain tensioner roller set.jpg
 

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Excellent JP!!! I think you'll be able to make that into a great little Scrambler. I too went the route of honing first then mic-ing the pistons/jugs to see if I need to bore over or just size up the rings. I was able to use my .25 over pistons and use 2-over rings to get my engine together.
 
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Yes that's true if you have it bored over. It turns out on my bike that the jugs were straight and didn't need any work other than honing. When the machinist used the mic on the piston and jugs they were within tolerance and he told me I needed the 2 over rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Just ordered the .5 Over size piston kit from Scrambler Cycle. Now I wait for the pistons to arrive and I can bring the cylinders and pistons to the nearest shop that can bore and hone for me...
Here's a pic of the bike while it was running but before I realized that the engine needed to be pulled (amongst other things). I realize I should not have been riding without the front fender...
IMG_5936.JPG
 

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Riding without a front fender isn't dangerous. Your front end may be a bit less rigid, but unless you're really riding hard, you won't notice it that much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Riding without a front fender isn't dangerous. Your front end may be a bit less rigid, but unless you're really riding hard, you won't notice it that much.
Well, I was just saving face. However, I did notice a difference after I re-installed the front fender. Much more solid feel.
 

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One thing to check is the regulator. Put a volt meter on it while riding if you can do it safely will tell you a lot. My regulators have all been bad and a reg/rect unit is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
One thing to check is the regulator. Put a volt meter on it while riding if you can do it safely will tell you a lot. My regulators have all been bad and a reg/rect unit is the way to go.
I've done the Radio Shack hack--Is this the same thing?

----edit:
I figured it out. Will be replacing both the Regulator and the Rectifier for the Sparcksmoto single unit.
 

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Yes that's true if you have it bored over. It turns out on my bike that the jugs were straight and didn't need any work other than honing. When the machinist used the mic on the piston and jugs they were within tolerance and he told me I needed the 2 over rings.
while not absolutely terrible it is NOT a good idea to install rings of a different size like this

a good engine builder will tell you the same. It makes you compress the ringes more than they were intended for which leads to increased wear and more filing to get proper ring end gap
 
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I did have to file the ring ends just a bit - 10 strokes or so to get the right gap. Compression is good so it works for now. Hope I don't have any problems with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
All's quiet on the midwestern front... I can't, for the life of me, find a motorcycle shop that does bore and honing in Chicago. That is just about all I need done so that I can reassemble the engine to move forward. SMH

Question: Will an auto repair shop do Bore and Honing if I bring my cylinder head to them? I really would prefer to find some place local.

Also, I am going .5mm up with the cylinders. Can I get away with doing this myself with a honing tool or is .5 too large for that to work?
 

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Try and find a high performance speed shop that builds engines. Or you can try and find a small engine repair place that may be able to help you.

And don't feel bad - I had my jugs at a speed shop for 5 months before I picked them up and took them somewhere else. The new place had them done in a week. I was completely stalled on my engine build until that part was machined. Once it was done I was able to finish the engine and move on to other items. A suggestion is to get your wiring harness, rims/tires, frame and lighting sorted while you are waiting... Wish I had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
WUPF!
I went through a number of machinists, moto repair, high performance shops, etc in the past 5 days. Finally came across MCC in Villa Park Illinois. (another member had mentioned them for a bore and hone job in the midwest...
well i dropped off the jugs and new pistons to be bored out.

at the same time I received the OIL seal kit, which i went to town on... I replaced the obvious oil seals.

ill keep posting as time allows for progress.
 

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JP I live in near Schaumburg so I would love to see pictures and know how your experience is at MCC.
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
JP I live in near Schaumburg so I would love to see pictures and know how your experience is at MCC.
Thanks!
I will upload more pix once I get the cylinders back.
As for the service/experience at MCC, it was on point thus far. My first interaction with them was through email. The person who responded is Bob "Speedy" Pirog he is the person I asked to speak with the day I went to MCC. I think I brought a bit of nostalgia to him because Bob put on a huge grin when I told him I was rebuilding a '73 CL350. He then said he used to have a 73 CL360. Service area is organized and clean. I was in and out of there in 15mins. I feel like I found the right place for the job I needed done.
Plus there's plenty of shiny bikes to oogle at...Norton Commando 961 Cafe :shock:

Anyway, here's the contact info
Bob "Speedy" Pirog
Service Manager
MCC Motor Cycle Center
443 E. St. Charles Rd.
Villa Park, IL. 60181
630.782.2015
[email protected]
 

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Awesome thanks for the details!

I've run into quite a few bike shops that don't want to mess with such old stuff. "Takes too much time" is the response I've gotten. I'm like "who are YOU telling!"


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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Back On track

I got the bored cylinders and new pistons/rings installed. I had a laborious Friday...
IMG_6264.jpg

I went full McGruber with this DIY Piston Ring Compressor thing. I did not have the money or the time to run to autozone to find the wrong piston ring compressor tool. So I made two from what i had laying around in the garage. It worked!
IMG_6265.jpg
Once I got to the top, made sure that everything was in line. Horizontal line on cam sprocket, lined up with the time advance pin at 12 O'clock, which lined up with the LT mark on the stator. Then I proceeded to adjust the valves.
IMG_6274 copy.jpg
I also replaced the oil seals on the drive shaft, the Gear shifter shaft, and the clutch shaft. I was able to do all three without removing the right side case cover. Not sure if you need to pull the right side case cover to install the new oil seals...I just used a flat head and pried them out. Being careful not to damage anything.
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I Finished putting the engine together pretty quickly that I had time to mount the engine into the frame.
IMG_6283.jpg

Mounting the engine went suspiciously smooth. I did this by myself with the help of a car jack and a piece of wood between the engine and jack. Everything fit nicely.

I then kicked the engine a few times as that was recommended by many other posters on here and on youtube. I guess it helps the new rings seat nicely on the honed walls. While I was at it, I decided to check the compression and I was getting 145psi on both cylinders. I think those numbers will go up once I can get the engine at normal operating temp.
 
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