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Don’t put your back out James!
The 250 superdream engine I had weighed a damn site more than the CB/CD 175’s

It was quite a mawl to get it up into the boot of my car and back out again

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
Don’t put your back out James!
The 250 superdream engine I had weighed a damn site more than the CB/CD 175’s

It was quite a mawl to get it up into the boot of my car and back out again
So what you are saying then Alex, is that my engine, being the 400 Superdream, has got bigger pistons therefore more weight therefore more chance of putting my already compromised back out?

I think I need to get my mate Chris round for a spot of engine mauling then! Two bolts and it's on the floor. Ideally I would put my new mini bike lift under the engine but at the moment it's holding the CD up so I need to improvise!

Actually, just looking at the two engines the CB is much larger so I can imagine having a struggle with it!
 

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Age catches up with us.

Some 35 or more years ago, I bought a new engine for my car, a 1275 MG Metro unit, brand new and unused. I had to collect it from the vendors house. When I got there, cash in hand, he was out, leaving his wife to handle the transaction.

So I had to put the engine into the back of my estate car by myself. Adrenalin must have come into play, because I just lifted the engine ( no transmission ) off a pallet and into my car. Vendors wife remarked to my wife 'He's stronger than he looks !', as I'm only a fairly small chap.

An A series engine is a solid lump of cast iron. The engine that I replaced it with ( using a crane from the hire centre ) still sits under a pile of junk in my garage, no way that I can move it now, guess that is where it will remain.

Edit. Just looked at this website. Classic Mini Engine Weights

I reckon it must have weighed 65 - 70 kg, so perhaps I'm not Britains Strongest Man after all ....
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Too cold to go outside and finish stripping the bike so I bought in these. This is the picture before washing in warm soapy water.

dirty.JPG


This one is after the washing. Not too much difference really, the plastic has been faded by the sun. I removed the Honda logo and put it into a pot of brake fluid to remove the paint. When I did this on my CD200 badges it turned out the whole badge was chrome painted and I'm hoping for the same here as it will be easy to paint in a black background. We'll see.

cleaned.JPG


The last picture is after drying the parts and wiping a rag around them soaked in a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and paint thinner. The plastic soaks up the oil and it restores the shine.


oiled.JPG


Doesn't look too bad. How long it'll last I don't know but if it fades too quickly I can always de-grease it and spray it with black paint! :rolleyes:

Clocks and bracket next. Dirt has got under the glass and the connector bar needs de-rusting. That's when I can find them . . . . . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #66
That looks great James, I will try that on Olive's clocks
Cheers Irene. Some people advocate mixing boiled linseed oil with acetone rather than paint thinner and there was a percentage of acetone in my cheap Aldi paint thinner so I don't know if this was why it worked so well or not. I think the paint thinner is there just to make it dry faster because I tested just linseed oil on my rear mudguard and that worked to.

The linseed oil does pen and ink a bit though . . . . :D
 

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A couple of years ago, I used that mixture on a lawnmower fuel tank and it held up good. I used the 60/40 mixture though. I applied it about three times over a week and it got better after each one.
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
Took the front wheel off and removed the disc bolts. Neither disk will separate from the wheel though.

bolts out disks stuck.JPG


Next off came the forks. They're not held in the top clamps by a bolt, just the top nut screwing down on the fork leg, grabbing the top yoke as it does so. Interesting . . . . .

forks.JPG bottom top yokes.jpg


Fork sliders are very pitted, I'm hoping to remove the rust and Araldite the pits because 'She Who Must Be Obeyed' has a very tight grip on the purse strings.

nasty pitting.jpg


Don't know whether to polish the fork legs or paint them black. . . .

should be black.jpg


The chromed indicator supports are beyond help I think.

beyond redemption maybe.jpg


I'll try to remove the rust and paint them black, or the colour of the tank whatever that will be but it looks a bit beyond hope to me.


Handlebar bracket just needs stripping and painting. Clever way of fitting a cable tidy though . . . . . .

cable tidy on handle mount.jpg handlebar brkt.jpg


Side stand and centre stand are now removed. Centre stand came off really easily I was quite surprised.

sidestand.jpg centre stand and pin.JPG

All that's left now is two rear engine bolts to undo and I can take the frame from around the engine. Trouble is, I forgot to drain the engine oil before I started so that's another thing that's going to be more awkward than it should be!

Bike just before I took the centre stand off.

forlorn2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #70
There's a paper gasket behind each rotor that is now acting like glue holding them on.
Engine oil can be drained by removing the right case cover
Thanks Jim I'll squirt something suitably wet at the disc centre in the hope it will break it's hold!

I thought of cracking the right cover too but I think the oil will go absolutely everywhere. Although I do have a large plastic tray to put the engine in so cheers Jim! When the engine is free of its frame it's going into a big tray to leak oil! :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
A couple of years ago, I used that mixture on a lawnmower fuel tank and it held up good. I used the 60/40 mixture though. I applied it about three times over a week and it got better after each one.
Just took your advice Dan and given my instrument surround another dose of linseed oil/paint thinner. Obviously while it's still wet it shines beautifully so I'm going to put several more coats into the plastic over several days until it's absorbed as much as it can.

I hope the linseed pong disappears eventually though. Can't go around riding a bike that smells like a glaziers van. :rolleyes:
 

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Pong . . . and so I learn yet another new Brit/Aussie word. Supposedly it dates to early 20th century, of unknown origin. Thanks, James. I'm sure to find a use for this. My wife loves it when I talk British around her. One of her favorite words is process with the long O vowel sound. Well, maybe she doesn't exactly love it. It drives her crazy. Is that about the same thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Pong . . . and so I learn yet another new Brit/Aussie word. Supposedly it dates to early 20th century, of unknown origin.
I usually use it after I leave the bathroom and my Mrs tries to follow me in. "Don't go in there, darling, there's a right pong!" ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Freed the frame from the engine today. It's rusty but all the stress points are sound. Rust and debris has got up inside the frame but nothing that can't be dealt with.

frame freed off.JPG main spine.JPG inside spine.jpg

rusty.jpg

Got the brake rotors off as well!

discs off.JPG

Rear wheel has a circlip holding the rear drive sprocket cover in place. I haven't got any circlip pliers big enough to get it off!

seal off big circlip.jpg

And finally a big pile of plastic parts to be washed in the kitchen sink. Rear mudguard (part of) air box etc.

pile of washing.jpg

I was going to strip the forks. One of the lower allen bolts loosened off nicely but the other has been rounded off by a previous owner so I have to think on a method of getting it out.

Any ideas anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Most plastic parts have been washed in the kitchen sink and are now drying off in the box room. (Mrs rarely goes in there so I'm pretty safe).

Tomorrow sometime I will be giving them all the linseed oil/paint thinner treatment as they are all faded in places. Might as well do the job properly!

As plastic ages it leaches out its oils, not helped by the Suns UV rays and goes faded and brittle. I've never seen so much plastic on a bike before, the airbox itself is huge so if the linseed treatment can replace this lost oil it must be good for the bike!

Plus it makes it shine nicely! :rolleyes:
 

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Pong . . . and so I learn yet another new Brit/Aussie word. Supposedly it dates to early 20th century, of unknown origin. Thanks, James. I'm sure to find a use for this. My wife loves it when I talk British around her. One of her favorite words is process with the long O vowel sound. Well, maybe she doesn't exactly love it. It drives her crazy. Is that about the same thing?
My work colleagues in Joliet use to tease me when I said ‘photo’ they would mock phoooowtoooow, after a while I reverted to pic or picture


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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
The engine looks a bit forlorn on the garage floor

001.jpg 002.jpg

This thing is giving me some grief!

003.jpg

I've drilled the heads off the bolts but it still isn't moving. Apparently the force required to remove the fluid container, which is only held now by a rubber grommet, is such that it would get damaged in the process. So I'm putting it to one side for now.

This is getting the wash and linseed treatment next

004.jpg

It's faded in places so the linseed will get the colour back. The plastic I have already done looks great but it was a bit tacky to the touch so I wiped it all down with paint thinner only and it removed the tackiness but left the shine intact. Result!
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
Well, finally I got the master cylinder reservoir off by levering each side with two small screwdrivers. Not too much damage to it either, nothing that a file can't cure :rolleyes: But the sealing grommet is still well stuck in its recess.

I've also managed to extract the circlip that holds the piston in too, only because it was that rusty it snapped in half! The only thing left inside now is the spring and a rubber disk that seems too big to come out? Do I grab hold of it with tweezers and yank it out? I think it SHOULD fit over the end of the piston and with me mauling the piston out (it was stuck solid!) it got left behind. Once the rubber is out the spring behind it will follow.

Obviously it does come out but not without damage, which doesn't matter but I'm thinking what happens when I replace it? Don't want to damage the new one putting it in. Or is it fitted over the end of the piston before assembly?

Anyone have any knowledge of this it's very puzzling?!

The front brake switch is still attached, the screw is rusted solid and my first attempt at removal rounded it off. Where's me drill? ;)

UPDATE Front brake switch is now safely bagged up after having drilled the head off the screw that was holding it. Spring and rubber have also been removed. The body is getting stripped of paint and cleaned up before getting a seal kit. Then when that's done it gets a spray job!
 
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