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Discussion Starter #601 (Edited)
What are you going to clean the bolts with James, you could try the Harpic Power Plus that I use to clean the petrol/fuel tanks out with.
I prefer a wire brush in a drill to clean the crud and rust out then treat them with phospheric acid and water mix (Metal Prep in the POR15 world but one HELL of a lot cheaper!) to stabilise any remaining rust then swill with water, dry and coat with oil. Same treatment to stabilise rust in the tank, two pints and swill it around over 30 minutes then drain and dry with a hot air gun. It's re-usable as well. Then use the POR15 coating which is excellent. My CD200 has been done for a good two years and it's rust-free and the coating is still in one piece. I cleaned the loose rust out with nuts and bolts, water and a good shake!
This time I'm lazy with the bolts though. I've bought four new fine thread M10 bolts!
 
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Vintage Connections (HT member Sonreir) has soft PVC tubing you can use for wiring, very nice... but they ship from the US, so that might make it too expensive an option for you
 

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Discussion Starter #603 (Edited)
Vintage Connections (HT member Sonreir) has soft PVC tubing you can use for wiring, very nice... but they ship from the US, so that might make it too expensive an option for you
Thanks anyway Tom. I Googled black soft PVC tubing and got this:-


Result!
Type for what you want and Google comes up with all sorts of rubbish. Type PVC tubing and I thought I'd get brake bleeding accessories but no, I got the above!
 

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Thanks anyway Tom. I Googled black soft PVC tubing and got this:-


Result!
Type for what you want and Google comes up with all sorts of rubbish. Type PVC tubing and I thought I'd get brake bleeding accessories but no, I got the above!
Personally I love the look of this stuff, Tesa tape, its matte and lasts long. So you can't really see it, blends in very well.
Tesa Tape
 

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Check with Matt at Sparck moto/Vintage Connections for the best "sheathing" method and supplies......
Matt's member name here is Sonreir........
 

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Discussion Starter #606
Thanks for the feedback guys, I'll look into it.
Back to the headlamp 'ears' I bought. They look awful on the bike! I'm considering now to use the old ones, first cutting off the bits that hold the indicators on then filing smooth and painting. I'm using the indicators from the original Dream, the Hawk I think it was in the States that double up as the headlamp mounts, though I bought them marked up as Suzuki indicators they are really solidly built, unlike some Chinese junk I bought in the past which fell apart when I looked at them and promptly went straight in the bin! The rubbers, which I thought had perished, were just covered in what seems to be solidified grease. I washed this off and they don't seem too bad. They are now sitting in a jar of Oil of wintergreen and isopropyl alchohol mix to soften up a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #607
Headlamp support rubbers after their dip in an Oil of Wintergreen bath
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They have regained their flexibility and smell absolutely marvelous!
The support brackets with the offending indicator mounts
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Paint is awful! I don't know what was the matter with me that day but the half-dozen or so sundry bracketry I painted are all as bad, drips, runs and sags! As the paint is also damaged it's getting rubbed down and re-painted and the mounting points are being cut off as I'm using the headlamp mounting holes to mount the indicators as well.
Indicators of choice:-
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The front indicators have longer stalks than the rear ones and all four are really solid. Next job, heart in mouth, is to cut those lugs off the bottom of the headlamp mount without damaging anything else!
EDIT: The pink background with flowers is SWMBO's ironing board. Don't tell!
 
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Wipe the mount rubbers with silicone grease before installation, it'll keep them alive for years to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #609
Wipe the mount rubbers with silicone grease before installation, it'll keep them alive for years to come.
I'll do that Jim, thanks! Been looking over the headlight mounts, I might have to use my bench grinder to finish removing the lugs as there are two huge blobs of weld to remove :mad:
 

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If it was mine, I'd use the angle grinder with a thin cutting disc to remove the bulk of the lugs, followed by finishing with my power file.

The power file is the best tool I've bought recently, not expensive, but so versatile, from removing rust and paint through to heavy duty grinding down of metal surfaces and tidying up my rubbish welding.
 

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Discussion Starter #611 (Edited)
As Richard was writing the above I was in the garage removing the lugs with my angle-grinder and a thin cutting disc! Then I ground them down on my bench grinder
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The ground parts are flush with the tubes so I 've got some low spots. After a couple of blisters from automatically feeling for smoothness with my thumb (DOH!!) I gobbed some filler in there.
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Just need to sand, prime and paint when it's dry. Fitting the swing-arm next when I've cut the rear shock bolts down to size they're about 15mm too long. Inner bushes are too tight on the swing-arm as well so some careful fine-sanding is called for and grease as no way will they fit I might have got overspray in there when I painted. Then my new grease nipples will be fitted and grease pumped in.

My thumbs very sore . . . . . . . . . . :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #612
Fork ears done. No drips, no sags, no runs, no indicator mounts!
303897

If SWMBO allows I'm getting the swing-arm and rear shocks on today and make it look like I'm getting somewhere!
 

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Discussion Starter #614
Thanks very much Jim.
My thumb wasn't as painful today so I fitted the swing-arm, footrest hangers and shocks.
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Shock bolts are too long so some sawing is called for. The lower shock arms are too wide on the bushes so I think I need to add a few washers either side of each bush. Nothing has been torqued up yet I'm just re-familiarizing myself with all the bits and fitting them in place, such things as side panel brackets, footrest brackets and the like are still to be found in my pile of bits. I'm so glad I took pictures before and during the tear down but I wish I'd taken more!
Next time I will!
"What do you mean 'next time' " (SWMBO) o_O
 

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Discussion Starter #616
I just found a picture of my headlamp ears as taken off the bike nearly two years ago. I know they look a bit better now but I'd forgotten what they looked like before
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303934

Quite a difference. Phospheric acid does a cracking job of removing rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #617
A while back I filled and sanded some imperfections out of the side panels and the rear seat surround. I'd pulled the stripes off so it was necessary to clean them up a bit. Decided today to sand them smooth and apply some plastic primer.
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Now they're almost ready for red primer and the red top coat.
Does anyone have a clear picture of where the foot brake is anchored? I can't work out where it fits for the life of me it's driving me nuts! It came off somewhere behind the alloy foot peg mount but my addled brain refuses to remember where!
 

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Jim will know... and I just looked at the fiche, which isn't helpful at all. Quite sure you've already discovered that James o_O
 

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Discussion Starter #619
Jim will know... and I just looked at the fiche, which isn't helpful at all. Quite sure you've already discovered that James o_O
Yes, I have! Very unhelpful! As far as I can tell the alloy bracket takes a bolt through one of the lower holes and screws into the centre stand pivot directly opposite, holding the brake pedal in place between these two. The pedal fits nicely in the space there. The only trouble is I haven't got a bolt that's long enough to reach the end of the centre stand pivot and bolt it in place. Infuriating! :mad:
Going to have to trawl through over 100 labeled bags to see if the bolt has got miss-labeled.
That is, if I'm correct in my assumption? o_O
 

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Discussion Starter #620
Well I've just scrapped that idea! Just been crawling about in the cold and dark under my frame and there are no threads on the centre stand pivot and it doesn't even line up with any holes in the alloy footrest hanger! Foot brake takes an M8 bolt but it's not a threaded hole and where it attaches is anyone's guess. Surely it's not just bolted to the alloy hanger with a nut on the end? Not strong enough surely and very un-Honda-like!
 
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