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Discussion Starter #581
Success!
303312

I think??
Thinking on what Tom said about deflating it again I did just that. I packed the half-inch gap on both sides with copious quantities of tyre soap, removed my tyre valve yet again, connected my brand new double-barrel foot pump and pumped away. It inflated and at about 40 PSI bubbles started emerging so they got the dish soap treatment. Continued pumping and at 60 PSI what can only be described as a double wet fart erupted from both sides of the tyre, spewing tyre soap everywhere! No double pop, which I was expecting. Wiped it down, let the air out and replaced the valve core and pumped it up to 40 PSI. It's been like that for two hours now, no leakage of air and it seems to be centred on the wheel. Sucess? Or does it need to go bang? There's tyre soap absolutely everywhere, up the walls, desk, etc.

Oops! Did I mention I did it in the warm in the box room? Best get it cleaned up quick!:rolleyes:
 
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Chop chop on the room cleanup! :p The picture won't enlarge quite enough to see up close enough to be completely sure, but it does look to be out all the way on the side visible... sometimes the tire just slowly crawls out quietly, other times it makes the loud pop - but we'll take what we can get as long as it is fully seated on the bead (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #583 (Edited)
Tom, left click on the picture, you get a slightly bigger one. Then right click on that picture and choose 'open image in new tab'. Then click that picture and you will have a mahoosive view of my wheel!

Now I've finally succeeded I know exactly how to go about doing the rear tyre. But first, centre stand on then front disks, brakes, hoses, forks, clocks, bars, switches etc. etc. Must catch up for lost time . . . . . . :)
 

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Discussion Starter #584 (Edited)
Decals for the red paint scheme are now on order. This is how I hope it will look:
303313

Vauxhall Burgundy is a close match for this colour, using a dark red primer. Six cans of each is £50 so I've not finished spending yet!!
 
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Hi James,

Tyre and wheel looks good !

Just checking, you have got the rotation direction correct ?
 

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Discussion Starter #586
Hi James,

Tyre and wheel looks good !

Just checking, you have got the rotation direction correct ?
First thing I did Richard! Don't want to go through all this and have it on the wrong way now do I? Getting the tyre on this time was the easiest part, tyre soap and one good shove and the first side was on, second side needed one tyre spoon but by far the worst was beading the damn thing up. Hopefully I will bead up the rear no problem with what I've now learned!
 
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Discussion Starter #587
I've taken the head and barrel off the bike as I am painting them. I was advised by Jim and others to replace the piston rings and hone the cylinder so a hone tool and new rings were duly purchased. Is it worth removing the valves and lapping them in? I've placed water on the valves and nothing leaks through to the other side as I can see. The bike's done 17800 miles so should I disturb the valves or not? I have a valve spring compressor and realise a suitably sized socket and a tap from a hammer will free the collets (keepers?) off so it's not too difficult a job.

Will I be wasting my time?
 

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I wouldn't say you'd be wasting your time, but I will say that using water as a test is pointless - use fuel or acetone to test and go from there. Was it running well before? Or did you run the bike at all before teardown? I can't recall
 

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Discussion Starter #589
I wouldn't say you'd be wasting your time, but I will say that using water as a test is pointless - use fuel or acetone to test and go from there. Was it running well before? Or did you run the bike at all before teardown? I can't recall
Alas I did the same silly thing as I did on my CD200. I was that eager to tear it down I didn't even try to start it! Hopefully it will start as did the 200 they're both Hondas after all!
Yes, Acetone or petrol would have been better as they have less surface tension but a glass of water was handy! Would the valves need lapping after 17800 miles or am I just making more work for myself? I don't think it's hard to do and at least I'll know they are in tip top condition.

Am I talking myself into doing it . . . . . . . :unsure: ?
 

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I think you are (y) and it certainly couldn't hurt. Whether or not it was running well previously, it won't be detrimental and will give you the peace of mind for the future that you'd have checked everything important in the top end.
 

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Discussion Starter #591 (Edited)
That's it then Tom. Decision made. Cheers. Where's me hammer . . er . . spring compressor? :rolleyes:
 
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You already have it in bits James, so better do it as preventative maintenance, we did on my CB200 with 6000+ miles on it. We only did the top end because of the cam shaft problem, we are now considering stripping it right down, so should have saved on time and gaskets and done it all in one go.
 

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Discussion Starter #593
Well, I went into the garage earlier to pick up my handlebar switches, the plugs need re-connecting and some loom wrap putting around the wires but only indoors in the warm. When I came out of the garage some three hours later I'd fitted the centre-stand, side-stand, front forks, handlebar mount and handlebars to the frame. I just got carried away I suppose.:rolleyes:
Irene, I think I will do the valves, I don't want to pull it all apart again for some time!:)
 
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Discussion Starter #595
Or ever again in your lifetime...
There's that, too! Getting too old to mess with heavy frames, I need to ride the pair of them and compare!

But only in the sunshine . . . . . . . :)
 
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Discussion Starter #596
Just looking through the pile of bits I've got to put back on the frame and came across these:-
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303581


Front and rear crash bars. Originally I think these were chrome but someone has painted over it in black, or that's what it looks like! My question is, do I re-paint them better and replace on the frame or shall I do without them? Is their ugliness warranted by the 'protection' they give or are they just useless junk?
Can't make my mind up . . . . . . :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #597
Tom, I just repeated my test with the valves only using the old petrol out of the tank which actually still smells like petrol considering it's been in the tank unused since 2004! I have leaks on both sides, exhaust valves I think so it's true. Petrol is thinner than water . . . . . . . . :rolleyes:
 

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Ditch them James, unless you're going to attach stabilising wheels to them! :ROFLMAO:

Just looking through the pile of bits I've got to put back on the frame and came across these:-
View attachment 303580

View attachment 303581

Front and rear crash bars. Originally I think these were chrome but someone has painted over it in black, or that's what it looks like! My question is, do I re-paint them better and replace on the frame or shall I do without them? Is their ugliness warranted by the 'protection' they give or are they just useless junk?
Can't make my mind up . . . . . . :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #599
Crash bars ditched!
Clocks now fitted
303622

Suspension bolts too rusty so swing arm not fitted yet but the stands are on
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Showing off my dusty frame not to mention a bomb-site of a garage!
Re-fitting the plugs to the switches at present then wrapping the wires. Where can I get a plastic wrap like the original? Better yet, what's the proper name for it so I can search? Plastic sheathing?
 

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What are you going to clean the bolts with James, you could try the Harpic Power Plus that I use to clean the petrol/fuel tanks out with.
 
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