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I think that may be a difference, I'm fairly sure I remember the taper and the closer together coils being on the same end of the spring. Interesting that it was different for the 400N
 

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My not particularly helpful contribution to the springs debate.

On my CB600 Hornet, the tightly wound end of the OEM progressive fork spring is at the bottom of the fork leg. I've read the unsprung weight theory before, but can't say that I find it particularly convincing.

On my Hornet, I've fitted Ohlins linear fork springs, which are wound the same all the way up, no tighter section. Theory with progressive springs is that the wide coils soak up gentle bumps, tight coils make the fork 'stiffer' as the fork compresses, more suitable for tourers than sports bikes.

CB600 fork diagram

303008
 

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Discussion Starter #563
Thanks for the input everyone. I've tried several times since to fit the cupped dish into the centre of the wide spaced coils to no avail. On both springs it refuses to centre correctly but pops right into place on the tightly wound springs no trouble at all. So the tighter wound coils will be doing their job at the top of the leg. I suppose the bottom of the spring, the widely spaced coils in my case, will be constantly soaking up small bumps, leaving the tight wound coils with little to do until a bigger bump arrives to make them work for a living!
 

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I think that the valves would pop out of the petrol can before you got enough pressure James, but it might be worth a try to see what happens. Please do a video so we can all see the results and possibly have a good laugh in the process!
 

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Steve has just suggested that you deflate your tyre, then place a ratchet strap around the tyre and tighten it up, finally pump your tyre back up. This is a method usually used when there is an air leak between the tyre and rim, so it might work for you to set your bead. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #566
Steve has just suggested that you deflate your tyre, then place a ratchet strap around the tyre and tighten it up, finally pump your tyre back up. This is a method usually used when there is an air leak between the tyre and rim, so it might work for you to set your bead. Good luck.
That's what I did in the end Irene. The tyre is beaded all the way around on both sides apart from the last 9 inches or so. It wouldn't have taken much more to get it to fully seat but my pump seals gave up the ghost and as is usual with a Halfraud merchandise when broke it stays broke as in non-replaceable seals! Me jumping up and down on it like a maniac didn't help I suppose so, when my new pump arrives I shall be more careful.
Link below to a DIY bicycle tubeless tyre fitter!


My idea is the same only use a bigger bottle. A garden pressure sprayer would be ideal but I haven't got one. An 'F' sized oxygen bottle from the hospital would be perfect but it's getting it out of the building . . . . o_O

There is a test on youtube somewhere on how much pressure you can pump into a coke bottle. In all cases the bottle split before the valve seal did and this at about 140 PSI so if I make sure I fit the valves properly and then seal them in before I replace the cap I should be OK.

Right then, Irene, where's me camera tripod . . . . . . . :)
 

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Discussion Starter #567
Pressure vessel has been cobbled together however, my replacement foot pump is still en route to my house via the postman . . . . .
303129

Forks are finally back together as well
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Headlight 'ears' have got to be sanded down and re-painted as there are runs and also scuff marks from them being stored without enough bubble wrap around them for protection.

Centre stand next I think, then sort the wheel and forks and re-unite them all with the frame . . . . . . . :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #568
My home-made compressor didn't work. It enlarged like a football and when the air was released into the tyre it just wasn't enough to do the job. More attempts with a ratchet strap proved fruitless so it's getting taken to a garage airline sometime soon. It's annoying because there's only about 9 inches of tyre that hasn't beaded up. Oh well, can't win 'em all! :)
Headlamp supports have rubbers top and bottom and they are not in the best of health. In fact they're awful, very perished and starting to fall to bits. Saw these online:
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£22 made of aluminium to fit 32mm forks so a perfect fit. Still undecided whether to buy or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #570
I used those headlight ears on my 450 James, I got them from 4into1.com over here. Good product
Cheers Tom. (y) It's always good to get some knowledge about a product off someone who has actually bought it. I shall wait for my 'allowance' off SWMBO and then buy them, along with the decals for my new maroon colour scheme! :)
 

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The only issue with those ears is that they create a solid mount. I did a solid mount on the road bike for awhile but got tired of replacing the headlight bulb every month. The rubbers work as a vibration dampener
CMSNL has both upper and 1 lower.
eBay has these 1981 Honda CM400C CM400 Custom H908-2' fork ear rubber bushing set | eBay. I know the lowers are correct not sure the uppers will work
 

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Discussion Starter #572
Thanks Jim, I never thought of that. However, the vibration won't matter on mine as I am replacing the bulb with an LED one from Classic Car and Motorcycle dynamo rebuilding and Electronic Dynamo Regulators Mind you, at £50 it's not cheap! Actually I'm not planning on riding in the dark so I could fit a halogen new bulb for the MOT and then take it out (so the vibration won't blow it) for when I ride. :) (It's that £50 price tag that's putting me off the LED bulb!). I have two 55w halogen bulbs ready to fit. Cost? £2.44 each!
Perhaps there's room for some rubber strip in these 'ears' pictured above? We'll see!
 

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My CB200 seems to have the same problem with having to constantly replace the headlight bulb despite mine having the original fittings!

Do those new ones have a fitting for your indicators as well James?
 

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Discussion Starter #574
My CB200 seems to have the same problem with having to constantly replace the headlight bulb despite mine having the original fittings!

Do those new ones have a fitting for your indicators as well James?
No, but I have my trusty drill. :) Actually, the indicators I have are the real deal, not cheap stuff and are quite solid. The wire passes through the centre and I was wondering if I could double up and use the indicator stalk as a headlamp shell mount. It'll have to wait now until I get the forks and wheel on. MOT for SWMBO's car tomorrow, so I'm popping my wheel in the boot and getting them to run an airline in it for a bit!
 

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Discussion Starter #575
Jim told me about vibration being a problem with hard-mounted headlamp mounts so I did some more looking on the Internet and found these:
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Rubber mounts for both the forks and the headlamp shell and at a sensible price too. They have been duly ordered. If, when everything has FINALLY been put back together on the frame, they look wrong I shall have to re-think the original mounts and cobble something together, might even use the rubbers off these new ones somehow. I find lots of stuff on the hospital corridor floors. In fact, one of the rectifier mounting rubbers was found thus, and it's a perfect match for the one I lost!
 

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Discussion Starter #576
Hah! Took SWMBO's car for an MOT and took my wheel as promised. Car passed the MOT but they couldn't bead the tyre! It inflated a bit more but that was it. The tyre's sitting on the wheel nicely beaded all the way around bar the last fifth of it's circumference, where it dips into the wheel and makes it look 'out of round'. The garage were closing up and there was residual air in the air tank which wasn't enough to do the job obviously.
Getting sick of this blasted tyre now . . . . . . . . . :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #579
You may have to deflate it and put some soap or other "lubricant" under that section of the bead
Hi Tom! I've got that much soap in there sliding about it's a wonder there's room for air! I think it just likes causing me to tear out what little is left of my hair!
 

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Discussion Starter #580
You can take the valve core out to get it to bead, the core acts as a restrictor, put it back once beaded James.
Did that Irene at the garage. Damn thing still won't bead but he wasn't operating on a full tank of air as it was switched off because they were closing. Perhaps a compressor that's actually on a full tank of air would have done it!
 
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