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Discussion Starter #541
I use araldite rapid, the one that has two equal dispensing tubes, I apply it with the tip of a cocktail stick. Once it is fully dried it is over to Steve who flattens it back with different grades of wet and dry, ending with the finest. We have had great success this way.

Steve does advise to use a stanley blade first to any pits, to take off any flakes that might get missed with wire wool or wet and dry.
Cheers Irene I've heard of people doing that. I think I'm OK but will give it a try if, when the legs are dry, I can still feel lumps and bumps of rust!
 

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If you can still feel them, they are likely to damage your new seals and leak fluid, which of course is an MOT fail. Better to put more preparation in at the start, than have to do the job all over again.
 

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Discussion Starter #543
If you can still feel them, they are likely to damage your new seals and leak fluid, which of course is an MOT fail. Better to put more preparation in at the start, than have to do the job all over again.
I've checked the pits and all of them are out of the way of the seals, unless I hit a very big bump and they bottom out, in which case I'd be off the bike rapidly head-first with more things to worry about! Seriously though, I WILL check them out and get aralditing anyway!
My problem now is that I have fork springs with closer coils at one end and can't remember if these closer coils go at the bottom of the leg or the top? :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #545
Your manual or the cmsnl microfiche might show you which way they should be James
Ha Ha Not the Haynes junk I have! Just to 'replace the springs the way you pulled them out' Trouble is, although I photographed everything I didn't make a note of the spring orientation. How hard was it for the Haynes man to take note on his strip down and then tell us?
 

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How hard was it for the Haynes man to take note on his strip down and then tell us?
Apparently so hard he thought it would impinge on his profits from the manual as he was in a hurry to "write" the next one!
 

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I think the general opinion is that it doesn't matter which direction as long as both forks are the same. The shop manual says the narrowed part of the spring should be at the bottom of the fork.
 

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Discussion Starter #548
Apparently so hard he thought it would impinge on his profits from the manual as he was in a hurry to "write" the next one!
Tom, it even tells me how to set the points gap and change the condenser, neither of which are applicable to my bike! Are the engine and frame torque settings for the bolts on the CM/CB400T the same as my CB400N because I don't trust the Haynes manual at all and I can download the CM/CB400T manuals.
 

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Discussion Starter #549
I think the general opinion is that it doesn't matter which direction as long as both forks are the same. The shop manual says the narrowed part of the spring should be at the bottom of the fork.
Thanks for that matey! Although the jury seems to be out on this one as it seems to be a 50/50 split on various forums.
 

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James, if I had to guess I would say they would be the same respective to the similar or same bolts, yes. If you can't find the manual you need, LDR has them in his off-site library. Let me know if you want to get it there.
 

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Discussion Starter #551 (Edited)
James, if I had to guess I would say they would be the same respective to the similar or same bolts, yes. If you can't find the manual you need, LDR has them in his off-site library. Let me know if you want to get it there.
Tom, I would dearly love to get my hands on a PROPER Honda manual there are SO many mistakes in my Haynes manual. Details on setting the points on a CDI bike is just for starters and it makes me wonder about other, more important stuff that could be dangerous if Haynes got it wrong! For instance, my front disks are held on by 5 through bolts with nuts. Haynes say each disk is held on by 5 bolts a side, 10 bolts in all. This is just a silly mistake backed up by a schematic showing ten bolts! All this makes me doubt if they have serious stuff wrong, like torque settings on my cylinder head bolts!
 

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Tom, I would dearly love to get my hands on a PROPER Honda manual there are SO many mistakes in my Haynes manual. Details on setting the points on a CDI bike is just for starters and it makes me wonder about other, more important stuff that could be dangerous if Haynes got it wrong! For instance, my front disks are held on by 5 through bolts with nuts. Haynes say each disk is held on by 5 bolts a side, 10 bolts in all. This is just a silly mistake backed up by a schematic showing ten bolts! All this makes me doubt if they have serious stuff wrong, like torque settings on my cylinder head bolts!
Check your Conversations, James
 

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Discussion Starter #553 (Edited)
Check your Conversations, James
Cheers Tom I shall take a look.
On the fork springs front, I have been having a fiddle with the little allen screw that holds the spring tension before the final fork screw is fitted. Underneath this is a small dish that fits into the end of the spring. It will only fit properly on the end of the spring with the tightest coils, it wobbles about on the other end and refuses to seat on the spring. It fits perfectly on both springs on the tight coils, but not the other end so this seems to say to me that the tightest wound coils go uppermost.
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Honestly, it fits PERFECTLY tightest coils up. The other way around it just wobbles about and sits at an angle. When all put together the top cap presses onto this cap through the allen screw and gives the spring it's final tension. It looks easy, then, to pre-load the springs by placing a suitable object inside the hexagon, resting on the cap beneath. My bike is the CB400NB, which had lots of small changes to the CB400N, one of them being bushed forks. Thankfully, it also had a proper badge on the tank instead of that awful decal thing!
So, in my case anyway, the springs are going back in tight coils uppermost!
 

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Discussion Starter #555
The tight wound end goes down,
So I was led to believe Jim but it just won't fit.
Tightly coiled end perfect fit very easily achieved, it pops straight on.
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On the loosely coiled end, the middle diameter of the spring is narrower and the seat just won't sit on it properly

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It keeps getting pushed to one side no matter how I try to make it fit, both springs do this. So, being as it pops right on to the tightly coiled end that's the end going uppermost in my case. The jury is out on the internet as well as far as I can tell. It's roughly 50/50 between mechanics that have put them in tight coils down for 40 years over tight coils up and give convincing arguments to the pros and cons of both.
When I finally ride the thing I'll let you know how it performs!
 

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OH, by tight coil I was thinking it tapered which is why I wrote that end goes down. You have the correct orientation with the closer windings at the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #557
OH, by tight coil I was thinking it tapered which is why I wrote that end goes down. You have the correct orientation with the closer windings at the top.
Sorry Jim, I really must write more clearly as what I write can be a bit confusing sometimes, even to me!
Here's a clip of one mechanics thoughts
'It's all about unsprung weight. Unsprung weight is anything attached to a wheel that moves with the wheel. The higher the unsprung weight, the less able the suspension is to control it and the slower it responds. So, the correct way to put the spring in is the way that offers the least unsprung weight. This means the light end goes downwards towards the moving end with respect to the chassis. Therefore I'll say it's largest coil spacing down.'

That'll start a debate I'm sure! :rolleyes:
 

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Sorry Jim, I really must write more clearly as what I write can be a bit confusing sometimes, even to me!
Here's a clip of one mechanics thoughts
'It's all about unsprung weight. Unsprung weight is anything attached to a wheel that moves with the wheel. The higher the unsprung weight, the less able the suspension is to control it and the slower it responds. So, the correct way to put the spring in is the way that offers the least unsprung weight. This means the light end goes downwards towards the moving end with respect to the chassis. Therefore I'll say it's largest coil spacing down.'

That'll start a debate I'm sure! :rolleyes:
I knew what you meant James, so possibly a “lost in translation” case rather than your explanation. I was going to say tight coils at the top, that’s what we have found in the past, but I suppose not for all models.
Can’t wait for you to finish this one and finally get to enjoy riding it.
 

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Discussion Starter #560
Can’t wait for you to finish this one and finally get to enjoy riding it.
I can't wait either Irene but I think I'll be on my CD in spring first as this one actually has both wheels attached and an engine that runs. Well, it did 4 months ago probably got to fiddle with it now that I can open the garage door.

I've been thinking about fitting two tyre valves into the head of a two gallon plastic unused petrol can, one with the valve removed. This one connects by tube to my tyre, the other one to a new foot pump as I broke the last one frantically pumping trying to set the bead. Clamp the tube that leads to the tyre with mole grips and use the pump to pressurize the can. Get it to about 120 psi which, apparently, they can take (a two litre coke bottle will take 80 psi before popping) then release the mole grips and pop the bead in place!

Sounds good in theory . . . . . . .. :)
 
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