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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Good luck with your new project. Are you permanently joining the ranks of us slacker retirees then?
Ray
Thank you Ray. I'd like to be able to join the ranks of the retired old motorcycle fanatics but I need an income as well as my wife's Council pension otherwise I don't have sufficient funds to do a proper job! Not without severely annoying the wife anyway by not leaving enough money for food!

Tyres (Tires, sorry!) are £120 plus, fork stanchions need re-chroming (£200 plus), sprockets and chain £60 at least and that's just for starters! Overhaul kit for the brake master cylinder, two sets of front brake pads, who knows what condition the rear drum is in. You see my predicament? I need another job, pronto! :(

Or rob a bank . . . . . . . ?
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Frame is a bit rusty as well along with faded switchgear . . . .

rusty spine.jpg rusty front spine.jpg faded switchgear.jpg

More rust under the side-panels but PO removed the battery so no acid spillage . . . .

rectifier.jpg battery carrier.jpg

Gear linkage is seized up with rust but the rubber boots seem OK. Chainguard is plastic so no rust which I'm grateful for as I'm still fabricating a new one for my CD200

gear linkage.jpg plastic chainguard.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Seats a bit rusty . . .

under seat pan.JPG

Look what I found under it though, although the toolbox lid is missing . . . .

original toolkit.jpg

A complete, original toolkit!

Master cylinder has seen better days. Switchgear is badly faded . . . .


nasty master cylider.jpg faded switchgear.jpg


Started to take the pannier brackets off but need to drill the head off this bolt on both sides as it's the only one of six that is welded in place with rust!

stuck bolt.jpg bracket almost off.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Rear light and tail mudguard removed

rear light removed.jpg rusty rear light underside.jpg

A few more views of the engine for reference later. . . . .

grow summat here.jpg left carb.jpg top carb engine.jpg

Once I've got the pannier brackets off out the way I can start to strip the rest of the bike. Hopefully I won't have to drill anymore bolts out. Hah!
 

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James, You've taken on quite the project, but your work with the CD200 proves your capability. I've seen tons of rusted parts, but I somehow don't remember ever seeing shift linkage where the chrome has failed enough to let the rust take over like this. Another first!
 

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Rusty crusty old bikes, gotta love them. I think the original shift linkage on these was either painted or plated, not chrome, but then again I've never seen that in person. The tool box lid may not exist, the US CM/CB 400 didn't have one.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I somehow don't remember ever seeing shift linkage where the chrome has failed enough to let the rust take over like this.
Tell me about it! My first viewing was rather cramped and in semi-shadow in the garage I thought it was OK. Obviously I was wrong. Two of the rubber boots are split as well and the plating, chrome or otherwise, has been replaced by rust!

Normally I would source a better item on ebay, there are a few about, and maybe I will have to buy the boots (there's a few new ones about of them too), but seeing as funds are rather limited (ie non-existent) I will have to strip back the rust and paint it black or silver. I've a lot of stainless nuts and bolts left over from the 200 so I should be able to find some that fit. (Anyone who followed my CD200 thread will know that won't happen!)

Plan is to keep taking parts off, get it down to the frame then start removing rust and dodgy paint. I've learnt from experience not to paint below 20 degrees centigrade (CD200 thread again!) so that will happen when the sun comes out again!

For now, it's removing, tagging, bagging and photographing. Unless the mrs. requires my presence elsewhere . . . . . . :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Rusty crusty old bikes, gotta love them.
I do! As long as the rust hasn't eaten through the metal and left a hole, because my welding skills are zero! The front mudguard (fender!) has bad rust and is thin in places. Can't afford £60 for a pattern part but I can afford to wire brush, grind, fill and paint it to make it look good until happier times. (More disposable income. MUCH more!) I'd have a garage sale but it's just junk. I'd be lucky to make 20 quid!

Forks need re-chroming, they're badly pitted. Er, they may have to wait a while as well . . . . . . . . :roll:
 

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Your shifter setup looks the same as my 1982 ft500 ascot. (less the rust)
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Your shifter setup looks the same as my 1982 ft500 ascot. (less the rust)
You mean one of these . . . ?

Honda FT500.jpg

Nice bike. Honda moved the footrests rearwards to give a more leaning forwards position on the CB400N, hence the linkage to the gearchange pedal because the gearshaft is still in the same place in the engine. Looks like they did this across multiple bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Great find James! Bet the CD is feeling jealous though...
The CD will have to wait for some warmth so I can spray the chainguard black. THEN, I can MOT it, tax it, insure myself, buy a skid lid and clothing and ride it!

Oh, wait a minute. Lack of funds . . . . . .

Back to wire-brushing the CB then! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Finally got the pannier brackets off. They are going to a good home.

brackets.JPG


With the brackets off I was able to take the middle metal mudguard part off.

metal guard underside.JPG metal guard.JPG metal guard off.JPG

What is left is the third part of the rear mudguard system, made of plastic which has the toolbox attached to the top of it.

plastic guard toolbox.jpg

Held in place with this bolt.

that nut.jpg


And this nut underneath the mudguard, deeply recessed, very awkward to get to and welded onto its bolt with rust. Nice!

this nut.jpg


Rear footpegs are part of the crash bars so I need to source some replacements.

rear footpeg.JPG

Condition of the metal looks bad but it's mainly bubbled up paint and surface rust. There may be a little pitting of the surface but with a little filler when finished it will be out of sight. I'll soon find out if there are any holes in it when I get my trusty wire brush out!
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Just been out again as it gets dark couldn't rest until I twirled a spanner one more time today. Took the rear crash bars off no trouble then sprayed every nut and bolt on the bike with penetrating oil and then sprayed all the rusted steel and oxidized aluminium I could find with WD40.

Well, I don't want it to rust MUCH more, do I? :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Been out spannering again. That nut holding my inner mudguard with the bad recess is no more. Note to oneself I must get some decent drill bits when funds allow! It took forever to drill half the head off. The rest was done with a cutting blade on a dremmel and a cold chisel. A bit of a heath robinson way of going about it but it worked!

bolt gone.JPG

Mudguard still won't come off it's held by some unseen object. So I had a look at this:-

rectifier board.JPG

A lot more wires than the CD. So I took it off anyway!

rectifier board off.jpg
 

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James, instead of buying more drill bits, find yourself a cheap bench grinder if you don't already have one. It is pretty easy to grind a new point, once you learn how. Drill bits should be like the old wooden pencils we used to use. Don't throw them away till they are too short from repeated sharpening. You can also buy a drill point gauge that slips onto a 6 inch scale (ruler) to help you get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
James, instead of buying more drill bits, find yourself a cheap bench grinder
Cheers Ray. Actually I have a grinding wheel that fits onto an electric drill and would have made short work of that bolt head but, as usual when you need something, it could not be found anywhere so I had to make do with the things I COULD find!

I didn't damage the frame metal but it did take a lot longer than it should have. I think I need to have a tidy-up of the garage then I might be able to put my hands on tools when I need them and not to have to keep on hunting for them!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So now I'm at this stage:

what have I done.JPG

And I'm thinking "What have I done? Can this be put back correctly and work? Why am I doing this?" and lots more self-doubt.

Anyway, it's got to be de-populated of electrical objects so it can be de-rusted and painted. No pressure then!

I know these will cause problems:

left caliper.jpg

Yes, the front brake calipers. Even though there's one each side, just like on the CX500 I had, they weren't very good at stopping from new and to overhaul them 20 years later or in my case this time 40 years down the road from new stripping them out is going to be a nightmare! The pistons will undoubtedly be corroded and seized in the calipers along with the bleed nipples as per the CX500 I had and require renewing along with all the seals. At £50 a caliper for the parts it'll have to wait. Master cylinder is £22 per overhaul kit so that can wait too.

So I'll keep on photographing, stripping, bagging and tagging until funds can be sneaked past the ever watchful eyes of the mrs who has earmarked said money for more frivolous things such as food and tea bags. :rolleyes:


Last edited by james adams; Today at 12:01 PM.​
 

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Put some spare change in the bank, by the time you get it cleaned up the interest should finance it:). Joking aside I enjoy you posts. And I like the gold wheels, they remind me of old gp two stroke mags. You'll color em good I'm sure though.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I like the gold wheels. You'll color em good I'm sure though.
For me, the gold doesn't contrast enough against the bare alloy hence the change to black eventually. For now though it's pulling the bike apart and hopefully not losing or forgetting where I put everything!
 
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