[Gremson]

I've felt almost an imperceptible uneasiness with riding lately. Like I'm riding slightly grooved pavement, but I haven't been.
Anyway, today I noticed some play in my front wheel while pushing it around some cars in a driveway. There's a spacer piece between the wheel and the right fork. When I turn the wheel back and forth it clanks from side to side. Maybe 1/16 to 1/8th of an inch.
My question is, should there be play in that?
I've never removed my front wheel before. And since I rarely push my bike around, I've never noticed if it's something that's always been that way.
Is this normal? Am I imagining problems where there are none?
Thanks guys!

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[doode]

Should be no play
Post a side view

 

[Gremson]

Like this?
In the second photo you can kinda see the gap.

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[doode]

How's the other side look?
Those 2 nuts on the bottom tight?
Maybe you need to tighten the axle?
First check the nuts. If tight, then maybe you need to tighten the axle.

 

[76TWIN]

I would loosen the nuts on the forks holding the axle and then tap it (the axle) from the other side until the spacer sits flushed against the fork.

You just left too much clearance is all.

 

[Gremson]

The other side seems OK. But it's getting too dark to really accomplish anything.
The bottom bolts are tight. Maybe I hit a speed bump a little too enthusiastically?
Looks like I'll have to find an alternate way to work tomorrow. Hopefully I'll just be able to tap it back into place as suggested.

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[JAYinNY]

I would loosen the nuts on the forks holding the axle and then tap it (the axle) from the other side until the spacer sits flushed against the fork.

You just left too much clearance is all.

With the wheel off and the axle tight there will be no side to side play unless something is wrong. You need to remove the wheel and check that the axle is tight. I would not recommend just pushing that spacer flush against the lower leg. While this might seem to solve the problem, it may just mask a much larger issue.

 

[fxray]

+100 with what Jay said. You either have a missing distance piece, an incorrect distance piece (for your bike), or something is bent. With the wheel in the forks, you should not be able to move it side to side at all, even if those nuts and lower caps are less than finger tight. You should not ride the bike until you figure this out. If you have the FSM, look up the picture that shows the section view of the front wheel hub and brake panel. Are all the pieces present on your bike? How much history do you know about this bike? Did you or somebody else replace the front wheel bearings? Not to overemphasize this, but your life is at stake here.

 

[Gremson]

I do have a PDF of a service manual. I'll check it all out when I get home from work. Luckily I got a ride today. My twin is my only form of transportation right now, but I'm not riding until I solve this issue.
I've never removed the wheel myself before. Last time it was removed was when I had new fork seals put on by a shop about 6 months ago. I've never noticed any problem until I posted the problem here yesterday.

 

[76TWIN]

Dude. It's not rocket science to remove the wheel, just do it.

 

[Gremson]

Dude. It's not rocket science to remove the wheel, just do it.

That's the plan when I get home.

 

[bilbikek411]

I would loosen the nuts on the forks holding the axle and then tap it (the axle) from the other side until the spacer sits flushed against the fork.

You just left too much clearance is all.

Yes,loosen the two bottom fork cap nuts on the one fork then tighten the large axle nut to the correct spec. according to the service manual,then tighten that front wheel according to the book.

 

[slofut]

I suspect loose/worn wheel bearings! Not good for your health.

Except for what Bil411 just said...

 

[Gremson]

I got the caps off and pulled the wheel off.
I'm not sure how one would check to see if the axle is loose, but I wanked it around with my hand and it didn't flop or slop at all. I wasn't able to identify any axle nut to tighten.
But I put the wheel back on and it all seemed to fit back snug as it should. No slop.
Is it possible that I could've hit a bump or dropped my bike hard enough to have skewed it in such a way? This old girl has definitely been put through some paces in the past few weeks.
I'm gonna avoid the 30 mile 50mph commute to work tomorrow, but this weekend I'll give it a decent shake down and see how she handles. Hopefully it was something as simple as taking it off and putting it back on again.

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[doode]

The caps have a front and back side to them. The front is taller and should be tightened with a gap at the back. Not sure if the is covered on your manual? 13ft lbs, maybe?

 

[Gremson]

The caps have a front and back side to them. The front is taller and should be tightened with a gap at the back. Not sure if the is covered on your manual? 13ft lbs, maybe?

I saw that in the common motor video I watched. I don't have a torque wrench, but I made sure they were good and tight when I put it back together.

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[JAYinNY]

While the basic principles are the same I would like to know the model of your Honda so I can post some specific photos to help you(if I have that bike). I think it's a CL350. You definitely have problem here that could easily have bad consequences. DO NOT RIDE THIS BIKE UNTIL IT IS SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Gremson]

It's a 73 CL350.
I appreciate the concern and any assistance you can offer!

 

[JAYinNY]

This is the axle nut. It is on the brake side and has 2 flats to grab with a wrench.


The other side of the axle has a hole for a pry bar.



The axle should be TIGHT and have zero movement.

 

[doode]

When tightening the axle, you should also pull the front brake. I use a shoe lace.