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Discussion Starter #1
Asking for a friend? lol

Its all back together and I've tried cranking but no joy. Compression is great. I'm getting spark. And fuel it would seem. Timing is balls on. Set it statically. It's making some pathetic popping sounds. back up the carbouretor it sounds. Was wondering if I could have the cam 180 degrees off?
 

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Asking for a friend? lol

Its all back together and I've tried cranking but no joy. Compression is great. I'm getting spark. And fuel it would seem. Timing is balls on. Set it statically. It's making some pathetic popping sounds. back up the carbouretor it sounds. Was wondering if I could have the cam 180 degrees off?
I would guess your rotor is 180 out.

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Check the timing advance cam it can be 180 off. and bike will never run.
Tried everything and your bike just won't run? Rebuilt engine, new ignition parts, everything set right but it won't start? Watch this! The ignition timing advance unit was assembled incorrectly, easy fix!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So when you say rotor is 180 degrees off, you mean when lining up the lines on the cam gear it is important which way the lobes face? I know the gear will only go on one way. but the way the marks are done it auddenly occured to me two ways that could go on. So basicly I?m out 180 degrees. Guess I got lucky the other five times I had it apart!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had a problem with the advance unit before. Fixed that and am double sure its correct. Must be my cam is 180 degrees off.
 

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As long as the lines on the sprocket line up with the top of then head when the tdc line on the rotor lines up with the indicator then you should be fine. Doesn't matter if the lobes are up or down as you will have 2 tdc per powercycle.

Backfiring out of the carbs is most likely a timing issue. Pull the bolt out of the center of the advance unit, pull the cam out of it, rotate it 180 and put it back in.

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Easiest way to check is to turn the engine over until the points are just opening, then check the rocker arms on that side for looseness (valves closed, compression stroke).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok. So I sat and spun the motor by hand. It appears the crank is geared at a ration of 2:1 to the cam. And it appears that regardless of which way the lobes point if the lines are correct it is in time. It appears the bike will spark on both power and exhaust strokes. I wanted to understand what frogman was saying by seeing it myself. Now I get it after seing it in action. (I'm a visual person.) I did have the spark advancer apart. it appears to have a heavy line stamped in the edge of the outside. when I assmebled it I thought that line was supposed to line up with the notch in the back of the spinnign weight plate. (the notch for the peg on the cam to set the time.) Is that the correct reassembly? I had to fudge together one good advancer out of two because the springs on my old one where pretty shot.
 

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Depends on the unit. If I recall the line points to the arrow side on the base

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Discussion Starter #13
That was it. now I just have to get the idle right. Sync is done. timing dead on. Tappets dead on. Just trying to get the darn mixture straight. And it seems ot be making some timing chain noise. There is a new slipper in there. Do those take a while to settle in?
 

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You sure the slipper was installed correctly?
Back PC sitting above the engine case and you have to shove it down and bolt it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah it was up above the case a bit. And I had to shove it down a bit to get it in there. I used a flashlight and mirror to check the that the tensioner holder at the bottom was in the right position before installing. I spun the engine with the electric starter after install and it looked and sounded right at the time. Maybe its just my imagination? Or something else rattling.
 

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I could not get the proper tensioner adjustment with normal procedure, had to loosen the bolt while idling and tighten it back up. No more rattling. Just my experience though, kinda back yard method but it worked, was in a thread here somewhere.
 

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Some times after install the plunger that is spring loaded gets stuck. Little push helps.

The idle method does do the job and as long as you don't rev the bike while you are doing the adjustment you should be fine. The larger 500/550 4s have a similar tensioning system and they are done at an idle.

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Discussion Starter #20
hmm I may give that a shot. Once I get a day with no rain lol Managed to get the idle right on Saturday before the rain came. Ran beautifully. Idles smoothly at 1200 now. took about tow hours of my "playing with it" and experimenting to get the feel of it mostly because any small change would send the idle rising then falling and made it momentarily unstable and that made it hard to tell when I was hitting the max RMP. So I learned patience. I also learne dyou can mix up the connectors to the voltage regulator and the rotor windings. I managed to burn out my neutral light as a result. But luckily I ordered like 20 of those so I had spares.
 
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