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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone!

Great forum! I just bought a 1970 CL350 last week. It runs rough, and I figured it might be a carb issue (carbs were supposedly rebuilt, but I'm not assuming anything).

Anyway, here's my current problem. I went to adjust the valves today and they were all fine except the last one I touched (right side intake). It can't seem to be adjusted. It's completely tight. The valve adjustment screw was pretty tight as well, but I did manage to get it loose. However, no matter how much I turn it I can't seem to loosen up the space under the rocker arm. I'm sure I'm turning it the right way (based on the owners manual anyway - to the left).

At this point, I've probably done 3 complete turns to the left, so I'm thinking I'm screwed.....any idea what this could be? I have a sinking feeling.
 

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Sensei
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Are you SURE the right cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke? (the "T" index mark on the alternator rotor?)....... Even if it is at the "T", it could be 360 degrees off.......
IF there is nowhere found by rotating the CRANKSHAFT where BOTH the right side valves are "free" (not under any cam pressure) it is possible (although unlikely) that the valve has "hammered-into" the head......BUT, don't tear it down just yet.... The secondary index on the rocker adjuster shaft (makes a small "t" with the screwdriver slot as the top crossbar) MUST also be on the "away" side (relative to the spark plug hole) .....I can post a drawing of this if necessary, but will have to scan and upload it.
......Let us know what you find........ PIX?......... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
First off, you guys are AWESOME! As you almost certainly knew, it was the simplest explanation possible (somehow I got impatient and got into a panic - never a good thing). My copy of the shop manual is pretty screwed up, so I didn't even realize that the left and right intakes aren't at TDC at the same time! (duh) I'm such a goof. The part where it should say something like "after checking the left side, rotate the crankshaft to T and check the right side" was smudged. :lol: Somehow I stopped thinking and kept wrenching. Better a damaged shop manual than a damaged bike I guess!

I'll do a proper introduction soon (with pics). Promise!

I'm in love with this bike already and I haven't even ridden it yet.
 

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I checked my valves last night and they were all so tight I could hardly tell which cylinder was on the compression stroke. Five of the six were really tight, with four so tight I couldn't get my smallest gauge in there.
 

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That would be more meaningful if we knew the thickness of your smallest feeler gauge. The clearance for the CL350 twin is supposed to be 0.05mm or 0.002 inches for intake, 0.10mm/0.004 inches for the exhaust. Rebuilt carbs: if they've been sitting unused for a long time, they tend to need cleaning out anyway - good argument for running all the fuel out of the float chambres when parking it for the winter. I haven't dealt with the 350's carbs, but the ones on the 450 reliably get a plugged up low speed jet, which has a very tiny hole that can be cleaned out by stripping thin multi-strand copper wire and using one strand to push through the jet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
[long post – sorry. I'll be putting up an introduction in that section in a few minutes]

First, thanks for the service manual links! My first goal is to get the bike idling better. From there I’ll go for a quick ride and see what I need to prioritize.

Valve adjustment check – done. I suspect I set it a bit on the loose side, but better that than too tight I guess. I’ll probably re-check them again soon just to see how they’re behaving. QUESTION: The little ‘T’ sticking out on each tappet adjustment screw is pointed outwards, although they’re pointing on a 45 degree angle up and away from the spark plug, as opposed to the 45 degrees out and down and away as depicted in my shop manual. Am I ok since the ‘T’ part is still on the outside of the slot?

Points/timing – done! My first time doing this procedure (on any vehicle). The guide I found on here with pics is fantastic. My point plate has seen better days (lots of rust on the bottom bolts and the insulation on the wires is torn). The gaps were just inside the acceptable range (still tighter than I would like, but two lower adjustment screws are absolutely frozen on and hard to access, so I left it for now). When I checked the timing, the left side was off (test light came on after LT instead of at LF). It was tough to get it adjusted because I ultimately had to move the backer plate clockwise to the point where it was hitting the washer under the intake valve adjustment nut. Finally, I got it (I hope). The right side was easy to set after that (using the method described on this website and adjusting the points to do it. THANKS!).

Oil change – done. Easy on this bike to be sure.

Oil filter – didn’t do it yet. I need the special nut, which I’ll be getting soon.

Battery – looks good. It’s holding a charge (was at 13 volts 2 days ago and is now at 12.5 volts after all the messing around I’ve done). I’ve got a battery tender, so I can keep it topped off. That’ll be important because I’m not sure the kickstart is working properly.

Chain adjustment/lube – gotta do this first thing in the morning. It’s very loose and rusty. Rear sprocket is getting worn too. I plan to put on a new chain/sprockets once I know it runs.

Tires – holding air. Front looks pretty good, but the back is pretty worn. They look ancient though, so the rubber is probably brittle. I’ll likely change the tubes/tires at the end of the riding season.

Oh yeah, I discovered that I forgot to turn off the petcock (it was facing down - that's "on" isn't it? and off is to the front? reserve is to the rear?). My right-side carb decided to dump a tank of gas onto the garage floor for me. A stuck float perhaps? I see serious carb work in my future.

Tomorrow morning I’ll fire her up and see what happens. Combined with the valve/timing adjustments and a few carb adjustments at idle, I’m hoping things will be much better. I recall that the first time I fired her up the exhaust pressure was far from equal and there was a lot of popping.

If all goes well I’ll get my first ride in tomorrow morning. Shouldn’t have said that – I probably jinxed it.
 

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D-Mac said:
Oh yeah, I discovered that I forgot to turn off the petcock (it was facing down - that's "on" isn't it? and off is to the front? reserve is to the rear?). My right-side carb decided to dump a tank of gas onto the garage floor for me. A stuck float perhaps? I see serious carb work in my future.
down is on, forward off, back reserve, but maybe not a bad float, old metal on metal needle valve/seat in those carbs, you'll learn to shut off the gas :lol: , didn't see anything about cam chain adjustment?
 
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